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Showing posts with label ecuador. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ecuador. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 08, 2010

Revelation on cemeteries

It seems to me that we are always visiting cemeteries on this trip. John and I both come from families big on cemetery visits and during our previous travels we had toured various cemeteries. It had never bother me. In fact I find cemeteries tranquil and spiritual. That is until this trip. Why? The cemeteries on this trip all have above-ground vaults occupying the same air as I do. Way too much spiritualness for me.

Today we went to the archeological site of "Ventanillas de Otuzco" (300-800 AD), a prehistoric burial site, just outside Cajamarca. I was looking in the face of the source of all my heebie-jeebies.

John commented that the modern cemeteries in South America look a lot like this prehistoric one. What do you think?

Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador
Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador

Cementerio - Mompox, Colombia
Cementario - Mompox, Colombia

Cementerio San Gabriel - Quito, Ecuador
Cementerio - Quito, Ecuador

Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador
P1040537

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Thursday, December 02, 2010

A Journey: Ecuador - Peru border crossing

For our route, the Zumba-La Balsa crossing is most direct of the three overland crossings between Ecaudor and Peru. It's the most scenic but supposedly the most difficult journey (the border formalities here are considered "easy" on both sides). We gave ourselves three days instead of the normal two for everyone else that seems to be on this amazing race. We had read and heard first hand harrowing reports of unpaved roads, landslides, greedy transports, and dangerous towns. I made myself a chart (below is an updated version). I had this picture in my head of someone pushing me over with my backpack on and running away with my money belt – my definition of a dangerous town.
Segment Transport mode Time Cost Notes
Vilcabamba - Zumba Bus 6 hours $6.5pp Overnighted in Zumba
Zumba - La Balsa Ranchera 1.5 hours $1.75pp
La Balsa - San Ignacio Squished shared taxi 1.5 hours S/12pp
San Ignacio - Jaen Minibus 3+ hours S/12pp Overnighted in Jaen
Jaen between terminals Moto rickshaw 10 minutes S/1.5 Road work
Jaen - Bagua Grande Shared taxi 1.25 hours S/9pp Road work
Bagua Grande - Chachapoyas Shared taxi 3 hours S/22pp Road work

As usual, things turned out to be as easy as pie, except
  1. The road on Ecuador side is worse Peru. In fact, at the rate that we suffered from road construction work delays in Peru, in the very near future it will be full fledged highway.

  2. The ranchera ride was an experience. It was physically demanding. We had to work hard to stay on the bench, not fall to the floor or out of the truck, which was really regretful as there was no chance of photographing morning mist over the mountains. On the graveled switchbacks the ranchera was what I remember a roller-coaster to be minus the upside down part. There was so much jostling that our netbook did not turn on that evening.

  3. Coming from Ecuador, the transportation cost in Peru seemed very high. We kept suspecting that we were quoted Gringo prices, but each time we watched fellow passengers pay exactly the same amount.

  4. We were told Jaen was a dangerous town and spent endless time researching and contemplating whether to overnight there. It turned out to be a perfectly safe and friendly place. Our only regret was not to have taken a cooler and air-conditioned room. There were more moto rickshaws than pedestrians in town which may freak some people out.

It is a tremendously scenic journey through varied landscape. We are so glad that we came that way!

The church in Zumba. P1070733

The Zumba to La Balsa ranchera as it was loading. P1070734

The main Plaza in Jaen, Peru as seen from our hotel room. P1070735

Unedited video of part of the moto-taxi ride from our hotel to the Bagua Grande colectivo stand.



Stopped due to road work on the road from Jaen to Bagua Grande. P1070736

Stopped due to road work on the road from Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas.

P1070737

And finally installed in a big hotel room in Hostal Amazonas in Chachapoyas. P1070738

Monday, November 29, 2010

We are interned

Vilcabamba is our final destination in Ecuador. We had planned to start going into Peru today (November 28, 2010), but when we got here, we were told that we will not be able to travel on Sunday because of the census. I was not surprised as I had read in the paper a couple weeks ago that they planed to count foreigners and that foreigners have to stay in place that day, or something to that effect, with my limited Spanish comprehension....

So we immediately started doing research. It turns the whole country was to being shutdown today 7:00 to 17:00. This means borders are closed; all businesses are closed including churches, but not hospitals; there are no buses or domestic flights. Only census workers are allowed on the streets. Consumption of alcohol is suspended starting Friday evening. We are to remain in the hotel for the duration. The hotel restaurant is allowed to serve guests. All these seemed really drastic for us. John and I stocked up on food and water and lined up trip search work and blogging to keep ourselves busy. Actually our hotel is not a bad to be interned: internet, restaurant, garden, pool....

We had a relaxing yet productive day, exchanged travel info as well as money with other interned guests, kept ahead of trip research, and logged extra blog entries. All these are very good as we are heading into fairly remote areas for the Ecuador-Peru border crossing, i.e. no internet.

5 o'clock came. There had not been a single census worker to visit our hotel. How anticlimactical! Nevertheless, we all streamed out of the hotel just after 5, traveling onto the next destination or just out for a stroll and dinner. Freedom regained!

John sunning by the hotel pool.
Hotel Pool - Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Encounters with dogs

When I was growing up in Shanghai, no dogs were allowed in the city. So when I landed in suburbia USA at sixteen, I was afraid of dogs. Over the year I have mostly overcome my fear, but my general approach to dogs is avoidance. Nevertheless they seem to find me. This past week I hit both the lowlight and highlight of my encounters with dogs.

Lowlight: I was bitten by a dog

When we were walking back from the mirador in Cuenca, we decided to take a shortcut where the road does a big switchback. Half way down, there was this ferocious bark from a house about 100 yards away. In a flash the dog flew behind us on the path where I was walking behind John. We kept walking at the same pace making no eye contact. The dog kept barking, leapt up and bit me on the back of my right thigh. Then he ran to the front of us and let out some more threatening barks. Then it is was over. We were both shook up and upset. I didn't dare slow down and let John look at the bite until the path connected with the road again. Now I have a bruise and scab about half-inch long and the hole in my pants is still waiting to be mended. Mentally we are getting over it. Since we had talked about getting rabies vaccination but never did, we joke about me turning rabid and biting John.

Highlight: We had our own dog for half a day

The first full day in Vilcabamba we decided to go for a walk in the country. As we headed out of town, I was busying popping into store for picnic material. John drew my attention to a dog and declared that the dog is coming for a walk with us. If it had not happened in Salento, Colombia, I would have thought it was another one of his far-fetched predictions. Nevertheless, I was skeptical. But as the town was being left behind by us, the dog kept up with us.

Thirty minutes later, as we exchanged greetings with a young woman that came the opposite direction, she asked if the dog was ours while she rubbed the dog's ears and showered him with affection. We explained the situation. It turned out that she is American, so the three of us stood chatting a bit. When we parted, there was a doubt which way the dog was going to go. He chose us. I think purely because we are a bigger pack.

So the three of us walked on. The dog would run ahead of us. When we were taking too long, he ran back to check on us, so it was very easy to get him in a photo. When we stopped for our picnic, he looked at us hopeful. We shared our food. He took it matter-of-factly.

Then half way back to town we spotted another pack of two women and a child walking ahead in the same direction. It looked like our dog was switching for the bigger pack. But two minutes later, the other pack got in a shared taxi. Our dog was right back with us again.

He was getting tired now. Whenever we had a holdup, instead of running back to check on us, he just sat on the sidewalk and waited for us. John was very impressed with ourselves -- we wore out a dog. The dog followed us all the way back to town where we started to pop into restaurants to check on menus and we lost track of him. I was relieved that he did not try to follow us all the way to our guesthouse, where two enormous German Shepherds claim territory.

Our dog for the day.
John and "our dog" - Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Our dog for the day - Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Not to mention the 2 burros that followed us the next day; but they were only trying to sneak through a gate and escape.

Rumi-Wilco - Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Musings on coups & political instability

Three weeks before we were to enter Ecuador there was a mini or pseudo coup in Ecuador. Borders and airports were closed for one day. Yet one month after that we were taking a free tour of the Presidential Palace in Quito in all its glory. All it took was our passports.

Sun-Ling chats with our tour guide on the balcony of the Presidential Palace in Quito, Ecuador, where at the same spot one month earlier, President Correa had addressed a cheering crowd after thwarting an attempted coup.
Balcony - Presidential Palace - Quito, Ecuador

The two of us near the end of our tour of the Presidential Palace.

Presidential Palace - Quito, Ecuador

We happened to have our passports that day because we had to gone to get our yellow fever shots at a public health clinic. The shots are required for a Bolivian visa and they cost $100+ in the US. We had expected to save some money in Quito, but were amazed that they were completely free foreigners and citizens alike. BTW, they were giving tetanus shots for free too.

Why is there such political instability in a civilized society that gives free vaccinations for all? Ecuador and especially Colombia have far exceeded my expectations. They are nothing like the developing countries in Asia that we are used to. People here are polite and have respect for each other. Children go to school and do not beg. We constantly come across civic parades. Students have hunger strikes for international justice. The public transportation systems are efficient and affordable. I could go on and on. It is mind boggling to me why anyone would want to disrupt instead of advancing such civilized societies -- power hungry men. (:

Diabetes Awareness Parade - Latacunga, Ecuador
Independence Day Parade - Latacunga, Ecuador

Cuenca - Parade with Igelsias de San Blas in background.
Parade - Cuenca, Ecuador

Friday, November 26, 2010

Loja is very pleasant

At 7000ft (2100m) Loja, Ecuador is hot by day, cool by night, and dry. It is not on the typical gringo trail and it looks to be nice city to live in. Parks, public transportation, and cool architecture really sell a city to us.

But the highlight is the orchid garden at the Reynaldo Espinoza Botanical Garden. A lot of the flowers are small and not so brilliantly colored. I suspect they are native, not hybrids. And it is completely outside, not in a greenhouse. I had a lot of fun going around spotting flowers, pretending I was on an "orchid safari" as I had recently learned that there are tours to see orchids in situ in the forest.

Various orchids at the Reynaldo Espinoza Botanical Garden.

Reynaldo Espinoza Botanical Garden - Loja, Ecuador

Reynaldo Espinoza Botanical Garden - Loja, Ecuador

Reynaldo Espinoza Botanical Garden - Loja, Ecuador

Eduardo Dega tiles ring this fuente (fountain) in Parque de la Independencia.
Fuente - Parque de la Independencia - Loja, Ecuador

A couple of buses pulling up to an enclosed stop which is part of Loja's mass transit system called Situ (Sistema Integrado de Transporte Urbano). The right-hand lane is dedicated to Situ buses.


The stations are at the level of the bus floor, so you can step right on to the bus through the wide, mid-bus doors.

Sistema Integrado de Transporte Urbano - Loja, Ecuador

Restored Colonial buildings at the corner of Lourdes and Bolivar.

Colonial Buildings - Loja, Ecuador

The outstanding Art Deco Provincial Government Building.

Provincial Government Building - Loja, Ecuador

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

I have a new hat

Panama hats are historically made in the greater Cuenca, Ecuador area. As they were worn by workers for the Panama Canal, the name was forever stuck. I had always loved them and used to buy one after another from REI until they stopped carrying them. I was very happy to be able to acquire a new hat so close to the source. [Hat was actually bought in Chordeleg, a town about 40 kms east of Cuenca.]

Sun-Ling's new Panama Hat as seen at the Mirador Turi above Cuenca.
Sun-Ling's new Panama hat - Cuenca, Ecuador

Sun-Ling checks out a hat at the Hat Workshop and Museum in Cuenca.
Hat Workshop and Museum - Cuenca,  Ecuador

More photos of Cuenca and surrounds.

20th century modern Art Deco architecture in Cuenca with parade in foreground.

P1070390

Same parade looking down Calle Simon Bolivar to Igelsias San Blas.
Parade - Cuenca, Ecuador

Another Art Deco (or Tropical Deco) building in Cuenca.
P1070395

The iconic tile domes of the Catedral Nueva in Cuenca.
P1070417

Colonial building with bus - Cuenca.
Building with Bus - Cuenca, Ecuador

A building in Sigsig - about 60 kms east of Cuenca.
Sigsig, Ecuador


Main Parque in Sigsig with contemporary statues.

P1070412

Mercado - Chordeleg, Ecuador - about 30 kms east of Cuenca. Sun-Ling bought her new Panama Hat in Chordeleg at a shop on the main square.
P1070408

Animal Market - Gualaceo, Ecuador - about 35 kms east of Cuenca.
P1070406

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Volcanos from Riobamba

When we got up on the morning that we were leaving Riobamba, the sky towards Chimborazo looked clear. We bolted out of our hotel room and mounted the mirador for the fifth time. Chimborazo was magnificent. After all the rain we had, Tungurahua (we know it from Banos) is now also topped with snow. A third peak can be clearly seen - it's El Altar. What a finale before we leave the Avenue of the Volcanoes!"

Chimborazo

Chimborazo - Riobamba, Ecuador

Tungurahua
Tungurahua -  Riobamba, Ecuador

El Altar
Volcano El Altar - Riobamba, Ecuadro

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Guamote was not anticlimactic

Because of our Galapagos schedule and Difuntos holidays, we extended our stay in Ecuador by a week in order to catch a few major markets, Guamote being the final one. The last few days in Riobamba I had plenty of time for contemplation, I was beginning to have doubts....

On the morning of market day, we headed towards the bus stop. Half way there we spotted a bus being loaded with ropes and crates. We immediately realized that the bus was taking vendors to the Guamote market. Without any hesitation we quickly got on the bus -- we were already at market. During the entire ride, a lady in our row was making bridles with rings and ropes.

Once we watched our bus being unloaded by porters and bicycle carts, we made our usual rounds. There was so much hustle and bustle, and even though it rained on and off, people barely seem to notice. What makes the Guamote market so special was
  • Guamote is a small town. On market day the whole town is literally one big market. Every inch of the town is occupied by stalls, vehicles, or people partaking in the market.
  • The local indigenous people wear costumes in vibrant hues, men and women, making the the market exceedingly colorful.
  • There are a LOT of large animals at market. By my calculation every animal in Ecuador would have to be at market every other week. Of course, that cannot be the case!
Unedited video of the bus unloading.


The market surrounds the train station making it difficult for the train - a bus body on wheels - to get through.
Train Station - Guamote, Ecuador

Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

Various photos from the pig market.

Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

Wet, "for sale", alpacas.

Alpacas - Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

One portion of the "big cattle" market.
Thursday Market - Guamote, Ecuador

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