Egypt: Tricky Philae Temple Complex

Philae Temple Complex is an entire island worth of temples that had been relocated because of the Aswan High Dam. Started during the waning years (7th century BCE) of the Egyptian empire, the Temple of Isis was the last of the classical temples. The Kiosk of Trajan (from the 1st century) might just be the most exquisite of all Egyptian and Roman temples.

The visit itself turned out to be a manifestation of the world's many problems. Over the years we have traveled independently to numerous countries more or less the same way, with varying degrees of ease and success. We have never felt so alone in Egypt. Hardly anyone is on our program. 90+% visitors are on escorted tours. The other 10-% have signed on with tours, guides, and/or drivers. This system concentrates the tourist revenue to the few, rather than spreading them out to the masses.

The system makes it very difficult for independent travel. From Aswan, the temple is 6 Km down the main road, i.e. plenty of transport, 1 km secondary road, i.e. sporadic transport, 1km toll (20EGP) road/parking area., plus a 10-minute boat ride. The common practice is to engage a taxi for the whole expedition. We combined some walking with two one-way taxis.

At the ticket booth, there is a sign clearly stating in English and Arabic, that the ferry is not included in the  entrance ticket, and is 200 EGP for 1-8 people, for 2 hours. It seems rather extravagant to take a whole boat for ourselves. We waited around for 15 minutes to see if others showed up to reduce our carbon footprint (we had read on the internet that the boat mafia would not allow separate parties to coalesce), but to no avail. We went down to the dock to the smallest boat. The boatman insisted on 300 EGP. John was outraged exasperated - what was the sign for?!; and went to complain to the tourist police. After much prodding the young boatman reluctantly took us for 200 EGP, all the while insisting we come back in one hour, not two as allowed.

The place had so many boats that covered a bigger area than the island. If all the boats carried tourists at full capacity, one would not be able to move around on the island. Here lies the problem. There are more workers than there is work. Therefore, a system of gauging tourists and burning extra fossil fuel was devised. How does one decide what is livelihood vs greed, development needs vs climate change? Honesty/integrity cannot be a privilege only of the haves?  

Endless power lines + the driver's face in the mirror, and his prayer rug on the dashboard, on the 285 km minivan ride from Abu Simbel back to Aswan.


Irrigation equipment (look closely across the center left) in a wheat field.


More photos (and a video) of the desert as seen from the minivan window.








Our very unhappy boatman on our way to Philai Island.


Philae Temple Complex as viewed from the boat.


Various photos of the Great Temple of Isis.






















The Kiosk of Trajan and its most beautiful columns.












And some wider shots of both temples.