Thursday, November 27, 2025

Brazil: Belo Horizonte

From Ouro Preto, we continued north to Belo Horizonte, the new capital of Mina Gerais. Founded in the 1890s as a planned city. Today it's Brazil's third largest metropolitan area, after Rio and Sao Paulo, among the largest cities in the world - I had never heard of it until I started trip planning.

On the ground, Belo Horizonte felt like it was full of streets, a perpendicular grid intersected with a diagonal grid. The city also seems to have quite a homeless problem, though may not be as bad as LA. At the same time, the city has many cultural ventures and museums it lavishes money on.

We made a pilgrimage to the Pampulha Complex, a leisure and culture center designed by Oscar Niemeyer; an initiative of then mayor Juscelino Kubitschek, later president, responsible for Brasilia. We took a BRT bus to Pampulha, but unknowingly got on an express "Directo" bus that went for 10km without stopping. Already fans of BRT, we were rather amazed.

Our first view of Below Horizonte was from the window of our long distance bus.
View to Belo Horizonte - On the Bus from Ouro Preto to Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

We passed some impressive 20th-century architecture on the walk from the bus stop to our hotel. And later, the Art Deco Minas Tennis Club (3rd below). Not to mention the Niemeyer Building (4th).
Formerly a Train Station, now the SESI Museu de Artes e Ofícios (Arts and Crafts Museum) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Cine Theatro Brasil - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

The Art Deco Minas Tennis Club - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Niemeyer Building (Edifício Niemeyer) Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Completed in 1960 - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

We ate pretty well in BH. Some deep-fried snacks at the Central Market (1st below). Vegetarian buffet at Yan Shan Zay Self-Service (2nd below).
Snacks at Mercado Central - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

We Eat Lunch at Yan Shan Zay  Self-Service Vegetarian Restaurant - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

The view at night from the rooftop terrace of our hotel.
Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Street scenes.
Day trip to Sabará from Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Photo Shoot - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

The Giramundo Puppets Exhibit at the Palácio das Artes was amazing!
(Giramundo Puppets Exhibition) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

(Giramundo Puppets Exhibition) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

(Giramundo Puppets Exhibition) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

(Giramundo Puppets Exhibition) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

We rode the BRT (1st below) to Pampulha, known for the striking blue and white, modernist buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the 1940's and 1950's. Second and third below are Casa do Baile. Designed by Niemeyer, it opened in 1943 as a restaurant and dance hall.
On the BRT Directo - Day Trip to Pampulha - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Casa do Baile (1943) - Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Casa do Baile (1943) - Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

We were lucky to get a tour of the Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club). The clubhouse is known for its shallow V-shaped roof. On the walls are paintings by Candido Portinari, often a collaborator of Niemeyer.
Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club) -  Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

"O Esporte" ("The Sport") (Left), and "War" (Right)  by Candido Portinari - Portinari Room - Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club) -  Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club) -  Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

"O Esporte" ("The Sport") by Candido Portinari - Portinari Room - Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club) -  Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Of course being a Yacht Club, it sits on Lake Pampulha, and there are views to the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Pampulha Museum of Art (MAP).
Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club) -  Designed by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha, Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Pampulha Museum of Art (MAP) - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Highlight: Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, designed by Niemeyer with art by Candido Portinari.
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi  - Designed (1943) by Oscar Niemeyer - Pampulha,  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

The Bruno Novelli Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula.
Bruno Novelli Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

The Grauben do Monte Lima Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula.
Grauben do Monte Lima Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

Black Nana (Upside down) - by Niki de Saint Phalle
"Nana noire Upside down" (Black Nana Upside down) - by Niki de Saint Phalle -  Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

(Ethereal Metal) by Olavo Machado Neto at the MM Gerdau (Museum of Mines and Metal)
"Metal Etéreo" (Ethereal Metal) by Olavo Machado Neto - MM Gerdau - Museum of Mines and Metal  - Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais,  Brazil

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