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Tuesday, March 11, 2025

Malaysia: Kuching

Kuching, towards the northwest corner of Borneo, is capital of the state of Sarawak. At 1.5 degrees north, it is very warm. However the annual rainfall is over 4 meters which make it habitable.

Unlike many towns in Malaysia, old town Kuching survived WWII. It seems like a Chinatown. In fact the tourist center part of Kuching is mostly Chinese. There were many vegetarian restaurants. We very much enjoyed vegetarian versions of the quintessential Malaysian Laksa and Nasi Lemak.

Chinese Temple - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

We made a day trip to Bako National Park. Our usual luck had us visiting on the rainiest day while we were in town. Between the rain and the heat and the humidity, we were soaked the whole day. Reaching the park involves a 20-minute boat ride at extortionary rates. I think it's a boat mafia. Compared to Kinabatangan, it is a terrible deal, but here we did get to walk in the rainforest, spotting a probiscis monkey along the way. Both hikes we completed led to rocky beaches. Did I mention the wild Bornean Bearded Pigs?

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Proboscis Monkey - Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Bornean Bearded Pig - Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Day Trip to Bako National Park - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Eating vegetarian in Kuching was pretty easy and several restaurants served vegetarian versions of nasi lemak, the fav national breakfast dish. Below is nasi lemak from Super Tasty Big Veggie - a name that fits.
Vegetarian Laksa - Super Tasty Big Veggie - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Also at Super Tasty Big Veggie, we had veg laksa, the national soup. It's spicy with rice noodles.
Super Tasty Big Veggie - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Super Tasty Big Veggie Restaurant - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

The view from our hotel room at night.
View from our Hotel Room to the Sheraton - From The Bus Stop in BSB, Brunei to the Imperial Riverbank Hotel in Kuching, Malaysiathe

Below is the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly building located on the Sarawak River.
Sarawak State Legislative Assembly - Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia


Thursday, March 06, 2025

Brunei

Brunei is a tiny country to the south of Sabah with half a million people. At its height, Brunei ruled all of the coastal areas of the island of Borneo, mountainous inland was little settled. In 1929 oil was discovered offshore. Brunei didn't become independent from the Brits until 1984.

Though more than half of the country's economy is oil-based, the amount of oil must not be at the same level as the Gulf States, as Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), the capital city is rather modest looking, and rather quiet, except the second morning it seemed half of the city turned up for the rehearsal of the National Day celebration. In fact, it is rather old fashioned. Right in the middle of the city a large part of the old water village is preserved where the Sultan of Brunei formerly had his water palace.

Compared to neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia, Brunei seems much more fundamentalist. Maybe when the oil runs out, their adherence to Islam will save the country.

In a Grab Taxi from the BSB Airport to our hotel.
From Semporna, Malaysia to BSB, Brunei by Van -> Planes - Grab Taxi

The view from our hotel, the Qing Yun Rest House, located on the Brunei River in downtown BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan, the Capital City).
From Semporna, Malaysia to BSB, Brunei by Van -> Planes - Grab Taxi

Out and about the next morning, we were surprised to find a Chinese Taoist Temple nearby.
Chinese Taoist Temple - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

The pride of the city is the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, built in the 1950's. Non-Muslims can visit a slim section of the mosque. It was peaceful, cool and comfy inside so we sat down on the carpet along the wall for a rest, and a break from the sun and heat.
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Sun-Ling (right) - Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

A park with a lake surrounds the mosque which is of course also lit up at night.
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

From the mosque we walked over a footbridge to Tamoi Water Village where all the houses, and a school, and a mosque, sit above the water on stilts. There is even a fire hydrant system - look for the blue pipe. This place was more than fascinating.
Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

The people in the water village own boats, not cars. There is a small shipyard (1st below), and many docks. For those who don't have boats, water taxis stop at the many jetties (2nd below).
Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

We happened to be in the water village when the school let out. It's a religious school. This boy is wearing the school uniform.
Kampung Tamoi Stilt Village - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

We woke up on our last day in BSB to the sound of military marching drills below our window. And around the corner there were marching bands, and more. Later we found out it was a rehearsal for the National Day Celebrations.
Brunei National Day Celebration Rehearsals - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Marching Band - Brunei National Day Celebration Rehearsals - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

The rehearsals centered on the large parade grounds in front of the mosque where a newly hung banner provided a backdrop.
Brunei National Day Celebration Rehearsals - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

For lunch we were able to find a restaurant with veg options.
BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Finally, we visited the Royal Regalia Museum where the Sultan keeps his "stuff" i.e. gifts from foreign countries, and the Royal ceremonial vehicles and liveries. Also, there are exhibits on the history of the Sultanate.
Royal Regalia Museum - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Royal Regalia Museum - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Royal Regalia Museum - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Royal Regalia Museum - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Royal Regalia Museum - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

We found BSB to be pretty much with the modern Asian world: Dairy Queen, Pizza Hut, Mr Softee, a giant parking deck, and a mall with an atrium.
DQ - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Pizza Hut Delivery - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Mister Softy - Brunei National Day Celebration Rehearsals - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Parking Garage - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

Mall Atrium - BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

A few more shots of the BSB waterfront.
BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

BSB (Bandar Seri Begawan), Brunei

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