Azerbaijan: Finally Baku

We are finally in Baku, the setting of Ali and Nino, which inspired our whole Caucasus itinerary of an already epic journey. We were fairly worn out. Weather was getting pretty warm. Cutting out all day trips, we stayed in town the whole time, enjoying the beautiful city.

Baku is the largest city in the Caucasus, on the Caspian Sea. The city has changed much since Ali and Nino's time. The cultural crossroads has emerged into the monoculture of "Modernity," much helped by Caspian Sea crude oil.

Historically Azerbaijan belonged to the Persian sphere, home of Zoroastrianism, undoubtedly fueled by all the oil they were immersed in. Today the most emblematic landmark of the city are the Flame Towers. It seems Batumi aspires to be Baku of the Black Sea, especially since the two are linked by the Baku-Supra pipeline, since the Caspian Sea (100 feet below sea level) has no outlet.

In Baku, a string of shiny new modern buildings lines the Bulvar (Boulevarde) along the Caspian Sea, from the Cresent Hotel (1st and 2nd below) to the flower-shaped Deniz Mall (3rd and 4th below), with the three Flame Towers towering above.








The school that Ali and Nino attended.


Recent graduates (not sure which schools) taking photos in the Philarmonia Garden




Lunch at Samik,a local restaurant (1st two below), and lunch at a falafel fast food place (3rd).






We were always walking by the eye-catching, circa 1926, Baku Railway Station.




One evening we walked up past the Carpet Museum (1st below), and Swans Fountain, to the "Panoramic View".






















The Soviet-built Government House and the nearby Permanent Baku F1 Grand Prix grandstand and pits.




There are quite a few Art Nouveau buildings in central Baku. First below is the former Tiflis Trade Bank, now a Rolls Royce showroom! And second the Zeynal bey Selimkhanov Apartments.




Azerbaijan is over 95% Muslim. Below is the Friday Mosque.


The very modern Heydar Aliyev Center is extremely photogenic from every angle. And so is the 12th-century Maiden Tower in the Old City (5th below).

Azerbaijan: Quiet Sheki

From Tbilisi our original plan was to continue east by bus across Azerbaijan to catch our flight home from Baku. However during my trip planning, I failed to register that the Georgia-Azerbaijan land border is open only for exiting from Azerbaijan not for entering. We ended flying yet another time, from Tbilisi to Baku. From Baku airport we made our way directly to the Baku International Bus Station, then took a small bus (more than half way back west towards Tbilisi) to Sheki; one of our least elegant moves ever.

Between Baku and Sheki the landscape is first arid wide valleys, distinctly different from the lush mountainous terrain we have been everywhere in the Caucasus, then a bit less arid in the "Wine Country", then green forests and wheatfields. Sheki itself is at the foothills of the Caucasus Mountains. It was on the Silk Road and then developed its own silk industry, evidenced by two huge caravansaries that still remain. The area does not look to have too many economic activities in recent years. Sheki got on the UNESCO list in 2019. It's obvious the town is trying its hand at tourism.

The flight from Tbilisi to Baku.






The small bus to Sheki.


The changing lansdscape on the 300km drive northwest.














Our guesthouse.


City view from The Fortress.


Minaret.


Typical local architecture. Brick!






The huge, very cool, now a hotel, Upper Caravanserai is on the way up to the Fortress.










The highlight of the Fortress is the Palace (2nd -> 5th below). No photos allowed inside.










More photos from around town.