Epernay: Champagne Country

As we were never much fans of wine tastings, these days we simply make ourselves a program of walking through the vineyards. From Reims, we took the train to Epernay, in the heart of Champagne region, and set out walking a loop, first on a greenway following the Marne River, then through the vineyards to villages Hautvillers (whose abbey is where Dom Pérignon invented Champagne0 and Cumières, and ending on the Avenue of Champagne (a UNESCO World Heritage site) in Epernay. The fall colors of the vineyards were beautiful, a rare brilliance of timing on our part.

At first I was a little surprised that the villages seemed more modest than I expected. Then, we read that Champagne making was only possible after bottle technology was advanced enough to withstand the pressure. Even though the rent is high, the history of wealth accumulation is relatively short.

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On the train from Reims to Épernay. We see some vineyards with fall colors out the window.






To get to the greenway we had to cross the Marne on a busy bridge with a view.


The greenway is a gem. It has a cycling lane and a pedestrian lane, and picnic tables.




And all of a sudden, after crossing to the other side of the Marne, there is a view to Hautvillers up in the distance to the right.


It's up, up, up, to Hautvillers, stopping at several veiwpoints to take photos.












Wow!


Hautvillers is small and tidy, with more viewpoints. ;-)




While we were at the eastern-facing viewpoint above Hautvillers there was a brief shower. No worries. We pull out the umbrellas and eat a snack.




It's a short walk down to the western-facing viewpoint, complete with picnic tables and drinking fountain, and more-than-awesome views of the Marne Valley towards Cumières. We stopped for lunch from Sun-Ling's mobile kitchen.








Then down, down, down, though the vineyards to Cumières with one more viewpoint on the way.
















Cumières




Almost back to Épernay.


Walking on the 1km-long Avenue of Champagne row with opulent mansions built with champagne money. Some are brand HQs; others, the home of the founder/owner.


Hautvillers and Cumières, Marne, France">





The iconic De Castellane Tower and warehouses as we leave Epernay Station and train back to Reims.