Vietnam: Ha Giang and Dong Van

Ha Giang province, east to Lao Cai (home to Sapa and Bac Ha), is the next province that borders China, home to the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark. Vietnam's most preeminent tourist destination, Ha Long Bay is a collection of karst formations over water. Dong Van is karst formations in the hills. The way the area is marketed to tourists is the so-called "Ha Giang Loop". You either drive a motorbike yourself or ride in the back with a hired driver, in a group, going in a circuit of Ha Giang - Dong Van - Meo Vac - Ha Giang on switchback mountain roads, taking a few days' time.

Our option is a low carbon approach. We took the minibus from Ha Giang city to Dong Van. Basing ourselves in Dong Van, we took a minibus towards Meo Vac and got off at Ma Pi Leng Pass to walk the famous Sky Path. Instead of continuing to Meo Vac, we returned to Ha Giang from Dong Van as the ride was particularly scenic and the road goes over bigger mountains. We were rather pleased with our Dong Van visit. Even though the weather wasn't particularly good, we did have a dry day to walk the Sky Path, which was the old road until the modern car road was built. The path is very well maintained, either stone or paved, i.e. not muddy. Another afternoon we had a short walk out of Dong Van to a view point.

From the walks and the bus rides, we could tell that Ha Giang has a lot of roads, which is often not the case for such mountainous areas. Each village has a nice road, sometimes just enough for motorbikes. There are enough shared transport that ply the mountain roads too. The cellphone has been transformative. Hotels and guesthouses can make reservations for us (sometimes with commision) and we'd be collected at their lobby door. Often goods are transported alongside passengers. In the last few weeks, we have shared transport with thousands of dollars worth of cymbidiums, a new motorbike, ducks and chickens on the roof, pigs in the hold. In a different universe, UPS and Amazon drivers would drive minibuses and we too could have public transport in the suburbs. ;-) 

Hiking the Sky Path was the highlight of our visit to Ha Giang Province. The trail starts with a view down into the bottom of the pass where one can take a boat ride in a man-made lake.






An hour later we have gained altitude but have a different view down into the pass.






Walking below the so-called White Cliffs of Ha Giang was more than thrilling. A commenter on Flickr, described the 2nd photo below: "What a severe and overbearing landscape! Not for the faint of spirit!" [If the video (4th below) will not play for you, click on this link.]








The walk after the White Cliffs is beautiful but not so spectacular. One spot (2nd below) is an Instagram favorite. Maybe you can spot a guy on a rock ledge doing pushups with his shirt off.




Back on the main road we started walking the 8km back to Dong Van, but soon got picked up by a local bus.




Dong Van village sits in a scenic spot. Here's the view from our hotel.


The long bus rides in Ha Giang Province were not boring. Often we were passing through groups of motos doing "The Loop". Not to mention livestock on the bus roof, and supurb views of the mountains!




























In the southern part of Ha Giang, the bus passed by many places where veneers for plywood production were drying alongside the road.