Fes boasts the largest medina in the world. One quarter of the city's one million population live in the medina. By now we consider ourselves old hands at medinas; nevertheless, I was overwhelmed though it was not as daunting as I remembered from our visit in 2000.
While there is not the constant threat of scooters as in Marrakech - Fes is hilly - there are hand carts and donkeys to watch out for, and I was rather annoyed by the large number of touts. There are endless interrogations on what do you want, this way, where are you going, I can be your guide, look at my such-such shop, eat at my restaurant, come see the tanneries. We managed two visits to Fes without the tanneries, just walking by all the live and dead (meat in the markets) animals makes me queasy enough.
To be fair, one can still see the many traditional (and modern) trades in Fes. There are a lot of people, especially older men, hard at work. It seemed this is the only place I see more of them hard at work rather than relaxing at cafes. Actually, the lack of better economic opportunity (how hard people have to work for how little they get) is almost too poignant for me. My only comfort is John said we wouldn't stay in the medina the next time we come to Fes.
We stayed just inside the medina's main gate, Bab Bou Jeloud, aka the Blue Gate.
The hotel's rooftop terrace was peaceful with a very good view.
The hotel was also near The Water Clock and the Madrasa Bou Inania (school).
We, and some Japanese tourists, managed to catch a glimpse inside the Kairaouine Mosque, when the doors opened for noon prayers.
Wandering through the medina.
The metalsmith souk is a must-see stop on the guided tours.
Automobile's are not allowed in the Medina, so mules and donkeys do the work.
I thought we snagged some tasty food in various medina stalls. SL was either not so impressed or habitually queasy. ;-)
One evening we walked towards and through the Mellah (old Jewish Quarter) where the buildings have outward facing balconies rather than inside courtyards.
20th-Century Post Office.
The beautiful Jnane sbil Gardens.
In one residential part of the medina, the government is renovating buildings.
Not to mention the new "Riverwalk".
Near the "Riverwalk" there is a souk for dying synthetic clothing; not animal skins.
The Andalusian Mosque in the eastern part of the Medina.
Lastly, the hotel's "included" breakfast was pretty good.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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2 comments:
You skipped the tanneries? I thought they were very photogenic.
I suspect that as in India the best way to deal with the touts is to hire one. Then the rest will give up. Otherwise I found staring at the middle distance often worked, but it interferes with sightseeing.
@Kathy, Tanneries fall the wrong way on my vegetarian ethics.....Regarding touts: the thought of having a hired guide/tout with me from 8 in the morning until 8 at night seems worse than having to fend them off multiple times per day. ;-) Looking forward to chatting about tanneries and touts when we get home. -john
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