Friday, May 18, 2018

Lucky Arles

I had the hardest time figuring Arles out, or rather how I could sort out how I feel about Arles.
The biggest attractions in Arles are their Roman ruins: an impressive amphitheater with a theater next to it, and a fine museum housing a Roman barge pulled out of the Rhone River in 2011. Their population today is only half of that during Roman times.

In the Caesar vs Pompey power struggle, Arles backed Caesar, for which it was amply rewarded. With its position at the mouth of the Rhone, Arles' eminence rivaled that of Marseilles for much of history; that is until the industrial revolution which left Arles by the wayside, (or quayside?), losing its archbishopric along the way.

Arles flaunts its Van Gogh connection for his 15-month sojourn there in 1888-1889. The town looks much the same as it did then, in the shadow of its Roman past. Much of the town's own economic activities take place during the sprawling Saturday, as well Wednesday weekly markets, traditional style.Then a certain crazy Dutchman showed up in town. The scores of visitors that are drawn to Arles because of the Van Gogh connection have more than made up for all his crazy antics that dismayed the townspeople. 

Today river traffic is flowing again with fashionable Rhone River "longboat" cruises. Furthermore Arles has attracted the attention of the Swiss Roche pharmaceutical fortune. A new mixed use development project is taking place near historical center, complete with Frank Gehry tower, though hideous beyond imagination. Nevertheless, Arles looks to be in ascendancy again, not necessarily out of its own volition.

We saw many touring cyclists in Arles.
Arles, France

There always seemed to be a group of tourists clustered around the main door to the Arles Cathedral and it's amazing Romanesque portal.
Arles, France

Arles, France

The Arles Roman Arena with a medieval tower. During the Middle Ages, the arena was converted into fortified city with houses inside.
Roman Arena - Arles, France

The Saturday Market encircled more than half of the old town - a good combination of fresh food, goods for tourists, and a North African clothing souk. And more.
Saturday Market - Arles, France

Arles, France

Saturday Market - Arles, France

Arles, France

A big pan of shrimp paella.
Shrimp Paella - Saturday Market - Arles, France

Much of the market takes place in the shadows of the old city gates and walls.
Arles, France

Provencal handbags.
Saturday Market - Arles, France

We buy some favas.
Arles, France

We visited an art museum and were introduced to a local artist and contemporary of Picasso, Alfred Latour.
Ancient Arles Museum - Arles, France

The Ancient Arles Museum was very cool with it's garden in the form of a Roman Circus; and its 2000 y.o. Roman barge.
Ancient Arles Museum - Arles, France

Roman Barge - Ancient Arles Museum - Arles, France

Our apartment was in the now trendy Roquette Quarter ie a 5-star hotel has just opened there.
La Roquette (quartier d'Arles) - Arles, France

La Roquette (quartier d'Arles) - Arles, France

Seemed that we walked across or along the Rhone River several times each day.
Arles, France

Arles, France

The Rhone at Night - Arles, France

The Rhone at Night - Arles, France

The Rhone at Night - Arles, France

This set of houses along the Rhone must not have changed much in the last 150 years.
Arles, France

Cruise ships.
Arles, France

We planned our visit to the Roman Arena to coincide with a special "gladiator fight". It was very cool even though the fight lasted about 5 minutes and there were only 100 spectators. ;-)
Roman Arena - Arles, France

There are also bullfights in the arena, hence the red ring.
Roman Arena - Arles, France

It's possible to walk and climb just about all over the arena. We spent about an hour doing that.
Roman Arena - Arles, France

Roman Arena - Arles, France

Roman Arena - Arles, France

Van Gogh painted a bull fight at the arena.
Roman Arena - Arles, France

Model of the arena from the Ancient History Museum.
Ancient Arles Museum - Arles, France

The Roman Theater is next to the Arena.
Roman Theater - Arles, France

The Cathedral has a Romanesque Cloister.
Cloister - Arles, France

And here I am walking on the cloister's roof.
Cloister - Arles, France

Van Gogh was confined in this hospital but was allowed to paint.
Arles, France

Van Gogh painted this cafe which is still in business today; a tourist trap they say.
Arles at Night - Arles, France

Place de la Republique with Hotel de Ville (back left) and Cathedral (back right).
Arles at Night - Arles, France

On out last full day in Arles we first visited the Baths of Constantine, then walked out to the Roman Aqueduct and Mill at Barbegal.
Arles, France

A beautiful walk on back roads with views to the old abbey at Montmajour.
Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

And we think we walked past a farm with exotic animals; but not sure.
Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

walking up through the ruins of the millworks.
Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

The water channel.
Walk to Barbegal Aqueduct - near Arles, France

The aqueduct.
Aqueduc et moulins de Barbegal - near  Fontvieille, France


Finally, the controversial Tour LUNA or Tour Gehry. I kinda liked it, SL no.
Tour LUMA  - Frank Gehry designed building - Arles, France



1 comment:

Kathy said...

I'm with SL, that tower is ridiculous.

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