Tajikistan: Dushanbe

From Panjakent, we took a shared taxi to Dushanbe, capital and largest city of Tajikistan. It turned out to be a super scenic ride in the middle of the snow covered mountains. Then we went into an interminable tunnel that was not illuminated at all, full of potholes. We didn't realize until later that it was the infamous Anzob Tunnel, dubbed as the "Tunnel of Death" - at 2600 m.a.s.l. bypassing a 3500m pass, 5km long - we were not expecting such a thrilling ride.















Dushanbe is another one of those places that rose significantly during Soviet time. While the most significant Soviet buildings remain, the rest of the city is getting a major makeover. It seems half of the world's construction cranes are working in Dushanbe (1st below). Many of the construction companies look to be Chinese. BTW, Dushanbe also has a fleet of new electric taxis and buses (2nd below). According to World Bank statistics, Tajikistan would be the poorest country we have ever visited. I only wish all the poor countries were this functional.





Soviet State Circus (сирк)


Soviet-built Apartments




Soviet Mosaics, Murals, and Monuments.












An even bigger surprise awaiting us in Dushanbe were tulips. There were tulips everywhere, millions. We have been to Holland during tulip season and Floriade (an international flower festival, every 10 years). Dushabe had more. Besides, in Holland the flowering tulips were mostly behind paywalls. In Dushanbe, tulips were planted where other cities would have pansies. We couldn't comprehend such extravagance until John looked it up - tulips are native to the Pamir and Tianshan mountains in Central Asia. It was the Ottomans that cultivated and introduced them to Europe.



















Dushanbe Railway Station (Душанбе вокзал)


Night Lights.


Opera House Fountain


Rohat Tea House


Hotel Avesto


Green Bazaar

Tajikistan: Panjakent

From Samarkand, we crossed overland into Tajikistan to Panjakent, the first of many land border crossings to come. Even though Panjakent is only 20 kilometers from the border, the difference was felt immediately. Not even really considered a city, Panjakent is bustling in a way that none of the Uzbek towns even stirs, all the while I am very much aware that borders are artificial because they are political, especially in Central Asia. One can just glance at the map and feel the dubious nature of the jigsaw puzzle borders.

The Tajik language is a Persian language, which used to be the language of Central Asia, until the arrival of waves of Turkic-speaking people/conquerors. While everyone else (e.g. Uzbeks, Kazaks) in the region now speak a Turkic language, the Tajik speakers continue to speak their Persian language, living amongst their Turkic speaking neighbors. Trying to recognize the Tajik speaking people, the Soviets first constructed Tajikistan in 1929, which led to 6 years of civil war upon the dissolution of the Soviet Union with different regional groups vying for control. People also looked more European which is confirmed by this study.

The other thing we noticed about Panjakent was people are particularly welcoming. Young people are very gregarious. We were constantly being greeted and welcomed (1st below). Since Tajiks and Uzbeks live on both sides of the border, we have to attribute the extra friendliness to the border being closed for much of the 2010s due to political tensions. It finally opened in 2018 then was promptly shut during COVID. It just reopened within the last year.




In Pajakent during Ramadan, there is a flurry of street food cooking activity in the hour just before the daily fast-ending Iftar meal. For us, it was the perfect opportunity to purchase hot, tasty, deep-fried treats.


We stayed at a hotel just a block from the Бозор (Bazaar) and Olim Dodkho Mosque.










The excavated ruins and walls of an ancient city can be found above the southern edge of town. There are great views north to snow-capped mountains. We walked up there both days we were in town.
















One day we walked down to the wood-planked suspension bridge over the Zeravshan River, checking out some public art and architecture along the way. The bridge shuddered each time a vehicle drove over it. See the one minute video first below or click here.