The High Tatras - Stary Smokovec to Strbske Pleso

The High Tatra Mountains straddle the Slovakia-Poland border. We based ourselves in Stary Smokovec to do some hiking on the Slovakian Side. The area is busy with skiers in the winter and hikers in the summer. We were there the first week of May, an in-between season; too warm for skiing and too early for the best hiking as there is snow cover on the highest peaks and many trails are closed.

Nevertheless, the hiking was still pretty good. One day we walked from our pension in Stary Smokovec up to a series of waterfalls, then up to about 1500 meters to a viewpoint. The second day we rode the train to Strbske Pleso, the largest ski resort in the Slovakian Tatras and walked up to a natural lake that was still mostly frozen.

And what did we think of the Tatras? There were more hikers than we expected for a Tuesday and a Wednesday, although many were school kids on outings. Stary Smokovec was lively in the mornings when hikers were setting out, and then again in the early evening when they returned.

We were surprised to see the terrible devastation to the forest by bark beetles. Yes, in some places the views are better but overall it's depressing.

And when we saw a habituated red fox on the hiking trail, we were reminded of Yosemite where very easy access to the wilderness for multitudes of humans may not be in the best interest of man or beast.

It took three buses to get us from Banska Stiavnice to Stary Smokovec. Riding the bus in Slovakia has been easy. The larger cities have nice bus terminals like this one in Banska Bystrica where we stopped for a 25 minute lunch break.


Our first view of the Tatras was from the bus window. Bonus: racing the train.


The Grand Hotel in Stary Smokovec was built around 1904, about the time the area was developed for tourism.




We stayed in the more modest Pension Mon Ami.


Walking up to Hrebienok along the funicular railway.






To the waterfalls.


Vodopády Studeného Waterfall.


Information.


Downed trees, killed by bark beetles.


Then we followed the Red Trail aka The Magistrála which is quite rocky in some places.




The viewpoint where we ate lunch and then turned around was quite popular...




...with views to both the valley and the mountains.






Two older-than-me women meet on the trail.


The red fox.....who then looked me right in the eye.


More bark beetle devastation.


Again as we walked down along the funicular trail, more deforested areas.




The electric train that runs between the High Tatra resort towns. Very convenient.


Stary Smokovec Station is very busy in the early evening when hikers and walkers return.


Dinner at Koliba Kamzík restaurant: grilled veggies; traditional potato noodles with cheese, and a dark Saris beer.


Day Two we rode a very crowded train to Strbske Pleso ski resort which is set around a lake.






And next to the lake, at the foot of the lifts, ski jumps.


And again, up the Magistrála.






To the still frozen lake at ~1500 meters.






The rain and ice pellets move in. We move out.




Almost back to the train station and the sun is out.