On our last day we went up to Tripoli. We were very glad that we made it to and out of Tripoli before we left Lebanon. The second largest city, Tripoli is the antithesis of the glitz of Beirut. The old town is very traditional. Very little English is spoken. The old center is dotted with century old mosques, medersas, khans.... I imagine life changes slowly here.
The Crusader Citadel, extended by subsequent rulers, is the city's premier tourist attraction. It is still used as a military post. We walked by tanks to reach the ticket office. Sorry, no photos below for obvious reasons. There were as many soldiers toting automatic weapons as museum workers. That part itself was not disconcerting. We'd often see more of them on the streets in France. It wasn't until later, I realized that the UK Foreign Office specifically advises "against all but essential travel" to "the city of Tripoli." Upwards of 20% of the city's residents are refugees from Syria, not that the city is brimming with economic opportunity to start with. Lack of opportunity leads to discontent which breeds conflicts... not that we don't have such problems back home in the US.
We rode the Connexion Bus from their Martyr's Square Station (first below - bus can be seen at left) to their station in Tripoli (second). It's 300 LL pp each way.
Some views from the bus on the way up the Mediterranean coast.
When we arrived in Tripoli, the rain was light, but the wind was blowing at 40mph with gusts to 60. It took us a while to get our bearings, even with a pretty good map from the Tourist Office located across the roundabout from the bus station. First stop on our walking tour is the Clock Tower on Tell Square.
The Art Deco Style Lebanese National Theatre (former Empire Cinema) is also on Tell Square. Wow!
Along the way to the Grand Mosque we were pleased to spot a few more mid-20th-century buildings.
We arrived at the Grand Mosque between prayer times and were welcomed into the porticoed courtyard; nice, out of the elements.
The Grand Mosque is adjacent to a series of very long souks, madrasas (Islamic schools) and other mosques. Very atmospheric. Many of the older mosques and madrasas in Tripoli feature a distinctive black and white exterior. First below is a madrasa with the black and white pattern and a couple of Corinthian columns.
Sun-Ling (green jacket with hood) in the souk (covered market).
As we walked up the stairs to the Castle/Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gille the rain stopped but the wind kept blowing.
The Citadel is an up and down and around maze of stones with tremendous views in all directions. East across the river (below).
West towards the Mediterranean Sea with the green roofs of the Grand Mosque below.
South across the Citadel to adjacent apartments.
Northeast across the river.
View west with blue sky and the sea to the upper right.
And a final view of the fortifications and the city beyond.
Down from the Citadel and into the Gold Souk.
The old Khan/Han where caravans would rest.
Hammam (public bath).
More souks.
We turn around at the so-called Soldier's Khan, a barracks, and head back to the bus station through the French Quarter. How about this vintage VW van?
Church.
The beautiful Taynal Mosque. I failed to get a decent photo.
And back at our hotel we enjoyed a tasty Buzz lager to end our day.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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1 comment:
Interesting that 20 percent of the population is from Syria. I was amazed to see the picture of the car loaded down with bags on the top of the car. The car can be seen through the bus window.
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