1. As soon as we got to Lima, I bought some generic Diamox at a pharmacy to help me acclimatize, given my poor past record. I started doping the last day in Lima.
2. The day before the hike we provisioned our lunch from no fewer than five vendors.
3. We walked all over the town trying to scope the route of the combi to maximize our chance of catching one.
We set out extra early in the morning. It was cloudy and started to sprinkle. I was NOT going to let a little rain derail my major adventure. We had no trouble catching a ride. However, by the time we got to Tarmatumbo, it was steady rain, thick and dark clouds. We tried to wait in the covered plaza, but eventually it got too cold. We caught another combi right back to Tarma. It was super anticlimactic.
We then became full converts of https://www.clima.com and our dueno also assured us it'll only rain until midday. We ended up picnicking in our room and then set out again, this time to Huasqui.
1. We ended up having a wonderful walk, ascending from 3450m to 3860m. Many parts of the trail, one can easily make out the retaining walls constructed by the Incas, including remnants of a stone bridge, after which signs of the ancient road disappeared, though ancient terracing is all around. I am now convinced if it weren't for the diseases brought by Europeans, Peru would be as populated as China.
2. Along the trail, there were all kinds of desert plants, which eased my guilt of hubris of the morning. No wonder I was thinking -- how much rain can they get here?!
3. The highlight had to be the picaflor gigantica, giant hummingbird (lat: patagona gigas), especially seeing all the depictions of hummingbirds in the alfombras.
Our attempt to walk from Tarmatambo to Huasqui, south to north, was rained out. Here's the view from Tarmatambo at 8:06 am.
Later in the morning the skies clear and we decide to walk north to south and are dropped off at noon at an unassuming lane in Huasqui, the beginning of this section of the Inca Trail.
The first kilometer is the steepest section and we soon have great views, this one back to Huasqui.
A mine of some kind, and above it, the switchbacks of the main Lima to Tarma road.
More flowers than expected.
Feeling good.
After 2 or 3 kms we get our first look at Tarma, at the far end of its fertile valley.
At this point the Inca Trail climbs slow and steady up to the pass at 3860 meters. Occasionally the trail is either overgrown with agave or in disarray so we walk on a path along side.
Sun-Ling spots the giant hummingbird flitting between two agave flower spikes. Wow!
The recent rain has brought some color to the high desert.
After walking 5kms, the top of the pass is in sight. It's a beautiful saddle with views in both directions. We stop for a rest and a snack=granadillas.
Then down thought a most colorful landscape to the old Inca Bridge.
Sun-Ling is pointing to old Inca terracing.
Sun-Ling is standing near the columns of the old bridge.
That's it for the Inca Trail, but we still have 4 or 5 kms downhill to Tarmatambo, a nice easy walk on a contemporary dirt road with the sun behind us and the Golden Hour approaching. Life is good.
Finally below the tree line.
And Tarma reappears from behind the mountain.
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