Monday Fun in Cuenca

We begrudgingly went to Cuenca only because it is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The place is in the middle of nowhere and never seems to be on the way. It is a 100-euro 2-person daytrip from either Madrid or Valencia, which seems extravagant. John said we'd check it off our list this time so we would never have to agonize over whether/how to bag Cuenca ever again. In order to keep the trip under 100 euros, we had to make our train reservations a few weeks before. The evening before our trip I was furiously figuring out how we were going to kill 6 cold hours at an altitude of 1100m, because I expected Cuenca to be as exciting as Arcos de la Frontera which is just about the most underwhelming place we have been in all of Spain. Then it all changed after I came across a blog about going around to the viewpoints. Being suckers for miradors, I became excited about our Cuenca outing.

Cuenca is a hilltop town, surrounded by gorges on three sides. We went to Mirador del Cerro del Socorro, Mirador del Rey, and Mirador del Cuenca; that is, one mirador on each of the sides. Then we realized the waterways in the gorges are really beautiful and there are signs for walking routes all over the place, so we started to follow the water, and ended up walking all of SL-CU 10 – Ruta de las Hoces de Cuenca. And on the way back to the bus stop at the top of the town, we then checked off more viewpoints in the town. It turned out to be a super fun outing. Cuenca is far more scenic than Arcos, and even Ronda!

SL booked a hotel 8-minutes from Atocha Station (below, facade lit up) so the before dawn, chilly, downhill walk to catch the 6:45 am fast AVE train to Cuenca was a snap.



In less than an hour, our train covered the 187 kms to Cuenca Fernando Zóbel Station which is 8 kms from the Old Town Center. Bus line 1 makes the trip on the half-hour. So by 8:30 we were ready-to-get-moving in an empty Plaza Mayor.

The uphill walk to the mile-high Cristo at Mirador del Cerro del Socorro quickly warms us up, crossing the red bridge and passing the Parador de Cuenca resort and some rock climbing spots on the way. Once at the top there are awesome views down to town.

Coming back to town we cross Rio Heucar and walk uphill under the famous cliff houses. Then follow the Ruta upstream to the old Aqueduct and up to Mirador del Rey.

The view up the canyon reminds us of a smaller, green Grand Canyon.

And an awesome view of the Cathedral.

Back in town we walk down towards the Rio Jucar, passing a section of the old City Walls before heading up to Mirador del Cuenca.

And finally we take Ruta de las Hoces de Cuenca back up to the bus stop in front of the Cathedral. It's a very nice walk along the Rio Jucar and then the Rio Huecar.

Back at Plaza Mayor, the sun is out, and there is activity, though the word "lively" would not apply. Smile.

Just before the 3pm bus arrives we peep into the Cathedral for a look at their special Easter procession "platform" of the Last Supper, and bag a mirador with view of the Rio Jucar.

And for our railfan readers. Here are some short videos of the trip back to Madrid starting with our train pulling into Cuenca.