Finally Volterra

We wanted to and should have checked off Volterra when we went to San Gimignano two years ago. By John's measure, it is a hard place to get to.  Even though the rain has stopped, a hilltop at 540m, Volterra was bitterly cold and windy.  We braved the relative coolness of the spring for lesser crowds, but this bone chilling cold was more than I bargained for.  In fact this morning John and I both noticed that our phone batteries were going down at rates unseen before.

In Volterra, the setting for the "Twilight" vampire series books, we didn't hear any American spoken until we were leaving town.  Montepulciano, where the movie was filmed, had quite a few American visitors; it could also be because of their wine fame.  All the non-Italian visitors we saw were Germans, including a German team filming models.

The surrounding country of Volterra is very scenic, in the same league as the Orcia valley, but it was hazy, probably due to burning firewood and olive branch from spring trimming.  The town itself was not as photogenic.  Not that it matters to the town as they were the last Etruscan holdout against the Romans and fought bitterly against the rule of Florence during the 1400s; Volterra does not seem to embrace tourism at the same rate as its neighbors.  Conveniently, the Medici Fortresses built by their last conqueror is currently a maximum security prison, presumably good living for the town.

John adds: With the cold and windy conditions, I had my wind/rain pants on over my regular pants everytime we went outside; and I had my regular pants tucked into my socks to keep the wind out; plus 4 layers on my upper body with everything tucked in, pulled up and tightened. Not to mention my scarf.

Leaving Siena, we changed buses in Colle di Val d'Elsa. With 35 minutes between buses we were able to tour their piazza. Check out the wind blowing the water in the fountain.


On the bus to Volterra.


Saw a couple of these red rings on the ride. Reminds of the Gyre at NCMA.


The old Etruscan Gate of Volterra.


Piazza dei Priori


Walking around town.


There's a very good view of Volterra's Ancient Roman Theater.


We walked a few kilometers west to see the town cliffs. This part of the walk is along/atop the Etruscan City Walls.




This bike touring group was taking a break after climbing up to almost the top of Volterra.


We designed the walk to take us by CONAD supermarket to pick up some supplies. We had a superb 2nd floor apartment, four windows across and a kitchen.


Our apartment windows - all four!


And a kitchen with an oven means Sun-Ling makes pizza!


We head out of the city towards the Etruscan Tombs, passing first through Porta Fiorentina.


Then the Cemetery.


And finally through Porta Diana. The Etruscan City Walls enclosed twice the area of the current city.


Passing the city limits. ;-)


With some fine views to the landscape below.


A few of the tombs are right alongside the road.


There was a school group visiting the tombs as well.








Etruscan Tombs are way cool!....Finally, as we trudge back up to town through Porta Diana I shed my jacket for the only time while in Volterra.


The old Medici Fortress is now a maximum security prison.


Just a few more steps to get back to our apartment which was below the prison and above the Museo Etrusco.






The remnants of the Etruscan Acropolis are next to the prison.


Then back out for some sunset views on the promenade looking towards the Mediterranean which is about 20 miles to the west.












The under-reconstruction Duomo in the last light of the day.










And the sun goes down behind the windmills on the opposing ridge.


Some locals are strolling the town in the windy cold.