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Friday, July 21, 2023

Armenia: Hilly Dilijan

Dilijan is home to the Dilijan National Park. It has been a mountain retreat for Russian artists since the 19th century. Today with the Russian-Ukrainian War, there are 1400 people in the Russian social media group, while the population is only 26000. The town itself is rather spread out and hilly.

Originally we had ambitions to hike from Haghartsin Monastery back to town. The tourist office warned us off - not maintained. We ended up walking back on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) from Lake Parz. Except for the mud puddles made by ATVs, it was a beautiful hike. The highlight was the millions of wildflowers blooming in the high meadow (1700 m.a.s.l).

On the way to Diligan we changed buses at the massive, Soviet-built, and nearly empty Northern Bus Station.
Northern Bus Station - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Northern Bus Station - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Booking/Ticket Office - Northern Bus Station - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Northern Bus Station - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Minibus 651 to Dilijan - Northern Bus Station - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Just before reaching Dilijan, we passed Lake Sevan, a popular weekend destination for Yerevanites and foreign tourists.
On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Lake Sevan - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Sevan - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

Lake Sevan - On the Road from Yerevan to Dilijan, Armenia

The tourist office was well-staffed, very helpful, and there were useful signboards outside.
Dilijan, Armenia

We walked up to the town center to buy groceries, and Sun-Ling cooked a tasty dinner back in our apartment which came with a baby grand piano.
Dilijan, Armenia

Dilijan, Armenia

Dilijan, Armenia

Dilijan, Armenia

The next morning we used the Yandex ride hailing app to get a car to Parz Lake - no hassle. The plan is to walk about 14kms back to Dilijan and our apartment.
In the Yandex Taxi - Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

The first part of the walk around Lake Parz and on the connector to the TCT (Transcaucasian Trail) was very muddy in spots.
ATTENTION. ABRUPT SLOPE. - Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

The TCT was was awesome. Well marked. No 4WDs or ATVs here. Thousands of towering beech trees. And an occaisonal view of high meadows, and pastures.
Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

A Large Beech Tree - Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

After and hour or so we reached the most beautiful alpine meadow and followed the TCT-signed poles to the other end for the lunch-stop-of-the-day.
Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Sun-Ling was very happy to snap a bunch of flower photos.
Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Sun-Ling + Alpine Meadow - Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

After another 8 kms of walking through smalls pasture and farms, and by a newish hotel, we found ourselves in the suburbs with viewpoint of Dilijan. Then a big downhill to our apartment.
Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia

Walking from Parz Lich/Lake to Dilijan on the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT) - Dilijan, Armenia


Tuesday, July 18, 2023

Armenia: Monumental Yerevan

Yerevan is the capital of Armenia. It has the usual trappings of a capital city, with most of the historical buildings dating to the early 20th century built during Soviet time, rather monumental. The city seemed POSH (fancy restaurants and luxury stores) for its development level. I am wondering if it's because of all the Russians and tourists. 

The highlight for us was the Cascade, an art deco cultural venture that was originally conceived in the 1920s, construction didn't start until the 1970s. Among other things, it houses a modern sculpture collection, and looks to have ambitions of further construction, though on hold. It enchants locals and visitors day and night.

After settling into our large, bright, one-room apartment, we headed out to buy groceries and start a self-guided walking tour of city center. First, the monumental Republic Square.
Republic Square - Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia

There were more than a few spiffy vintage GAZ Volgas around Yerevan. Some advertised "for hire" sightseeing excursions. A bit of both "vintage cool" and "Soviet nostalgia" IMO.
Vintage GAZ Volga - Yerevan, Armenia

The Rossiya Cinema, built to resmeble the two peaks of Mt Ararat, is certainly an eyecatcher.
Rossiya Cinema - Yerevan, Armenia

The ho-hum Saint Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral has a skate park behind it. The skate park is adjacent to the leafy Circular Park, aka the "Green Belt", which encircles the downtown.
Yerevan, Armenia

Skateboard Park - Yerevan, Armenia

Clamshell Fountain at the Republic Square Metro Station is impressive even when just half of the jets are on.
Clamshell Fountain at Republic Square - Yerevan, Armenia

They still practice traditional stone carving in a shop near our apartment. Check out the Khachkar below.
Khachkar - Yerevan, Armenia

The very cool Moscow Cinema with a fountain and a giant spider sculpture in front.
Moscow Cinema - Yerevan, Armenia

We stopped in a small shop for a Zhengyalov Hatz, an Armenian flatbread filled with herbs and greens. Tasty! Later we found out you could buy them freshly made and much cheaper at the local grocery store. Yes!
Zhengyalov Hatz (Armenian Flatbread Filled with Herbs) - Yerevan, Armenia

Zhengyalov Hatz (Armenian Flatbread Filled with Herbs) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Blue Mosque is an 18th-century Persian Shia mosque - peaceful.
Blue Mosque - Yerevan, Armenia

The very Armenia-style exterior of the City Market Hall.
Central Market Hall - Yerevan, Armenia

There is at least one Art Nouveau building in Yerevan; this apartment building although it was built in 1933.
Art Nouveau Apartment Building (1933) - Yerevan, Armenia

Art Nouveau Apartment Building - Yerevan, Armenia

The monumental Cascada, with Botero statues at ground level (2nd below), outstanding Art Deco fountains, and views over the city south towards Iran and Turkey, and more. You can walk up the outdoor stairs past the Deco fountains, or the indoor escalators through a very good collection of furniture art.
The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade ( Կասկադ ,Kaskad) - Yerevan, Armenia

Some night images: Republic Square (1st below), Moscow Cinema (2nd), a fountain near the Opera House (3rd), and the Cascada (remainder). Check out the Botero Cat.
At Night - Yerevan, Armenia

Moscow Cinema at Night - Yerevan, Armenia

At Night - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade (Կասկադ, Kaskad) at Night - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade (Կասկադ, Kaskad) at Night - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade (Կասկադ, Kaskad) at Night - Yerevan, Armenia

The Cascade (Կասկադ, Kaskad) at Night - Yerevan, Armenia


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