Hey Everyone!
We are back home in Raleigh after a stress free day of flights from Baku, Azerbaijan to Istanbul to Boston to Raleigh.
The blog is about a month behind. Look for posts from the Caucasus (Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan) in the coming weeks. Not to mention we still owe you reports on our visit to Italy last Fall.
It's good to be home. Thanks for reading!
-john and sun-ling
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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Sunday, June 25, 2023
Thursday, June 22, 2023
Turkey: Enigmatic Trabzon
From Sivas, we headed north toward the Black Sea, on our way to Georgia. We opted for the 6-hour bus ride from Sivas to Trabzon, instead of the 5-hour train to Samsun plus another 5-hour bus to Trabzon. The bus ride itself was rather scenic.
Trabzon is a much touted destination by all the guidebooks. We don't quite understand. Maybe it's because we skipped the number one attraction, Sumela Monastery. After much investigation, we decided against going 1)the minibus doesn't allow enough time 2)the admission price is too high 3)the weather didn't seem too clear.
We stayed in town for the two days we were there. While Trabzon itself does have some tourist attractions, the newly built Boztepe Skywalk high up on the hill was a highlight. The thing is a whole kilometer long. It seems so extravagant - how many municipalities around the world would build such a thing? I loved walking on it, as everyone else around. Trabzon could really use a seafront promenade, where they have an expressway now. It looks like they are building a new road higher up on the hill. Maybe Trabzon will have a seafront promenade. This is just an example of how Turkey is developing to make cities better for the people.
We visited the Santa Maria Catholic Church (active) and the ex Hagia Sophia church, now a mosque. In both cases there are young muslims poking showing intellectual curiosity, something we didn't not see in the Arab countries. From what I read, Trabzon is supposed to be a conservative city. We happened to learn that the small hotel we stayed at the other 10 rooms were all Saudis. Do they feel more at home in Trabzon? Everything I read about Turkey mentions how the country is becoming more conservative. To me, it seems way more secular than Israel. For that matter, is Turkey or the US more secular?
On the Turay bus, with a 1 x 2 seat config, from Sivas to Trabzon.
The requisite rest stop wash down. ;-)
On the free shuttle bus from Trabzon Bus Station to the Maidan (city center).
Trabzon was a nice 3-night stop for us. Our hotel room had a balcony with a view of the Black Sea, and we found a very "vegetarian friendly" restaurant, Kalender Lokanta ve Kafe, on our first night in town.
Some shots from up on the Boztepe Skywalk.
Santa Maria Church
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). Formerly a church, now a mosque.
Some shots along the Black Sea waterfront, from port to amphitheatre.
And a few more pics from around the downtown.
The beautiful Gulbahar Hatun Mosque.
Trabzon is a much touted destination by all the guidebooks. We don't quite understand. Maybe it's because we skipped the number one attraction, Sumela Monastery. After much investigation, we decided against going 1)the minibus doesn't allow enough time 2)the admission price is too high 3)the weather didn't seem too clear.
We stayed in town for the two days we were there. While Trabzon itself does have some tourist attractions, the newly built Boztepe Skywalk high up on the hill was a highlight. The thing is a whole kilometer long. It seems so extravagant - how many municipalities around the world would build such a thing? I loved walking on it, as everyone else around. Trabzon could really use a seafront promenade, where they have an expressway now. It looks like they are building a new road higher up on the hill. Maybe Trabzon will have a seafront promenade. This is just an example of how Turkey is developing to make cities better for the people.
We visited the Santa Maria Catholic Church (active) and the ex Hagia Sophia church, now a mosque. In both cases there are young muslims poking showing intellectual curiosity, something we didn't not see in the Arab countries. From what I read, Trabzon is supposed to be a conservative city. We happened to learn that the small hotel we stayed at the other 10 rooms were all Saudis. Do they feel more at home in Trabzon? Everything I read about Turkey mentions how the country is becoming more conservative. To me, it seems way more secular than Israel. For that matter, is Turkey or the US more secular?
On the Turay bus, with a 1 x 2 seat config, from Sivas to Trabzon.
The requisite rest stop wash down. ;-)
On the free shuttle bus from Trabzon Bus Station to the Maidan (city center).
Trabzon was a nice 3-night stop for us. Our hotel room had a balcony with a view of the Black Sea, and we found a very "vegetarian friendly" restaurant, Kalender Lokanta ve Kafe, on our first night in town.
Some shots from up on the Boztepe Skywalk.
Santa Maria Church
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). Formerly a church, now a mosque.
Some shots along the Black Sea waterfront, from port to amphitheatre.
And a few more pics from around the downtown.
The beautiful Gulbahar Hatun Mosque.
Sunday, June 18, 2023
Turkey: Accidental Sivas
We only stopped in Sivas, because it was a convenient place to break up the trip from Cappadocia to the Black Sea. It was a pleasant surprise.
The madrasas (Islamic schools) and hans (Ottoman inns) built during the 12th-13th centuries during Selcuk rule are well preserved and beautifully restored. These are among the oldest Islamic monuments in Anatolia. It was the Selcuks that defeated the Byzantines and installed Islam and more significantly, the Turkish language, in Anatolia. This tour of ours really made me realize that languages tend to endure conquests much better than religions.
There were good views of Mount Erciyes (12,848 feet) on the bus from Goreme to Sivas.
Walking down the street in city center Sivas.
Çifte Minareli Medrese
Gök Medrese
Buruciye Medresesi - Now, a very popular cafe. We were very surprised to see quite a few women smoking cigarettes in these outdoor cafes - many in hijab.
Sifaiye Madrasah - Another busy cafe.
Sivas City Hall.
Taşhan (17th Century Ottoman Inn)
Dinner at Cadde, a new cig kofte (1st below, left) eatery where the pomegranate sauce (2nd below) makes the cig kofte lettuce rolls great. Cig kofte is finely ground bulgur wih tomato, spices and mint.
The madrasas (Islamic schools) and hans (Ottoman inns) built during the 12th-13th centuries during Selcuk rule are well preserved and beautifully restored. These are among the oldest Islamic monuments in Anatolia. It was the Selcuks that defeated the Byzantines and installed Islam and more significantly, the Turkish language, in Anatolia. This tour of ours really made me realize that languages tend to endure conquests much better than religions.
There were good views of Mount Erciyes (12,848 feet) on the bus from Goreme to Sivas.
Walking down the street in city center Sivas.
Çifte Minareli Medrese
Gök Medrese
Buruciye Medresesi - Now, a very popular cafe. We were very surprised to see quite a few women smoking cigarettes in these outdoor cafes - many in hijab.
Sifaiye Madrasah - Another busy cafe.
Sivas City Hall.
Taşhan (17th Century Ottoman Inn)
Dinner at Cadde, a new cig kofte (1st below, left) eatery where the pomegranate sauce (2nd below) makes the cig kofte lettuce rolls great. Cig kofte is finely ground bulgur wih tomato, spices and mint.
Saturday, June 17, 2023
UPDATED: Turkey: Popular Cappadocia
Cappadocia, famous for its distinctive landscape of "eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create houses, churches and underground cities"[Wikipedia]. It is the second (to Istanbul) most popular tourist destination in Turkey. We were not disappointed, though some of the "touristic" developments are quite disconcerting. There are hundreds of ATVs around, thankfully all parked during our visit, except a dozen or so in action. We also saw a few motorcycles zipping around, including on walking paths! How can UNESCO allow them?!
UPDATE: Reader KV asked "Can you rent one of these dwellings"? Yes! There are many "cave dwellings" for rent. However, from the reviews we read, those rooms are prone to weak wi-fi signals, and high humidity, so we stayed in a more or less regular hotel.
A more popular and quieter activity is sunrise hot air ballooning, though the first morning I woke up to the woosh sound of the balloon firing its burner right over our building. The balloons made the place even more fantastical. Second below is a video (or click here).
We opted for a low carbon approach to get to know the landscape.
UPDATE: Reader KV asked "Can you rent one of these dwellings"? Yes! There are many "cave dwellings" for rent. However, from the reviews we read, those rooms are prone to weak wi-fi signals, and high humidity, so we stayed in a more or less regular hotel.
A more popular and quieter activity is sunrise hot air ballooning, though the first morning I woke up to the woosh sound of the balloon firing its burner right over our building. The balloons made the place even more fantastical. Second below is a video (or click here).
We opted for a low carbon approach to get to know the landscape.
- Rose valley and Red valley: we mostly followed this track. There was a section of ropes in order to get to the top of the ridge (1st below).
- Love valley and Pigeon valley: we mostly followed this track. The viewpoints had many visitors, but no so many people walking the trails.
- Goreme Open Air Museum (a collection of churches), then we made our own program: after the museum, we went to the entrance of Meskendir valley, but decided we didn't really want to go down into it. We then returned to Goreme via Zemi valley.
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