Ollantaytambo Revisited - Walk to Pumamarca

In 2011 we had to come to Ollantaytambo (2011 blog post here) because we couldn't take the train from Cusco to Machu Picchu. The section of tracks between Cusco and Ollantaytambo was still under extensive repair from damages in the rainy season. We worked really hard to learn to pronounce the name. It turned out we really liked Ollantaytambo.

This time we based ourselves in Ollantaytambo, in the same guesthouse, to do some more exploration. We were shocked when we got dropped off the square. The place was full of people, shops, and restaurants. The square we remembered had few goings on. The Ollantaytambo ruins we remembered had a handful of visitors, now visitors number in the hundred any time of the day. Yet I still find Oallantaytambo enchanting. Since most visitors do not sleep in town, the physical shaped has not changed significantly.There are the two squares as laid out during Inca time. Water still flows through the square and a number of the streets; the big Inca blocks of compounds and streets remain mostly intact.

We finally invested in a Boleto Turistico and built our Cusco and Sacred Valley itinerary around it, so we finally get to see what we missed the last time. The Oallantaytambo site is certainly every bit as impressive as Machu Picchu, if not more. Over the years we have concluded photogenic places become popular, but have no substance.

The other days we did two very scenic walks directly from town, one to the site of Pumamarca and one to the Inca quarries. We have the feeling this would not be our last visit to Ollantaytambo.

We head into a very dusty Cusco on the Abancay->Cusco bus.


But with a great view down to Cusco's famous Plaza de Armas (right) and Saqsaywaman ruins (left).


Once in Cusco we immediately transferred to a van to Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley.


The latest thing in accommodation in the Sacred Valley is cliff dwelling skylodging.


We stayed at the same Hotel as in 2011; Kuychipunku Hostal. The landlady says she remembers us.


Our room was an oasis admist the daytime chaos with a "courtyard to ruins" view.


Walking through the old Inca town on our way to Pumamarca.


The same street in April 2011.


First we follow the river upstream through the valley, then turn left into the terraces at the Media Luna sign.




The terraces look pretty normal from below.


Then reveal their half-moon (media luna) shape as we ascend.


Time for a break to admire the valley.








After the ascend it's a easy walk through more terraces, past a few cows, and along a burbling irrigation ditch to the base of the ruins.






And we pick up a companion.




There is a 10 sol fee to visit the ruins that can be seen at the top of the hill to the near left.




Time for lunch.




View up the valley.


Here, you can see the zigziging defensive walls of Pumamarca.


And as we head back it starts to rain.




We wait out the rain in a shelter near a POSH campsite.


And we end up walking in the rain most of the way back. Downhill.






We stop again at Media Luna. Beautiful.




Back in town we walk along Ollantaytambo's Philosopher's Walk with great views to the ruins on our right and the ancient Incan stones to our left..