Checking off Colca Canyon

Because of the S/70 ($21 @ 2019 exchange rate) tourist ticket that is charged for Colca Canyon, I had deemed it a tourist trap. In 2010, we had the good excuse of snow for skipping it. This time we felt compelled to ticking it off.

Coming from Cusco, we had to take a $65pp special tourist bus in order to make it in one day. Otherwise, it's either an overnight bus, or an overnight stay in the very cold mining town of Espinar. We've had flights that cost less. On the road to Chivay there was either mining or camalids. Switching to a local bus in Chivay, we made it to Cabanaconde from Cusco in 10 hours.

Most people come to Cabanaconde to trek to the bottom (and return) of the Canyon, which never appealed to us. We had considered taking the bus to the bottom, but that idea evaporated once we saw the Canyon. Billing itself as "a fissure twice as deep as the Grand Canyon", it is rather underwhelming. We made a circuit of the the obligatory miradors.

Certainly not everyone comes to Colca Canyon to trek, everyone is certainly expecting to see condors. For our self-guided condor viewing, we took the 7am bus from Cabanaconde to the less popular Mirador de Tapay. This time of the year the condors are still nesting and it's is only expected to see a few. We did see a few and it was very exciting. The next day on our way out of town, we even saw two condors soaring in the canyon from our bus!


The 4Mexpress van picked us up on time at 6:45 am in front of our apartment and we were soon out of Cusco and headed south through rugged landscape towards Chivay. The driver and guide were professional and helpful at all times including confirming the onward bus to Cabanaconde.






As we neared the turnoff to Chivay, there were more than one smoking volcanoes in the distance.


Lunch at a Chinese Resto. This is shot of their super-clean restrooms ;-) and our green 4Mexpress van.


The barren, cold, windy volcano viewpoint at 16,000 ft above sea level.


A view of Chivay just before arriving.


The transfer from the 4M van to local bus in Chivay was painless and we enjoyed the 2-hour local bus to Cabanaconde; passing through ancient towns with sturdy one-of-a-kind Spanish Colonial churches, and peering down into the awe inspiring Colca Valley and Canyon. Here's the Colca Valley near Yanque.


Local woman about to get on our bus. Check out her beautiful embroidered hat and jacket.


Our first glimpse of Cabanaconde lying under the setting sun.


The Plaza in Cabanaconde at Sunset.


Inside the church.


15 Seconds of bell ringing. If embedded video does not play, the link here.


The next morning is sunny and not too cold. We catch the 7:00-ish am bus towards Chivay, get off at Mirador de Tapay at 7:30, and sit down to wait for condors.


Yes! The black and white dot (more or less in the middle) is a condor that is soaring up out of the canyon to hunt for food.


We also spot an eagle.


And another condor gliding below us on the edge of the canyon walls. Thrilling.


Looking back to Mirador de Condor where most of the tourists are.




Clear view over to Tapay.


And an hour later, just as we are tiring of looking, another condor comes up out of the canyon. I get some so-so video.




If the embedded videos above won't play for you, the links are here and here.

Spotting.


Around 9:30 we start walking along the canyon rim back to Cabanaconde. First on the paved road, then down through the fields.










At Mirador de San Miguel we spot the Oasis Sangalle, the overnight stop for many canyon trekkers, below.






Back in town. Love hand-painted signs.


The church.


After lunch we checked out a couple of miradors to the west.


There's a blue bus on the lower road across the canyon.


2 X 15-second videos.




The bull ring.


Sun-Ling and friend at Mirador de Achachihua.


View from Mirador de Achachihua.




GPS track of the day's walk.