Brazil: Olinda

From Belo Horizonte we flew to Recife, the fourth-largest urban area in all of Brazil, but based ourselves in Olinda founded in 1535. Olinda was the original settlement and capital of the state. Like many of such places, once the seat of power was transferred, in this case to Recife, the place became a time capsule.

The Historic center of Olinda has colonial buildings among the oldest in Brazil, built by the sugar cane fortune. While the hill setting beside the sea is picturesque, the historic center does not bustle with residents or tourists, only the hilltop area is a big draw. The state of preservation is a little lacking by Minas Gerais standards, though it is apparent there has been ongoing work; in fact, Sao Bento was closed for restoration during our visit.

Great views of Recife, and the coast of Brazil as we descend for landing.






The breakfast at our guesthouse was amazing.




After breakfast we headed straight to Cathedral Hill (Alto da Sé ). First stop was the Convent and Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and its amazing blue and white Azulejos (Ceramic Tiles), imported from Portugal around 1660. First below is the view to the Pacific Ocean from the Convent.






The Sacristy, one of the most beautiful in all of Brazil.


The Stigmatization of St. Francis


Olinda is a popular tourist destination for Brazilians. On leaving St Francis, we were passed by a jeep tour.




The Cathedral.


The views from Cathedral Hill to Recife are amazing.




From Cathedral Hill we headed down to Rua do Amparo to pick up some groceries; then walked past some very colorful buildings on the way back to our guesthouse.




For a late lunch we had 2 very tasty lunch menu plates at Cozinha Divina Vegetarian Restaurant. Friendly folks there as well.


Some buildings around Olinda.




The Basilica and Monastery of St. Benedict is completely closed for restoration, but we were able to peek inside.




We ran into a wedding celebration procession at the bottom of Cathedral Hill in the late afternoon, then again at the top of the hill just before sunset where they were both taking a break and having a party. Congratulations to Jerome from Germany and Samara from Brazil who met in 2012! Be sure to watch the video (3rd below)










Two Sunset views.




Video: View to Recife from Olinda's Cathedral Hill.

Brazil: Belo Horizonte

From Ouro Preto, we continued north to Belo Horizonte, the new capital of Mina Gerais. Founded in the 1890s as a planned city. Today it's Brazil's third largest metropolitan area, after Rio and Sao Paulo, among the largest cities in the world - I had never heard of it until I started trip planning.

On the ground, Belo Horizonte felt like it was full of streets, a perpendicular grid intersected with a diagonal grid. The city also seems to have quite a homeless problem, though may not be as bad as LA. At the same time, the city has many cultural ventures and museums it lavishes money on.

We made a pilgrimage to the Pampulha Complex, a leisure and culture center designed by Oscar Niemeyer; an initiative of then mayor Juscelino Kubitschek, later president, responsible for Brasilia. We took a BRT bus to Pampulha, but unknowingly got on an express "Directo" bus that went for 10km without stopping. Already fans of BRT, we were rather amazed.

Our first view of Below Horizonte was from the window of our long distance bus.


We passed some impressive 20th-century architecture on the walk from the bus stop to our hotel. And later, the Art Deco Minas Tennis Club (3rd below). Not to mention the Niemeyer Building (4th).








We ate pretty well in BH. Some deep-fried snacks at the Central Market (1st below). Vegetarian buffet at Yan Shan Zay Self-Service (2nd below).




The view at night from the rooftop terrace of our hotel.


Street scenes.




The Giramundo Puppets Exhibit at the Palácio das Artes was amazing!








We rode the BRT (1st below) to Pampulha, known for the striking blue and white, modernist buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the 1940's and 1950's. Second and third below are Casa do Baile. Designed by Niemeyer, it opened in 1943 as a restaurant and dance hall.






We were lucky to get a tour of the Iate Tênis Clube (Yacht Tennis Club). The clubhouse is known for its shallow V-shaped roof. On the walls are paintings by Candido Portinari, often a collaborator of Niemeyer.








Of course being a Yacht Club, it sits on Lake Pampulha, and there are views to the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Pampulha Museum of Art (MAP).






Highlight: Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, designed by Niemeyer with art by Candido Portinari.




















The Bruno Novelli Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula.


The Grauben do Monte Lima Exhibition - Museu Inimá de Paula.


Black Nana (Upside down) - by Niki de Saint Phalle


(Ethereal Metal) by Olavo Machado Neto at the MM Gerdau (Museum of Mines and Metal)