Cyprus: Surreal Famagusta/Gazimagusa

Another day trip from Nicosia to the north was to Famagusta. At first we had ambitions of visiting the archeological site of Salamis from Famagusta. Once we figured out the bus schedule, we decided against going. We ended up having a most unusual day in Famagusta.

Famagusta is another port city with its Venetian walls that withstood the Ottomans for 11 months in 1570. All the walls are very much intact today, though the town itself stands among ruins. The main square is around the ruined Venetian Palace. The mosque is a skinny minaret attached to the 13th century Gothic Church (right out of France), or whatever is left. Around the city there are over a dozen churches, of every different sect of christianity,, in various states of ruiness, on regular streets with houses, schools, businesses. It was bizarre. 

Things got even more bizarre when we walked south to see the ghost town of Varosha. Until the 1974 conflict, half of all tourists to the island came to this area. Today most of the zone is fenced off with barbed wire, guarded by armed soldiers, warning signs of no photos. The hundreds of buildings have stood empty for almost 50 years. Right around them, life goes on, shops, restaurants, hotels....

On the bus from north Nicosia to Famagusta.




The Land Gate of the Venetian City Walls.


The Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque (Formerly Saint Sophia). Notice the minaret at left "plopped" on an uncompleted church tower. All Christian images have been removed from the interior but it still looks like a French church, no?






View of the Venetian Walls from the Sea Gate


Some ruined churches around town. The first two photos below are of the ruins of Church of St. George of the Greeks (Orthodox).








The so-called 13th-century "Twin Crusaders Churches"; now, De Molay Bar.


We are outside the city walls and headed towards the beach and Varosha.


We make our way past war-damaged buildings, LOVE MAGUSA giant letters, barbed wire, and around checkpoints to the beautiful beach.










And finally we are stopped by a fence. Is that Varosha?

Cyprus: Busy Girne/Kyrenia

From Nicosia we made a day trip to Girne/Kyrenia. We had to first cross the border and exchange euros for some Turkish Lira. The buses to Girne leave right outside the Kyrenia gate. This day trip was super easy.

I had known that Girne/Kyrenia is the number one tourist destination in the north of Cyprus. I was still surprised to find the bustle this time of the year. While the Girne Castle occupied us for some time, I don't understand the particular appeal. There must be some nice beaches nearby. It could be the +1000 masl mountain range right behind the town. Most likely it's because Girne is the closest coastal town from the capital, Nicosia.

Our first view from the bus of Girne.


After looking for a snack we walked along the waterfront to the Castle.




View of the harbor - closed to the public for improvements - from the Castle.


More photos from the Castle, its ramparts and towers, courtyard, dungeons, and the several exhibits within.












View to the east from the Castle.

Cyprus - Rain in the Troodos Mountains

From Limassol, we headed up the Troodos Mountains, topped by Mount Olympus at almost 2000 masl. We had terrible weather; cold, rain, and bad visibility.

The first night we based ourselves in Troodos village (1750 masl). We walked the Artemis trail the first afternoon, no rain, but in the clouds most of the time. The next morning we walked the parallel road to the Persephone trail, in cold rain, but turned around after we glimpsed the jewel-like Asbestos Lake in the distance.

The second night we based ourselves in the village of Kakopetria.(650masl). Kakopetria is a scenic village with some traditional buildings and several streams rushing through. We spent the afternoon and next morning walking to two UNESCO painted churches. The frescoes are rather ordinary but not a waste of time. No photos allowed, but they don't charge admission either.

The bus ride from Limassol at sea level to mile-high Troodos Square started with a walk to the bus station. Then up, up and into the black pine forest.






After checking in at our hotel we immediately set off walking to the Artemis Trail trailhead. This 7-km trail circles the summit of Mount Olympus.


There is an awesome viewpoint on the way to the trailhead.




The Artemis trial hike was awesome even though the wind was whistling and the clouds rolling in. We made some new friends, Eitan and Einat, from Israel.










A tremendous breakfast the next morning at the Troodos Hotel.


Then a short walk in the rain to stretch our legs before riding the bus to Kakopetria. Look for Asbestos Lake in the photo (3rd) below.






Sun-Ling walking (uphill) to our BnB in Kakopetria Old City.


After checking in we made a beeline down the waterside trail to Galata; stepping inside the the modern Church of the Virgin Mary Hodegetria for a look, before walking down to the UNESCO World Heritage listed Panagia tis Podithou Church and its 15th-century frescoes - no photography allowed inside the church.








And walked back home in the rain through the Old City.


The next morning, after a filling buffet breakfast (with Cypriot coffee), we walked up, up, up, to Church of St. Nicholas of the Roof with some great views back to the Old City - no photography allowed inside the church.






A last look at the Old City before we head back to the BnB, pick up our bags, and walk to the bus stop to catch the bus to Nicosia.