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Wednesday, March 18, 2026

Tunis: Punic Kerkouane

Kerkouane is not a photogenic site, but was inscribed by UNESCO in 1985. Since it was abandoned after the First Punic War, it is the only Phoenician/Punic site remaining today that is unadulterated by the Romans.

The site is well preserved enough to make out what could have been the prototypes of later Roman houses; center courtyard and finished floor. Furthermore each house has a bathtub and basin; an obviously prosperous sophisticated civilization, destroyed by Rome.

It was not a waste of time as I had half expected. I even had an epiphany - Roman won the Punic Wars over the Semitic speaking people, but in the end adopted Judeo Christianity, a Semitic religion. Maybe that's the reason Christianity never seemed congruent with Europe to me, because it is really Roman at its core: conquest, subjugation, and hierarchy, as the new Punic War wages on.

The first stage of our visit to Kerkouane is a 2-hour louage (long-distance shared taxi/van) ride from the Bab Aliwa Louage Station in Tunis to El Haouaria. Below is the busy Bab Aliwa Station.
Bab Aliwa Louage Station - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

We passed Rades Olympic Stadium.
Rades Olympic Stadium  - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

In El Haouaria, we took a brief look around town, before taking a taxi to the Kerkouane site turnoff. I was surprised to see an old cinema with a mural of Charlie Chapline as "The Tramp". And we walked towards the famous caves for a look at the Mediterranean Sea.
The Cinema-Teatro in El Haouaria - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

View to Zembra Island from El Haouaria  - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

A glimpse of the old ways from the taxi.
Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

From the turnoff, it was a 3km walk to the site.
Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

The compact site museum (below). Check out the downspout ornament (2nd below) and Aerial Photo (3rd)
Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Downspout Ornament  - Kerkouane  Site Museum - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Aerial Photo - Kerkouane  Site Museum - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

As one enters the site, there is an excellent map with a marked route and a legend.
Site Map with Legend - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Our first stop is the "Sign of the Tanit House". Check out the terraza-like floors and the "Tanit Sign" (close up is 2nd below)
Sign of the Tanit House - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Sign of the Tanit House - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

The house also has a distinctive, and very cool IMO, red "hip bath" that seems to be in every house throughout the site.
Hip Bath - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

House Doorway.
House Doorway - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

The so-called "House with a Courtyard and Peristyle" located right at the water's edge, and its hip bath.
House with a Courtyard and Peristyle - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Hip Bath - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

One of the two Public Squares in Kerkouane.
Public Square -  Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

"House of the Priest" signage and another hip bath. ;-}
House of the Priest Sign - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Hip Bath - Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Remnants of the City Wall.
City Wall - Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

And we taxi to the Kelibia Louage Station, and take a louage back to Tunis; 2 hours on bumpy roads.
Returning to Tunis after a Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Returning to Tunis after a Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

Video: Our Louage Hits Some Traffic Returning to Tunis.
Video: Our Louage Hits Some Traffic Returning to Tunis after a Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

360 video of the Kerkouane site.
Daytrip to the Ruins of the Punic City of Kerkouane  - near Kelibia, Tunisia

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