Kanchanaburi - The Bridge on the River Kwai

Kanchanaburi, although unknown by us until planing this trip, has lots going for it tourism wise. It's just a few hours from Bangkok (day trippers yeh) and is located on the banks off the scenic River Kwai. Yes, that River Kwai. It is the actual location of the bridge made famous in the Oscar winning (8 awards) movie The Bridge on the River Kwai.

WWII history buffs can visit the original Bridge on the River Kwai, (the movie was filmed in Sri Lanka), plus Hellfire Pass, and various the WWII museums and cemeteries in town.

Backpackers can hang out on Maenamkwai Road which has all the amenities: people watching from sidewalk bars and restaurants (some riverfront), cold beer at a reasonable price, cheap laundries, hostels and hotels with English-speaking staff, excursions to waterfalls, Thai Massage, haggling with moto-taxis, bicycle and motorbike rentals, Thai food, Western breakfasts, a 7-11, and a vegetarian restaurant. It's a scene for sure. We kinda liked it.

Thai also come to visit waterfalls, the famous bridge, temples, eat seafood at floating restaurants, and spend an afternoon or evening partying on a karaoke barge.

We found a hotel with a swimming pool, spent one day seeing the "in town" sites and another day excurting on the "Death Railroad" to Nam Tok - a spiffy narrow gauge train. Not to mention eating at On's Thai Issan Vegetarian Vegan Restaurant where "Mrs On is never off" . Seriously, she's ranked #1 out of 192 restaurants in town.

The famous Bridge on the River Kwai was just 1km from our hotel. This shot is from the tourist viewing area.


In addition, metal plates are placed on and along the ties on the bridge along with a railing so one can safely walk on and across the bridge which we did.


View from the other side.


Walking back to town on the far side of the river we spotted these long-eared cattle.


The WWII cemetery in town center is beautiful, well tended, and contains graves of Dutch and English POWs who died working on the Death Railway.


Also in town center are a Chinese cemetery and several Buddhist Temples.




We ate at 4 different vegetarian restaurants in Kanchanaburi. This one near the bus station is run by a young couple and closes at noon.




And this nice lady operated a vegetarian papaya salad som tam food cart.




And of course On's. Mrs. On seemed to know everyone in town, including tourists. Hers is a one burner, open-air kitchen joint, with indoor or outdoor seating. She also has several seasoned staff who help with prep, serving, etc.




Each evening we ordered a soup, a curry, and a stir fry.






Our 2nd day we rode the 6:10 train, No. 485, from the Kwai River Bridge station to Nam Tok - 3 hrs. On board with us were several friendly, lively groups of high school students from Bangkok.

Ticket booth at dawn.


The train pulls into the station.


The students were very excited to cross the Kwai River Bridge. Lots of photos.


Fields at dawn.


One long section of rail is undergoing improvements.






From Nam Tok.


For breakfast, we ate duck eggs bought fresh the day before and hard boiled in our electric kettle. Translucent.


Sugarcane seen from the train.


Plus farming.


Another highlight was crossing the Wampo Viaduct, a well-known landmark on the Thai-Burma Railway.






The Sai Yok waterfall is just a 1km walk from the Nam Tok Station.


Buying more duck eggs. ;-)

Up the Malay Penisula

Finally, after 6 nights in Penang, it's time to ferry over to Butterworth and hop on Train No. 36 and head up the Malay Peninsula to Bangkok. However, we could not warm up to the idea of returning, for the 3rd time in 13 years, to Bangkok so we decided the night before departure to get off the train at Nakhon Pathom (60 kms west of Bangkok), and take a train directly to Kanchanaburi (90 kms further west).

Our connecting bus + ferry ride is smooth and then Train 36 pulls out on time from Butterworth Station at 2pm with expected arrival in Bangkok the next morning at 11:40 am but we will alight at Nakhon Pathom at 9:30 am.


This is the seat configuration before they are turned into sleeping berths.




After a few hours we stop at the Malaysia-Thailand border where the formalities are painless; however, we sit at the border for an additional 3 hours waiting for the Thai engine to appear. The Malay loco that brought us here goes no farther.

No dining car, no problem. We use our electric kettle to boil water and it's instant noodles for dinner.


The transformation from seats to berths.


Sun-Ling takes the upper.


To see how the seats are converted to berths watch this youtube video (not my video).

Morning coffee on the train. Life is good.


Sea view. That's Nigel and wife across the aisle.


And plenty of time to study Rough Guides info on Kanchanaburi as the train is 4 hours late; which is a nice bonus if one likes riding the train as we do.


The Phra Pathom Chedi (Pagoda) is adjacent to the Nakhon Pathom station. Perfect timing for us as we pulled in at 2 pm and our onward train leaves at 3:03 pm.


Sweltering in the almost 100-degree heat on the 3rd class train to Kanchanaburi.


It's sugarcane harvest time.


And after 30 hours on two trains we are rewarded with the tastiest vegetarian meal so far this trip and a hotel with a pool.

Back on the Train

And it's back on the train from Zhaotong, Yunnan to Yibin, Sichuan; one of those slow trains which stops often on the single-tracked line to let faster passenger and freight trains pass. After we complained about a group of smokers, the conductor led us to an empty car at the far end of the train. Cool. Quiet is good as John was up in the middle of the previous night with "stomach troubles".

A few folks came on the car at the first stop; Zhaotong North. They had bought apples and chicks in Zhaotong and were taking them home. A few hours later the car was taken over by a large group returning from an outing. They shouted and scurried to put their unfrozen, just purchased sacks of meat next to open windows, then somewhat settled down to the usual pastimes: sleeping, playing cards, and eating sunflower seeds, punctuated by occasional shouting. You are never alone for long in China. Haha.

Located at the confluence of major rivers and with a busy downtown right where the rivers meet, Yibin reminded me of Pittsburgh, PA and Chongqinq, China. One day we walked around the city center checking out the temples, churches, old guild halls, and the rivers. The Art Deco Clock Tower, built in 1938 is one of the most impressive Art Deco monuments we've ever seen. Wow!

The next day we day-tripped 20 kms downriver by bus to Li Zhuang Ancient Town, famous for its distilled liquor and old quarter. Also Shanghai's Tongji University relocated here from 1940 to 1946 during the Japanese occupation of Eastern China. Judging from the number of restaurants and snack stalls and souvenir shops, Li Zhuang must get many tourists on holidays, but not the day we were there.

The empty car.


Chicks in the square boxes and apples in the baskets.


Heading to Sichuan.


The Jinsha River in Yibin.


The confluence of the Min River (left - clear) and the Jinsha River (right- brown) to form the Yangtze.


Facade of one of the Catholic Churches with mosaic tile work that is also seen on Guild Halls and Buddhist temples in this area.


The other Catholic Church. Btw, both Catholic churches were "open" when we walked by as are most Catholic churches around the world, but rarely in China.


The Art Deco Clock tower - 1938.


Rain ready moto-taxis.


Li Zhuang photos:

Card game in an old Li Zhuang courtyard.


Guild Hall Stage.


A vat at a distillery. I had a taste of the finished product - smooth!


Temple cupola with mosaic tiles.


Old Town - Li Zhuang


Blooming turnips on both sides of the Yangtze River at Li Zhuang


Octagonal Pavilion outside Li Zhuang.