Tajikistan: Panjakent

From Samarkand, we crossed overland into Tajikistan to Panjakent, the first of many land border crossings to come. Even though Panjakent is only 20 kilometers from the border, the difference was felt immediately. Not even really considered a city, Panjakent is bustling in a way that none of the Uzbek towns even stirs, all the while I am very much aware that borders are artificial because they are political, especially in Central Asia. One can just glance at the map and feel the dubious nature of the jigsaw puzzle borders.

The Tajik language is a Persian language, which used to be the language of Central Asia, until the arrival of waves of Turkic-speaking people/conquerors. While everyone else (e.g. Uzbeks, Kazaks) in the region now speak a Turkic language, the Tajik speakers continue to speak their Persian language, living amongst their Turkic speaking neighbors. Trying to recognize the Tajik speaking people, the Soviets first constructed Tajikistan in 1929, which led to 6 years of civil war upon the dissolution of the Soviet Union with different regional groups vying for control. People also looked more European which is confirmed by this study.

The other thing we noticed about Panjakent was people are particularly welcoming. Young people are very gregarious. We were constantly being greeted and welcomed (1st below). Since Tajiks and Uzbeks live on both sides of the border, we have to attribute the extra friendliness to the border being closed for much of the 2010s due to political tensions. It finally opened in 2018 then was promptly shut during COVID. It just reopened within the last year.




In Pajakent during Ramadan, there is a flurry of street food cooking activity in the hour just before the daily fast-ending Iftar meal. For us, it was the perfect opportunity to purchase hot, tasty, deep-fried treats.


We stayed at a hotel just a block from the Бозор (Bazaar) and Olim Dodkho Mosque.










The excavated ruins and walls of an ancient city can be found above the southern edge of town. There are great views north to snow-capped mountains. We walked up there both days we were in town.
















One day we walked down to the wood-planked suspension bridge over the Zeravshan River, checking out some public art and architecture along the way. The bridge shuddered each time a vehicle drove over it. See the one minute video first below or click here.

Uzbekistan: Samarkand

Samarkand more than any other city evokes the splendor of the Silk Road, with its gigantic monuments. We were glad that we were going up stream on the Silk Road. Not that Khiva and Bukhara do not have their own merits, Samarkand is breathtaking, nevermind they are largely the results of recent restoration and reconstruction; originally constructed during the zenith of the city when Samarkand was the capital of the Timurid Empire, one of the largest Empires in the world.

• The Registan had to be the most beautiful square in the known world in its heyday. Its beauty is hard to resist.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The monumental Bibi-Khanym Mosque, the largest mosque, built in 1400, is largely in ruins, nevertheless extraordinary.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex has the most superb tile works, anywhere.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• There are four dome ceilings around town that have been meticulously restored. If my neck didn't hurt from craning, I could look at them forever.
  
  Amir Temur Mausoleum
  
  
  Registan Square
  
  
  
  
  Aksaray Mausoleum
  
  
  
  

We decided to skip Shakhrisabz. Having been thoroughly dazzled by Samarkand, we didn't want to be underwhelmed, especially considering the travel time and expense.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara

Bukhara was a major city on the Silk Road. It had been the capital of various dynasties. Many of the buildings we see today originated during the time of the Silk Road. It was a major religious and commercial center. Hundreds of mosques and madrasas dot the place as well as many caravanserais and market halls.

• The early 10th century Samanid Mausoleum is the oldest example of brick on brick decoration that we are getting exposed to in Central Asia, as we are yet to visit Iran. See the short video below.
  
  
  
  
• We also got introduced to the kosh layout which consists of two large buildings - a mosque/madrasa or madrasa/madrasa — which face each other across a street or square, and are now wondering whether this is the reason we noticed so many twin towers in Dubai. Below is a mosque/madrasa combo, with the Kalon Mosque on the right and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasa on the left.
  
  
  
  
• The non-geometric decoration on the Nadir Divan Beghi Madrasa is a riot. The Madrasa was originally built as a caravanserai. Its splendor caught the khan's eye, therefore it was appropriated as a madrasa. Apparently it is more important to have a madrasa, even a sacrilegious madrasa.
  
  
  
  

Most of the preserved buildings are being used to sell souvenirs. John - the city has been restored to their old purpose - trading of goods.

On the 8-hour train ride Khiva to Bukhara, with older sleeper cars, and an ancient samovar. The final destination is Tashkent, and our compartment companions are settling in for the long trip. The fruit and nut trees are blooming outside adding some color to an otherwise bleak landscape. At one point we spotted a small herd of camels (6th below).












The Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress made of earthen walls. First below is the iconic main gate. There are great views from atop the walls to the Old Town (2nd and 3rd below). The walls are being rebuilt using the old material and methods (4th below).








The Bolo Haouz Mosque is directly opposite the Ark. Its large, colorful, wooden iwan was very impressive. We were there just as noon prayers concluded and able to step inside the more modern prayer hall for a few minutes.






Bukhara is more than monumental buildings such as the Ark and the Kalan Complex. There are small, cozy, neighborhood mosques as well. Architecturally they follow the same plan as the large mosques - wooden iwan outside; and carpets, chandeliers, and fantastic ceilings inside - on a smaller scale.






The Kalan Complex was amazing. A 46-meter minaret, a mosque with a large courtyard, and colorful decoration.












Across the square is the active Mir-i-Arab Madrasa with over 100 male students. Visitors are not allowed, but one can look through a grill to the inner courtyard.




All that remains of the Chor Minor Madrasah is the gate.


One morning we are out walking in Bukhara near the Lyabi-Hauz Pond (2nd and 3rd below) and a guy asks me to help him set up his restuarant tables (1st below). OK?!






Veg dumplings from our "goto" Bukhara resto.