Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
Plan: Himeji Castle in the Morning, UNESCO World Heritage temples in the afternoon, Gion District at night.
Up early at 7:00 AM. Took down laundry, washed, packed, and out the door at 7:30. Arrived at station about 7:45 and got reservations on the 8:22 to Himeji and back to Kyoto on the 11:02. Stopped by the bus station and bought 2 1-day passes for 500 Yen each. Picked up breakfast: Iced coffee, Iced Cappuccino, 4 pastries. Excellent - from Boulangerie Café near station for 1155.
The Hikari bullet train took less than one hour to Himeji plus a 20 minute walk to the castle. Paid 550 admission each and did the fast one hour self-guided tour and back to the station just in time for the 11:02.
Himeji Castel is one of the few original wood construction castles to survive WWII. It’s a usual 15th-16th century castle with slots for gun, ramparts, lots of gates, and the highlight is the 6-story wooden tower (see photo) built out of many large wooden beams. There were many western tourists. Maybe they are all visiting from China like us. ;-)
The wooden tower of Himeji Castle.
Here’s some video of us boarding the bullet train in Himeji Station.
After returning to Kyoto we rode the local bus to NW to visit Ryoanji Temple with its famous Zen Garden – not crowded and cool. Sun-Ling wants me to construct a Zen Garden for her one day. Ha! Off with the shoes and up on the wooden viewing platform. There are 15 rocks but you can only see 14 of them at one time.
Also had fun with the carved stone that has a riddle. If you read Chinese you may figure it out.
Next, a short walk/bus Kinkauji Temple with famous Golden Pavilion - crowded and over-rated, or maybe not up to expectations.
Then over to the east side of town to the Sanjusangendo Hall of 1001 Buddhas and the longest wooden building in Japan. Not crowded and cool. Impressive. Once a year they have archery contests out back. It's the home of 2812 national treasures.
And then Kiyomizu Temple (Clear Water Temple) complex which was crowded and interesting. Good but not great views back to Kyoto. School children (and adults) were lined up to get a chance to drink the spring water using a cup on the end of a long pole. See video below. Lots of fun.
Then to Gion District. It was raining again. We wondered around and saw 5 geisha, complete with umbrella and low-necked back collar. Sun-Ling was surprised to actually see them. No photos.
Then we wandered again in the rain searching for dinner. Finally found a local snack joint just across the River from Gion. Great atmosphere – 10 seats at the bar, five tables and 3 young ladies working there with just enough English. I think we must have skipped lunch as I was very hungry.
Dinner: 2 Asahi Drafts, Deep fry tofu, fried veggies, and soba noodle stir-fry. All for 2600 Yen.
Home. Rode 2 bus stops and then a short walk back to the Yuhara. For a nice private bath. The private is a Japanese style bath. They draw water in a big stainless steel tub and then call you down. Slippers, Robes. You sit a wash yourself first – soap and shampoo - then into the tub for a nice soak.
Up at 8:15 and out the door at 8:40. Had no trouble negotiating rush hour subway and commuter train traffic and made it to Tokyo Station @ 9:10. Bought 2 Iced Coffees and 4 pastries at Café Chez La Gare for 1420 Yen and got on the 9:36 Hakari to Kyoto.
The train ride was uneventful and we could not see Mt Fuji because of the clouds.
Here’s some video I took out the window as the bullet train pulled out of the station.
Pulled in on time @ 12:20 to Kyoto Station and by 12:40 we were at Yuhara Ryokan Inn, which is about 20 minutes walking with packs, from Kyoto Station.
The ryokan check-in was not until 3:00PM so we dropped off the bags, signed in, and walked NW to catch the subway up to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. We arrived at the “Imperial Palace Household Office” at 1:40, just in time for the 2PM English tour. Picked up a couple of ice-cream sandwiches for 100 yen each.
The guided tour lasted for one hour, mainly for non-Japanese citizens, and was a good look at the outside of the buildings and gardens.
Kyoto Imperial Palace Garden
After the tour we rested, plotted, and then rode bus #102 over to the start of the so-called Philosopher’s Walk. Funny - we had recently been in Heidelberg Germany, home of another famous Philosopher’s walk. It began to rain just as started down the path, so we bought 2 soft ice creams, and waited. No improvement, so down the Philosopher’s Walk we went. Not too many tourists, just the occasional dog walker. We walked past many temples, shrines, shops, restaurants, and emerged west of the Heinan Shrine with its Big Red Gate.
Visited Heian Shrine then walked south through more temples, picked up a veggie bento box at a 7-iholding convenience store (7-11) and continued to the top of the hill where we could see Kyoto Tower in the distance, and then walked downhill, over the River, arriving back at the Yuhara around 6:30 – quite a walk.
Then out to dinner in the neighborhood at 38 Korea Noodle Mansion. Two guys were working behind the counter (see photo). At first we tried using English to tell them we were vegetarians. Some success. Then on a whim I tried Chinese. Turns out both guys are Chinese. They were surprise to hear me speak Chinese. ;-) We had 2 Suntory malt drafts, 1 stone bowl, 1 noodle soup, for 3200 – kinda steep. Then back to Yuhara, had a traditional Japanese bath, and hit the sack.
Up at 7:30AM and out the door just after 8. Walked north a bit over to the Sumida River where we found a friendly coffee shop, Doutor, a well-known Japanese chain, where we had 2 Large Mochas and 2 pastries each for 13K Yen total ($10US). The Doutor was quiet and efficient as all the patrons, except for us, seemed to be individuals; that is, there by themselves. We also saw first-hand the phenomena of using one's cell phone to “save” a table.
Then over for a short walk along the Sumida River bank. Located the ferry dock for the river cruise we would take later in the morning.
Walked down to the Mitsubishi Bank (like the auto company). They do NOT take foreign ATM cards (as we suspected but the Hotel management told us to go there anyway) but the security guard immediately gave us a nice map that showed the location of 2 nearby Post Offices that have ATMs for foreign networks (Plus, etc). I guess Mitsubishi Bank must get lots of foreign visitors. Efficient.
So over to the Post Office near the subway station and withdrew 50000 yen and back to the hotel to pay the 22000 bill – 11K per night for a double.
Finally we are out for the day. First we toured all around the nearby Sensoji Temple. The monks were chanting. Many tourists were in and around the temple complex and the famous Nakamise Souvenir Arcade. John took many photos and Sun-Ling bought a printed cotton tenugui (hand towel) for later framing from Keiji and Chihiro Kawakami for 1800 Yen.
Tourists taking a modern rickshaw to see the sites in Asakusa district
After more walking past the craft stalls with the painted doors (see photos) we barely made it over to catch the 11:30 ferry from Asakusa to Hinode pier – 1060 each - and they collected the tickets at exit so no souvenir.
A fine ride. Forty-five minutes or so under the 10+ bridges, each with a distinctive architecture. The boat was 2 levels and almost full including one load of school children who were lively but well behaved; that is, they bobbed up and down but stayed at their seats with no fighting.
Along the bank of the Sumida River there was a significant homeless encampment. Lots of blue tarps, or real tents, laundry, and other signs of an “organized” or “long-tern” or “semi-legal” or “tolerated” encampment. The best spots were under overpasses or elevated highways that ran along the river side of the bank. Riverview + roof. The river bank had a nicely paved, wide, riverwalk/path/quay on both sides – a great place to camp. Sign me up.
Sun-Ling took control of the camera, stood near the bow, and took photos of each bridge while John hung out in a seat. Just before we pulled into Hinode Pier, we had great views to the Rainbow Bridge and the Odaiba area with the great globe of the Fuji TV building. Got off at the Hinode Pier and followed the well-marked signs to the nearby JR station and rode 5 stops to Tokyo Station using our Rail Pass.
Sumida River
Tokyo Station is very large as it is a Terminal or Main station for Tokyo and the North/South Shinkanshan. We finally made our way to the North Exit with its red brick façade and early 20th century European stylings.
We then followed the wide main drag to the Imperial Palace. It was much bigger; much, much bigger, than expected. With inner and outer moats, massive gates, wide gravel paths, huge gardens, and a tremendously large area not open to the public. It must have its own circle subway line – just joking.
Made a vending machine stop. Our first in Japan. Sun-Ling bought an ice-cream and I bought a small iced tea.
Walked through the public East Gardens. Set a spell, rested and plotted our next move which turned out to be catching the subway to Yoyogi Park, home to the Meiji Shrine, the largest and most important Shinto Shrine in Japan. Not to mention it is next to some of the most interesting shopping districts. Takeshita Dori for young Punks, Goths, Lolitas, and Hipsters. Omotesando Street is the Champs-Elysee of Tokyo with cathedrals to Gucci, Louis Vitton, Max, etc.
The day started to get interesting. First, Takeshita Dori. Teenage girls wearing very outrageous stuff. Mostly what I think is called the “Lolita” look – they dress like 4 or 5 year old girls. Of course the “normal” schoolgirl apparel in Japan is “sailor suit” or “white shirt and plaid skirt” which could be strange or outrageous if worn in public in the USA. Very busy. Very young. Sun-Ling said she felt old. “Finally” said John.
Then over to Meiji Shrine, past the 3-piece rock bank busking on the pavement. Yoyogi Park is very wooded and green. Took some photos and video. Many western and Japanese tourists about. White lanterns. Wooden wish cards.
Then back down Omotesando Street. Bought a gold lacquer box at Oriental Bazaar for 300 yen. Ate dinner at nearby Brown Rice Café. Each had menu of the day for 1060 each. It’s 1000 plus 6 percent tax. Get it? Very tasty, but no alcohol served. Hmm.
Walked through adjoining neighborhood of trendy shops, boutiques, and restaurants. Got a little lost but straightened out.
Then back to JR line and rode 2 stops north to Shinjuku district and headed east to the “entertainment” district – lots of neon – and many young people. Used to be the Red Light District but now is a pedestrian mall with lots of PG entertainment.
Shinjuku at night.
After lots of walking around we decided to head back to Asakusa for a “dinner” of drinks and snacks at the famous Kamiya Bar. After a 30 minute journey back, we arrived at a “closed’ Kamiya Bar. What kind of bar is closed at 9PM? Maybe it’s closed every Tuesday.
So after failing to find a noodle shop recommended by Frommers, we ate at TNT Tempura Shop on the main drag. We had briefly checked it out the night before. It’s a small shop, probably a chain, with young folks running the show. Three booths, a 10-seat bar plus kitchen. We had 2 Sapporo drafts (Nama Beer) and 2 veggie tempuras plates for 1890 total. The tempura was great: one each of lotus root, pumpkin, yam-like root, egg plant, and mushroom clump, all in a bowl of rice. Plus a cold tofu dish. Back to hotel passing a lively indoor soccer match on the way. Crash.
“The food was tasty, the owner gracious, and the beer cold.”
Plan: Morning sightseeing in Mt. Koya and then bullet train to Tokyo where we have a reservation at the Family Hotel Kamogawa in the Asakusa District.
The “maid” knocked on our door at 6:30 AM and returned 5 minutes later to take away the bedding. She came back 10 minutes later with breakfast: tea, miso soup, pickled fruit, seaweed strips, tofu paddy, rice, pickle root, savory seeds to shake on rice, and hunk of boiling tofu in paper pots like last night. I rate the breakfast as fair. A bit too slimy for me. ;-)
7:30: Put on our clothes and headed out to Kondo temple complex where the monks and assorted helpers were setting up for initiation ceremonies that took place over the course of Oct 1, 2, and 3. We sat and watched the last minute preparations: sweeping, banner hanging, and lamp hanging. Then they “closed the doors” -- peaceful -- and we walked back to the Inn. The sun briefly came out. Then into the hot spring bath for a short soak.
We checked out at 9:00 and paid our bill of 23600 Yen, about $200 US, cash only. They stored our bags for us as we had more sites to see. Took some photos of the fish ponds, rain garden, and rooftops. Caught a bus towards the cemetery and rode to the end. It started raining cats and dogs so we ducked into a UCC coffee shop and had a couple a coffees for $3 each.
The rain let up and we walked up though the cemetery towards the Kukai Mausoleum, passing the rocket memorial (see photo), many Jizo (statues with red bibs – see photos), the water spirit memorials, etc. While taking photos I almost stepped on a snake. Also we saw either a very small orange/red/black hummingbird or a big fly.
The rocket memorial.
Then, as we were about to cross the sacred bridge, about 50 monks paraded out of the Hall of Lanterns and came down the path towards us. “No photo” motioned the leader to me, so no shots. After passing they arranged themselves into a cube and chanted and bowed in the four directions in front of another pavilion. As it began to rain, they one-by-one grabbed black umbrellas from a nearby stash and sprinted away down the main path. I wish I had good video or photos as these monks looked splendid in their orange and yellow robes with the black umbrellas. I caught a bit of the cube chanting on this video.
We briefly looked in on the Hall of Lanterns and then walked around to its back where the tomb of Kukai is located. You can’t really get close to the tomb so there’s not much to see. It started raining so we sat for a while under the large overhanging eaves on a long, long bench facing the tomb. Over the course of the next 15 minutes or so we watched people walk up and stop to chant or bow or light candles or all three.
The rain let up and we headed back down and attempted to find a north tracking road so we could make a short hike up to the top of Mt. Tenjuki. Found the road and eventually ran into a well marked trail that took us up to the top of Mt Tenjuki at a height of 910 meters above sea level. The summit was gained in less than an hour and marked by a shrine. We descended down the opposite side, walked by a small pond, though the new cemetery, and caught a bus back to town. Tried to find an open convenience store to stock up on provisions, but no luck, so we head back to the Inn, collected our bags, and polished off the rest of our peanuts and tofu.
Rock garden (karesansui) at the Fukuchi-in, the temple where we stayed on Mt. Koya.
Next: Return journey to Shin Osaka station and then on the Tokyo: 1:06 bus, 1:30 funicular: 1:42 train to Shin Osaka
As we waited for the funicular I noted that the temperature was 20 C. Also noted that in addition to the cable under the funicular, there was an overhead electric line. Hmm. There was a group of shall we say “active but polite” school boys on the train. There first activity was to try to push open a glass window that would have to curve in order to open – no wonder they are having trouble. They are not as smart as they think they are. ;-)
Arrived at Shin Osaka at 3:22. Transferred to Subway – 270 yen each – and rode 7 stops and caught the Hakari train to Tokyo. Whew! In the Shin Osaka Station we bought some lunch: 1 slice of veggie pizza, 1 egg salad sandwiches, and two pastries - all for 1010 Yen, about 8 dollars.
Some notes on the trip from Shin Osaka to Tokyo:
- We are in Car #6. The configuration is 2 x 3.
- The station announcements are in both Japanese and English.
- Many tunnels. Can feel pressure change in ears.
- Its 6:20 PM and totally dark outside as it is raining.
- This train is fairly full.
- Sun-Ling is studying Tokyo: Our route to the hotel this evening and our itinerary for tomorrow.
- Sun-Ling commented that during peak hours, trains leave Osaka every 10 minutes for Tokyo. What can’t we do that in China. Have trains leave Shanghai for Beijing every 10 minutes during peak hours. [We later found out that in the evenings, the overnight trains from Shanghai to Beijing do leave every 15 minutes or so.]
The train arrived on time at Tokyo Station at 7:13 PM. We transferred (free with Rail pass) to the local JR Circle line and rode 4 stops. The stations were crowded as the rush hour was not yet over, but no worse than Shanghai We then bought 2 tickets at 160 each for Ginza line and rode 3 stops to Asakusa station – the terminal station. Then, a 3 minute walk to the Kamogawa Family Hotel.
Even though it was still raining, almost the entire walk to the hotel was under cover. They had our names and we were installed in room #205 which fronts the street just as we like. It’s a traditional Japanese room with 2 parts, a “sitting” room with low table, fridge, mirror, and cushions, and “sleeping” room with mats, quilts, and closet. It’s about 3 meters by 10 meters. Nice. With tatami mats all round..
Then out to find dinner. We looked for one “cook yourself’ place but it was closed. So we ended up at
