Sunday, February 25, 2018

Walking in the Amalfi Coast

We had definite ideas of seeing the Amalfi Coast this second time. All we wanted to do was "walk" in the hills above. Instead we ended up with many unexpected highlights.

* The highlight of any walking in the Amalfi Coast is supposed to be the "Path of the Gods." Since there is no bus to the start (Bomerano) from Amalfi on Sunday, we had to do the walk in the rain on Saturday. Since no one else is as crazy as us, we literally had the path to ourselves. Because of the rain, we marched at a steady pace and completed the walk in the "advertised" time, something we never seemed to manage. Even though, sometimes we were completely in the clouds, when there was a break, watching the clouds move in and out was just as mesmerizing as clear views. 

* On Sunday we walked from Amalfi up to Pontone, Minuta, Scala, and Ravello; then down to Atrani. I was amazed to see that all the villages are connected by a maze of well maintained paths and stairs, not evident from studying maps at home. I had gathered from seeing all the terraced fields that the locals must be very hardworking. On this Sunday we came across more working horses/men than tourists on our walk.

* Accommodation is expensive, probably due to lack of competition (most places are not operating this early in the season) than demand. We ended up in a little studio apartment above the Duomo. Navigating to, from, and around the apartment was more challenging than any medina in Morocco; and more fun; and the church bells were much more insistent than any calls to prayers. The little walk between Atrani and Amalfi was similarly super fun.

Lowlights:
* Positano is totally overrated. Maybe it's even better seeing it deserted.
* All the beaches are worthless looking IMO.

Next time, we will stay a few weeks, in a place with a view, and walk more.

Starting the Path of the Gods walk.
Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast, Italy

Clouds moving in.
Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast, Italy

Even these goats were staying inside and dry.
Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast, Italy

The clouds clear...for a minute or two.
Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast, Italy

Almalfi Coast, Italy

Of course it rained the hardest on the toughest part of the path. Sun-Ling could easily spot my orange umbrella. ;-)
Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast

Path of the Gods - Amalfi Coast

View to Nocelle.
Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei) - near Nocelle, Amalfi Coast, Italy

And as the trail gets easy, the rain almost stops and the clouds lift - we can see to the horizon.
Almalfi Coast, Italy

We saw several of these "cable cars" used to move loads up the steep hills.
Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei) - near Nocelle, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei) - near Nocelle, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Ran into guy in Nocelle moving a load up the stairs with this mini, uh, .....What would one call it?
Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei) - near Nocelle, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Positano.
Path of the Gods (Sentiero Degli Dei) - near Nocelle, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Very cool Romanesque dog-fish image on the Positano Duomo Campanile.
Positano, Italy

Amalfi at dusk.
Amalfi, Italy

These Japanese guys were acting as if they were John, Paul, George and Ringo. ;-)
Amalfi, Italy

Amalfi, Italy

The Amalfi Duomo and Campanile.
Amalfi, Italy

View from our apartment window of the Campanile on morning two.
Amalfi, Italy

Heading up to Pontone.
Amalfi, Italy

Amalfi Coast - Italy

Looking down to Amalfi.
Amalfi, Italy

Looking down to Pontone.
Nocelle, Italy

In Pontone, men and boys were using horses or donkeys or mules to move bales of feed for sheep and goats.
Pontone, Italy

Pontone - Amalfi Coast - Italy

View to Ravello from Scala.
Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

In Ravello there was a 19 km trail run in progress.
Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

The finish was in front of the Duomo.
Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Inside the Duomo: 11th century workmanship.
Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Italy

View to Maiori.
Amalfi Coast, Italy

We walk through amazing terraces of lemon trees on our way to Trani.
Amalfi Coast, Italy

Amalfi Coast, Italy

Trani - Amalfi Coast - Italy

Trani - Amalfi Coast - Italy

Trani.
Trani, Italy

A fun maze of stairs and alleys on the walk from Trani to Amalfi.
Atrani, Amalfi, Italy

Atrani, Amalfi, Italy

Amalfi at dusk.
Amalfi Coast - Italy


2 comments:

Kathy said...

Great photos. I don't think you go to the AC for the beaches! I thought Positano was quite pretty but probably not a good place to stay. Your apartment location sounds good.

Sun-Ling said...

@Kathy, I remembered the beach cubbies, umbrellas, and chairs from our last visit. It looked to be pretty serious beach bathing. We loved our place in Amalfi and I am not sure if there is a better base for walking than Amalfi.