Trip on / Trip Off

We were going to travel in Europe for 2 months: itinerary finalized, some plane and train tickets bought, a few hotels booked, and rendezvous with friends planned. As the days counted down towards our March 22 departure we ate down the fridge and pantry, pre-packed our bags in order to replace, repair, and refill as needed, and dutifully completed items on the now very familiar Long Trip Todo List. However...

Beginning March 1st, with the spread of the COVID-19 virus, the likelihood of us actually traveling diminished day by day, while the number of friends and family asking "Is your trip still on?" grew. By March 10 our response to said question was that we were prepared for any outcome. And we truly were. So when our flight from Raleigh to London was cancelled on March 12 we were not disappointed or sad, nor relieved. The 50/50 had simply become inevitable.

The trip is off. Our travel gear has been neatly stowed away; the fridge and pantry finally restocked this morning. Therefore we'll be home and can spend more time with friends, neighbors and family, jam with my music buddies, travel in the US to... Oh wait. Self-Isolation.

I write this post just after applying online for a refund for our cancelled flights. We bought the tix from Finnair which included codeshares from American Airlines and British Airways. The Finnair website says it may take months to process the refund. I'll report back.

Yesterday, I went to the SNCF (French Railways) website and in 10 minutes processed full refunds for one pair of normally nonrefundable tickets, and another pair of normally mostly refundable tickets. SNCF said the refunds will appear on my credit card in 3 days or less, and in fact just showed up as "pending" on my account. Wow!

I've come to the final paragraph of this post where I should "connect back to the introduction and provide a sense of closure". Hmmmm. I'll try. Although the trip is off we're not bummed. We'll continue to improve our French language comprehension by watching French movies and practicing yoga to French yoga videos. Also, it's a perfect time to plan and complete some around-the-house projects. And we're headed to Asia and Australia next fall and winter. Time to start planning?

Arequipa Revisited

In 2010 we stayed in Arequipa for one week at the Los Andes Bed & Breakfast. This time we walked into Los Andes without a reservation. "I'm sorry but we are full" said the man at reception, the same man who had checked us in in the middle of the night in 2010. We had a pleasant conversation, then went next door, ie, can see the Los Andes wi-fi signal, to Mango Hostel B&B.

In 2020 we have just one night in Arequipa, not 2 or 3 as originally planned, having used extra days for the festival in Chivay. Just enough time to walk around the Plaza and do some shopping as there's still some empty space in my bag.

I sat in the front seat of the collectivo van on the road from Chivay to Arequipa.


A view of Misti, the volcano that looms over Arequipa.


Lots of trucks headed to and from the mines.




Spiffy blue locomotives and gray ore cars, headed to/from the mines.


We arrived in Arequipa on Dec 8; the city center is decorated and lit up for Christmas.








The full moon behind the church steeple.


The next day, we made a stop at Mercado San Camilo and had lunch at Omphalos vegetarian restaurant before heading to the airport.







So long Peru. We'll be back. Hasta luego Perú. Estaremos de vuelta.

Accidental Chivay

While in Cabanaconde I realized that the Inmaculada festival in the department of Arequipa takes place in Chivay of the province of Caylloma, not in the province of Arequipa.Terrible job on my part! Since Colca Canyon was even more underwhelming than we had expected, we decided to leave Cabanaconde to wait for the festival in Chivay, a transfer point that we had not planned to overnight at all. Are we glad! There is so much more than canyons and condors to Colca. Right from the window of our guesthouse, we can see volcano ??? sending up plumes all day.

Chivay, to the east of the canyon, is in the Colca Valley. While we found Colca Canyon lacking, we loved the terraces in the Colca Valley. We particularly enjoyed a walk from Coporaque to Yanque in the Valley, among the ancient terraces that are still cultivated.

Chivay is also known for the "intangible" UNESCO dance of Wititi, guys and girls sport the same long skirts! We only caught a short session, as we had to move onto Arequipa to catch our return flight. The part of Inmaculada we did catch seemed traditional and authentic.

As much as they promote tourism, the area still seem fairly authentic, lots of colorful costumes, friendly towns people.We even found a kind bike mechanic that finally was able to pull apart John's unretractable hiking pole.

More stunning views of Colca Valley on the bus back to Chivay.


We took a room at the Colca Andina Inn located on the pedestrian street with a super friendly staff and a rooftop terrace where breakfast is served.




Volcano view from the Andina's terrace.


After strolling around the compact city center we walked across the Puente Inca and back, had some great views, and Sun-Ling made friends, sort of, with an alpaca.






The Iglesia is decorated for the Fiesta Inmaculada with the image of the Virgen in a position of honor.


The next morning, Sabancaya Volcano was smoking. We walked upriver to the thermal baths and back.




Me with the bike mechanic who unstuck my hiking pole.


That night the fountains were lit and there was dancing in the streets.


Wititi dancers. The 3 dancers with blue & red sashes, and one hand in the air are men.








The next morning we took a collectivo van to the town of Corporaque, about 10kms west, and walked to Yanque, then returned to Chvivay by collectivo. Awesome valley and volcano views. Here's the Iglesia in Corporaque.


The walk is a well signed, well trodden path all the way.


View back to Corporaque with Chivay way in the distance.


We pass some tombs (with skulls).


We see Yanque below on the other side of the valley.




Looking down to the Colca River and mirador.


Towards Sababcaya volcano group.


The ancient terraces across the valley from Yanque are still farmed today.




The post-Incan village of Uyo-Uyo has been abandoned.






We pick up our pace after spotting a dark cloud above Yanque.


And cross the river on a new-ish orange bridge.




The Yanque Iglesia.


Back in Chivay, the arches and altars for the festival are going up around the Plaza.










15-second video of an arch going up. Link here.


Folks waiting to put their "plaques" on the Urinsaya altar.




While seated elders look on.




This guy is going to pour some alcohol into a post hole - as an offering?




The work on the arched and altars continued into the evening.


There was a flurry of activity in the church.


And a pile of truckload of logs and brush was unloaded outside the church. Bonfire?




The image of the Virgen comes out of the church and is paraded around the Plaza but does not go through any of the arches.








The Virgin faces the Urinsaya altar.


After the Virgin is returned to the church. The doors are shut, the bonfire is lit, and the dancing begins.






The next day it's a repeat with a procession after mass. This time the Virgen goes under and through the arches.




There's an alfombra outside the Municipal Building.


Out she comes.




And through the arches.








15-sec video. Link here.




Around the Plaza.




Stopping at the Municipal Building.


Flowers are thrown. A bouquet is attached.




Back to the church.




The music turns from somber to festive and the Virgen is spun around before being backed into the church. Link here.