Nafplio
Everything we read about Nafplio raves about it. If we had been here in the summer, I might have tagged it a tourist trap. Being here off season and during the week is magical. I'm trying to decide whether it bumps Dubrovnik down on my list of favorite small towns.
Nafplio has a very special setting to start with, by the sea, on a peninsula, on a hill, beneath a wall. The surrounding fortification makes it all the more surreal.
The old town is full of narrow streets with mix of Venetian and Ottoman buildings. For a town this size, we would have normally walked every street three times. Walking around here we are constantly coming across new streets that take us by surprise. I am convinced that Nafplio is growing streets on us in real time.
Above all, there are still enough local residents around to make it real. There are popular bus services, a huge twice-weekly (Wednesday and Saturday) market in one of the parks right outside the old town, and a school where children are heard playing.
Mycenea
Today's excursion took us to another 3000+-year old site, that of Mycenea. The highlight for me was the beehive style tomb. The whole site, the fort, the museum, and the tombs made me feel very humble, even as a Chinese. At the same time, I cannot help but wonder how can such a sophisticated people not achieve continuous civilization?!
The town of Nafplio has a seaside promenade on three sides. The southern side is below the Acronafplio cliffs with view of the sea and the Palamidi Fortress. The other sides face the harbour. Here are some shots from today's evening walk.
The Ottomans built several mosques in Nafplio that are now cultural centers. This fountain and several others date from that time.
And some shots from Mycenae.
Outside the tomb known as the Treasury of Atreus.
And inside.
And some shots of the Mycenae fortress.
A view of the fortress from below - it's on top of the lower hill.
Approaching Lion Gate.
The massive Lion Gate.
Grave Circle A.
There are 99 steps down into the fortress cistern. We stopped at the first turn - about 25 steps.
And last the view from the top of the fortress.
Everything we read about Nafplio raves about it. If we had been here in the summer, I might have tagged it a tourist trap. Being here off season and during the week is magical. I'm trying to decide whether it bumps Dubrovnik down on my list of favorite small towns.
Nafplio has a very special setting to start with, by the sea, on a peninsula, on a hill, beneath a wall. The surrounding fortification makes it all the more surreal.
The old town is full of narrow streets with mix of Venetian and Ottoman buildings. For a town this size, we would have normally walked every street three times. Walking around here we are constantly coming across new streets that take us by surprise. I am convinced that Nafplio is growing streets on us in real time.
Above all, there are still enough local residents around to make it real. There are popular bus services, a huge twice-weekly (Wednesday and Saturday) market in one of the parks right outside the old town, and a school where children are heard playing.
Mycenea
Today's excursion took us to another 3000+-year old site, that of Mycenea. The highlight for me was the beehive style tomb. The whole site, the fort, the museum, and the tombs made me feel very humble, even as a Chinese. At the same time, I cannot help but wonder how can such a sophisticated people not achieve continuous civilization?!
The town of Nafplio has a seaside promenade on three sides. The southern side is below the Acronafplio cliffs with view of the sea and the Palamidi Fortress. The other sides face the harbour. Here are some shots from today's evening walk.
The Ottomans built several mosques in Nafplio that are now cultural centers. This fountain and several others date from that time.
And some shots from Mycenae.
Outside the tomb known as the Treasury of Atreus.
And inside.
And some shots of the Mycenae fortress.
A view of the fortress from below - it's on top of the lower hill.
Approaching Lion Gate.
The massive Lion Gate.
Grave Circle A.
There are 99 steps down into the fortress cistern. We stopped at the first turn - about 25 steps.
And last the view from the top of the fortress.
I'm sure glad I have Google Maps to be able to follow your adventures. Sat view displays detail for the views in your photos.
ReplyDeleteNafplio looks very dense with streets.
Tx. Great post, great photos - you have me wanting to go back.
ReplyDeleteI'd vote for Nafplio over Dubrovnik, I think it gets fewer cruise ships.
Crash,
ReplyDeleteIt's an interesting street plan. Most blocks are just one building thick. That is, rows of buildings that front two parallel streets, or front three streets if on an end. Does that make sense?
-john
Cruise ships ruin everything. We were at both without any ship. I can only imagine....
ReplyDeleteYes, John, I understand your parallel street description. Can see that on GM.
ReplyDelete