Catalunya: Fortuitous Festa Major de Lleida

We are finally in Catalunya. Lleida is another one of those places that sort of snuck into our itinerary, and gradually became a two-night stay. Are we glad! The night before our arrival we realized that Lleida was starting their Festa Major on our only full day in Lleida.

I have come to love Spanish festivals. While it is relatively easy to find the top tier festivals, finding smaller holidays is not so easy. We considered ourselves lucky that we ran into even one day of the Lleida Festival, and did not lament the other days we'd miss. We caught several acts at two different stages, saw the presentation of the new eagle gegants (giant puppets), and a sardana dance competition.

Without any doubt, the highlight had to be Correfoc. I could hardly believe our luck that they happened to do Correfoc on the one day we were in Lleida. We were able to catch Correfoc at various places along the route, arriving at the endpoint for a whole 30-minute program. This Correfoc had fire breathers too. It was super exciting and fun. I wish I had the right gear to frolic in the flames.

I loved Lleida. How could I not when they have such exciting Correfoc?! Having spent what seems like weeks in the provinces, Lleida had the feel of a real city. Maybe it's because the University of Lleida has been around since 1300. Having been the seat of a diocese since the 5th century, Lleida has an old cathedral up the hill and the new one down below. There were many cultural venues around town, modernismo buildings... We could have spent more time here.



Windmills seen on the bus from Tudela to Lleida.

As the bus arrives in Lleida and we get an awesome view through the window of the 12th century hilltop King's Castle and Old Cathedral.

Knowing that the Festa Major de Lleida is on, we checked into our hotel across the street from the train station (see view from our room window below), and headed toward city center, stopping at the main stage in Plaça de Sant Joan to listen to an all female brass band's sound check (2nd below).



And here's a very short video of their performance that evening.

At City Hall we checked out the line of Gegants, their "underground" archaeological sites, and ran into el alcalde (the mayor).





Several sardana dance circles outside City Hall. And a short video.

At the "second stage" we sat for some folk dancing and singing.

Short video.

The next day, we happen to again be in front of City Hall when the new Gegant, an eagle, is introduced with fanfare.



Lleida has some Modernismo / Art Nouveau buildings.

The CaxiaForum had an exhibition of Art Nouveau Advertising Posters. Bonus!

Ourselfies.

Near the old Mercado, there is an enormous underground cistern that is now a museum. Amazing.

Mercado (left) and mural (right).

After lunch we walked to the nearby Sardana Competition. Photo and Video.



Then over to the main stage in Plaça de Sant Joan....



...before heading up to Castillo del Rei (King's Castle) to see the Old Cathedral and watch the sunset. Getting up is easy using the elevator + bridge combo.







Sun-Lin's pano of The Cloister.

Some views of Lleida from the Castillo.





After sunset it's time for correfoc; that is, watching people dressed as devils run through the streets spinning fireworks at the end of poles (and pitchforks). Sun-Ling is always steady with her camera, advancing when others (like me) retreat. Video: Sun-Ling holds her ground.

The devils are followed by drummers.

Taking a break?

The run through the streets ends in front of a stage with a band, and a 30-minute program of devils, dragons, fireworks, and more.







The Grand Finale.

Aftermath.



More mayhem.

Dual fire breathers.

Dancing Dragon with Band and Fireworks.