The biggest attractions in Arles are their Roman ruins: an impressive amphitheater with a theater next to it, and a fine museum housing a Roman barge pulled out of the Rhone River in 2011. Their population today is only half of that during Roman times.
In the Caesar vs Pompey power struggle, Arles backed Caesar, for which it was amply rewarded. With its position at the mouth of the Rhone, Arles' eminence rivaled that of Marseilles for much of history; that is until the industrial revolution which left Arles by the wayside, (or quayside?), losing its archbishopric along the way.
Arles flaunts its Van Gogh connection for his 15-month sojourn there in 1888-1889. The town looks much the same as it did then, in the shadow of its Roman past. Much of the town's own economic activities take place during the sprawling Saturday, as well Wednesday weekly markets, traditional style.Then a certain crazy Dutchman showed up in town. The scores of visitors that are drawn to Arles because of the Van Gogh connection have more than made up for all his crazy antics that dismayed the townspeople.
Today river traffic is flowing again with fashionable Rhone River "longboat" cruises. Furthermore Arles has attracted the attention of the Swiss Roche pharmaceutical fortune. A new mixed use development project is taking place near historical center, complete with Frank Gehry tower, though hideous beyond imagination. Nevertheless, Arles looks to be in ascendancy again, not necessarily out of its own volition.
We saw many touring cyclists in Arles.
There always seemed to be a group of tourists clustered around the main door to the Arles Cathedral and it's amazing Romanesque portal.
The Arles Roman Arena with a medieval tower. During the Middle Ages, the arena was converted into fortified city with houses inside.
The Saturday Market encircled more than half of the old town - a good combination of fresh food, goods for tourists, and a North African clothing souk. And more.
A big pan of shrimp paella.
Much of the market takes place in the shadows of the old city gates and walls.
Provencal handbags.
We buy some favas.
We visited an art museum and were introduced to a local artist and contemporary of Picasso, Alfred Latour.
The Ancient Arles Museum was very cool with it's garden in the form of a Roman Circus; and its 2000 y.o. Roman barge.
Our apartment was in the now trendy Roquette Quarter ie a 5-star hotel has just opened there.
Seemed that we walked across or along the Rhone River several times each day.
This set of houses along the Rhone must not have changed much in the last 150 years.
Cruise ships.
We planned our visit to the Roman Arena to coincide with a special "gladiator fight". It was very cool even though the fight lasted about 5 minutes and there were only 100 spectators. ;-)
There are also bullfights in the arena, hence the red ring.
It's possible to walk and climb just about all over the arena. We spent about an hour doing that.
Van Gogh painted a bull fight at the arena.
Model of the arena from the Ancient History Museum.
The Roman Theater is next to the Arena.
The Cathedral has a Romanesque Cloister.
And here I am walking on the cloister's roof.
Van Gogh was confined in this hospital but was allowed to paint.
Van Gogh painted this cafe which is still in business today; a tourist trap they say.
Place de la Republique with Hotel de Ville (back left) and Cathedral (back right).
On out last full day in Arles we first visited the Baths of Constantine, then walked out to the Roman Aqueduct and Mill at Barbegal.
A beautiful walk on back roads with views to the old abbey at Montmajour.
And we think we walked past a farm with exotic animals; but not sure.
walking up through the ruins of the millworks.
The water channel.
The aqueduct.
Finally, the controversial Tour LUNA or Tour Gehry. I kinda liked it, SL no.
1 comment:
I'm with SL, that tower is ridiculous.
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