Brazil: Institute Inhotim

Institute Inhotim, about 1 hour by car SW of Belo Horizonte, is nature reserve interspersed with gardens and contemporary art installations. It is a rather unique place. While the colonial towns were built from gold, this palace"" was funded by iron ore, and originated from the private estate and art collection of a mining magnate. Though we are usually not huge fans of contemporary art. The setting is beautiful.

Notes to fellow travelers: Inhotim is free Wednesdays, and last Sundays of the month. Get tickets online. Bus 3787 goes to Inhotim, note the time on the schedule is departure from the Brumadinho. We caught the first bus on Sunday, the bus arrived in centro more than 20 minutes earlier than Google maps estimated. We almost missed it. John had to jump up and down, waving his arms. ;-) For return, get the bus here

We caught an early morning bus and, after a twenty-minute walk from the bus stop, arrived five minutes before the gates opened.


One of the highlights of Intohim was "Narcissus Garden" by Yayoi Kusama featuring floating orbs floating in the light breeze to form never-the-same geometric formations. Watch the video 3rd below with sound on.






It's a lakeside setting for "Invenção da Cor, Penetrável Magic square n.5, De Luxe" ("Invention of Color, Penetratable Magic Square no. 5, De Luxe") - by Hélio Oiticica


"Galleria" by Lygia Pape.


"From Mud, a Blade" by Matthew Barney, housed in a glass geodesic dome, was a wonderland for photographers, including us.




"Tartaruga" ("Turtle") by Zhang Huan.


The gardens and grounds at Inhotim are colorful and offer a place to relax; bring your blanket and picnic, and maybe stand in line at the Shade Garden.










We waited in line to get into "Desvio para o Vermelho" (Red Shift) by Cildo Meirele.




The jaboticaba fruit grows directly on the trunks and branches of the so-called Brazilian Grapetree. Wow! Tasty too; reminded us of our SE USA muscadine grape.


"Celacanto provoca maremoto" ("Coelacanth provokes seaquakes") by Adriana Varejão.


The Vandarium Orchid Nursery. Wow! One of our favorite places at Inhotim.


"Beam Drop Inhotim" by Chris Burden




Here is John, immersed in "Cosmococa" by Hélio Oiticica and Neville Almeida.


Sun-Ling, framed in Viewing Machine by Olafur Eliasso


Lygia Clark: Dialogue


And finally on the bus back to Belo Horizonte.

Brazil: Sabara

While in Belo Horizonte, we visited yet another colonial gold town, Sabara. I almost didn't want to go, but the buses seemed rather easy and frequent. So we went and I had a revelation. One of the churches, Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Black Men (Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Homens Pretos), sits unfinished at the top of Praca Santa Rita. The sign read something like: Construction started in 1768, interrupted several times due to lack of resources, and permanently paralyzed by the abolition of slavery 1888.



Even though this was a Black/African church, it finally dawned on me - all the churches were built mostly by slave labor. These churches afford the rare opportunity to be able to admire the creative outputs and artistic expressions of the oppressed people. I see our whole tour of Minas Gerais in a different light.

Sabara is a tidy town, welcoming to visitors. See this bus stop signage below that identifies the top sites in town.


On the walk into the historic center we passed the nicely restored, blue and white of course, Solar do Padre Correia colonial building.


The main square, Praca San Rita, with palm trees, blue benches, and freshly painted colonial buildings.






We spent almost 30 minutes in the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, a gem of Minas Gerais colonial art with many interior carvings by Aleijadinho the master of Brazilian Baroque. The caretaker/ticket seller was the nicest guy. He pointed to the posted list of the most significant Aleijadinho works, and made sure we did not miss the stairs to the pulpit!














The Parish Church of Our Lady of the Conception contained two wooden doors with painted Chinese motifs (3rd below). Interesting!






And finally up a steep hill to Nossa Senhora do Ó (Our Lady of O) with more Chinese motifs inside - look for the pagodas around the altar - and a vaguely Chinese steeple






"So long Sabara!" as we wait at the bus stop for the return to Belo Horizonte.

Brazil: Mariana

While in Ouro Preto, we took the bus 12km to Mariana, the very first town of the state. Though smaller today than Ouro Preto, Mariana is still the bishopric seat. There used to be a train between the two towns, but not currently running.

The old Railway Station.






The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Assumption




Scenes from the streets.




We walked up to a high point in town at the Church of Saint Peter of the Clergymen; another church with an elliptical floor plan.






Then back down towards the bus station, passing a former convent, now the spiffy blue and white Hotel Providência.


Church of Saint Francis of Assisi (L), Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (R) - Praça Minas Gerais.


And we treat ourselves to a cold strawberry acai smoothie before catching the bus back to Ouro Preto.