Much changed Marrakech

Marrakech has changed a great deal since our last visit in 2000. Everything looks much spiffier. In 2000 we flew to Marrakech from Paris in a 747 charter with four Moroccans and 500 French vacationers on package tours who stayed in the new town. Then, there were few places in the old town that accommodated us backpackers. Nowadays just about every kind visitor from every corner of the world comes to Marrakech and there are like three million places to stay. In the old days, one had to watch out for the occasional donkey cart and pickpocket, nowadays you are constantly dogging scooters.

The biggest change has to be souvenirs. The whole old town is a giant bazaar. I want to declare that the total stock of retail souvenirs in Marrakesh is unrivaled in the world; except for maybe Bangkok?

The highlight of our Marrakech visit has to be our new Algerian friends. On the bus from Casablanca to Marrakesh we got talking to three academics in statistical economics from Algeria. Although divided from us by country, language, and religion, they seemed totally familiar and completely simpatico. The long time border conflict between Morocco and Algeria is ever so remote.

When we reached the Marrakech bus station, farewell and good wishes were exchanged. Less than three hours later, we strolled by a cafe where our new friends were drinking coffee [see photo below]. The second day, we walked into the same restaurant where they were having lunch. It seemed as if 1)we were following them 2)Marrakesh is a tiny village. Can anyone have more yuan?!

When I was studying Arabic on a rainy afternoon in Rabat, John joked about the possibility of getting on CIA radar. If our new friends land us on the CIA watchlist, that'll be highlight of the whole trip!

Altas Mountains seen while on the bus from Casablanca going south...


With our new friends from Algeria.


In Spain, they are called buñuelos, in Morocco sfenjs.


Storytellers, fortune tellers, and other entertainers on Jamaa el-Fna, the main square in Marrakech....We ignore the snake charmers and performing monkeys so no pics.






The minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque at night and day.




Veggie tajine.


Our guesthouse was in an interesting location; next to the Mouassine Mosque which is undergoing a full renovation. We had to walk under the scaffolding to get to the guesthouse door which, after many street pavings, is partially "below grade".




Included breakfast.


Tourists, souvenir vendors, donkey carts, scooters, and bikes crowd the streets around Jamaa el-Fna.








We visited the Bahia Palace, built in the 1860's.








And Dar Cherifa, built around 1500.


Feltmaker's souk.


Vegetarians who like salads will get along well in Morocco. Clockwide from top: green and black olives, Moroccan salad, Varied Salad. These 3 items are standard at Moroccan restaurants.


And more salads; this time we "to go" back to our rooftop terrace.




Restaurant Chez Rachid.


View from our guesthouse rooftop terrace towards Atlas Mountains. Not the greatest view, but peaceful.


And...