Georgia: Not so remote Kazbegi

From Alaverdi, we headed north back into Georgia. Since Armenia and Azerbaijan are at war with each other, their common border is closed. Thus we had to go back to Georgia, in order to cross into Azerbaijan, which turned out to be moot, as all Azerbaijan land borders remain closed to incoming visitors, but not outgoing, since Covid (more later). After the border crossing we took a bus to Tbilisi, rode the Metro several stops, then took a bus north into the Caucasus Mountains to Kazbegi.

Since we already had Magical Mestia on the itinerary, I hesitated putting yet another visit to the Caucasus mountains. Was I glad I did! The ride from Tbilisi to Kazbegi on the Georgia Military Highway (dates back to the 1800s), by way of the Jvari Pass (2379 m.a.s.l) was super scenic and interesting. Along the way, we passed numerous white water rafting joints and also ski resorts. There were Chinese construction teams working alongside Georgians on new roads, viaducts, and tunnels. Hundreds of trucks were parked waiting to enter Russia, as Kazbegi is only 14 km from the border, owing to the ongoing Russia Ukraine War. Now I understand that the long line of trucks we saw going between Trabzon to Batumi near the Turkey Georgia border must have been heading this way.

Kazbegi (1740 m.a.s.l) itself is towered over by Mount Kazbek at (5054 m.a.s.l), and which straddles the Russian-Georgia border. We made the requisite trek to the Gergeti Trinity Church for even better views (1st below).



On the road from Tbilisi to Kazbegi.






The Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument near Gudauri, Georgia is a must stop for some folks.


North of the Freindship Monument, hundreds of trucks were parked waiting to enter Russia.


Our hotel room in Kazbegi had great views to Gergeti Trinity Church (left) and Mount Kazbek (right). At sunset (1st below). At sunrise (2nd below).




The walk up to Gergeti Trinity Church was fairly easy on a well-troden path, and we enjoyed the 360 views of the church, of Mount Kazbek, and of Kazbegi town below.
















On the way back to town, we took the paved road.




One last awesome sunset.

Armenia: Scenic Alaverdi

We based ourselves in Alaverdi to visit the UNESCO monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin. Alaverdi is set in the very scenic Debed river gorge. Its copper smelter was the largest in the Caucasus until it was forced to close due to environmental damages. There are efforts to put copper back to work, lucky for us that it hasn't happened, though not so good for the local economy.

We took the bus to Haghpat then walked to Sanahin then bused back to Alaverdi, as both monasteries are at the top level of the gorge. By now medieval Armenian monasteries are beginning to look familiar to us. Though neither of the monasteries were particularly compelling, it was a fun outing.

On the way from Dilijan to Alverdi we changed buses at the mostly empty Soviet-built train (1st below left ) and bus station (1st below right) complex in Vanadzor. Fascinating.








Alaverdi sits along the railroad tracks and river in the Debed River Gorge.


Murals. Hmmmm.


The minibus took us all the way up to the parking lot of the Haghpat Monastery Complex.










To get to Sanahin, we first walked down to the bottom of a side gorge, passing a WWII War Memorial and ending up on a Medieval Bridge.






Our goal, Sanahin. is in the far, far, right below. To get to it we must walk through Akner Village, far center below.


Then a steep track up to the Sanahin plateau with some good views of the local "fortress" (1st below) and a view back to Haghpat Monastery (2nd below).






Here's our lunch spot view at the edge of the plateau.


After lunch, we walked towards Sanahin, across wide green pastures and meadows atop the plateau, and through the village of Akner, with awesome views of the gorge, and stopping to wait out several showers. One of the waiting spots was under a rocky overhang.








The Sanahin Monastery was ho-hum (2nd and 3rd below) but there was an awesome view (1st below) way back to Haghpat across the plateaus and over the gorge.






City center Sanahin, a formr copper mining town, was still 1km away. The streets were muddy due to improvements. We passed one parked Soviet era Paz vista dome bus and then rode another down, down, down to Alaverdi with an unexpected stop to wait for a landslide to be cleared.












Bonus: Landslide photos from previous travels. First Peru (2019), then China (2012).