The Pyramids of Izamal

Izamal is located on the Yucatan Peninsula, about 45 kms east of Merida and uniquely has Mayan pyramids right in the town center, two of which are very large. Also, the Franciscan church and monastery are built on top of a the ruins of a pyramid. Izamal is definitely worth a day-trip from Merida, or an overnight stay (which we did), and it is being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. The write up for that is here.

Nothing like a tasty breakfast at noon to get one going for the day.


The streets of Izamal.


Convento de San Antonio de Padua was built on top of the destroyed Mayan Acropolis called Ppap Hol Chak.




The view from the top of Pyramid Itzamatul, looking northwest to Pyramid KinichKakMo, the largest of the pyramids.


The view from the top of the great pyramid KinichKakMo. The grassy area below is part of the pyramid which extends to the yellow buildings in the distance. The building with the yellow tower and large courtyard is the Convento of San Antonio de Padua.


And more views of and from KinichKakMo.


The lower grassy area is part of the pyramid.




Our hotel was built on top of and in pyramid Hun Pik Tok.


Pyramid Chaltun Ha is a few blocks outside town.


Sunset view from the Monastery walls.


And the rising moon.


Convento de San Antonio de Padua plus roosting birds.

Mexico City - Part III - The Sun and the Moon

Thursday, out to the Toltec/Aztec ruins of Teotihuacan with the magnificent Pyramid of the Sun and Pyrdmid of the Moon. Wow! We've seen lots of ruins and this one ranks near the top. I would definitely go back again.

I hope the photos do it justice. If not, there's also a video that may do it.

Transport notes: Rode the metro to Central Del Norte and took the bus from Gate 8 for 40 pesos each. Handed the ticket seller a 200 peso note for the 80 pesos total fare. She gave us our tickets and a 20 peso note in change, then she paused to see if we waited for the additional 100 pesos in change which we did, then she handed it over. She was hoping that we were in such a hurry that we would forget the 100 due us. That's sleazy, but a tactic we've seen before.

Walking north on the so-called Avenue of the Dead with the Pyramid of the Sun at the right and the Pyramid of the Moon 4km straight ahead.


The Pyramid of the Sun is huge - 3rd largest pyramid in the world.


And it's a leg-stretcher & lung-burner to march up the 240 steps at 7500+ feet of elevation. But all the visitors seem to make it up.




The view from the top of the smaller Pyramid of the Moon is also cool. Even though it's not a big as PotS, it has a better view.






It was a beautiful day at Teotihuacan; sunny, breezy, temps in the upper 70's. We took a long break at the top of the Pyramid of the Moon.


Inside Patio of the Jaguars.


Another shot of the two of us and the Pyramid of the Sun.


The very cool Temple of the Feathered Serpents.

Tula and Tepotzotlan

We hopped into a Central Terminal bound van just outside our hotel, and 3 hours later were settled in Tula in the Hotel Casablanca (Pasaje Hidalgo, 11) which happens to be next door to the only vegetarian restaurant in town. Woohoo!.

Most folks see the Toltec ruins at Tula as a half-day trip from Mexico City but we decided to spend two nights; seeing the ruins the afternoon of our arrival and daytripping to Tepotzotlan the next day.

So of course we liked Tula: good hotel next to a vegetarian Restaurant; awesome ruins - hope the photos and video below do them justice; and the highly touted museum in Tepotzotlan which was worth price of admission and the longish trip.

Mana Vegetarian restaurant adjacent to our hotel.


Ball Court #1 - Tula Ruins.


Atlantes Warriors - Tula Ruins.


And some video.


Temple.


First Course - Enslada and Fruta (Salads and Fruits).


Second Course - Crema and Sopa (Cream Soup and Clear Soup).


Main Course - Tres Guisados (Three Dishes).


Museum of the Viceroyalty of New Spain at Tepotzotlan, Mexico.


Dome of San Pedro Aposto - part of the Museum.


San Pedro Aposto.


Camarin of the Capilla of the Virgen of Loreto - part of the museum.


Idigeous Motifs - Chapel of the Virgen of Loreto.


Camarin of Chapel of the Virgen of Loreto.


We were fascinated by "wedding portraits" of nuns in the museum - married to God of course.


Monastery of San Pedro - part of the museum.

Santa Ana - Part 1

Yes, you can travel by bus from Suchitoto to Santa Ana without having to go through San Salvador. We did it. See details below. Traveling by local bus, we are convinced that Central American bus conductors are among the hardest working people we've ever seen.

Santa Ana. El Salvador's second largest city, is the kind of place that a traveler might stay for awhile. We stayed three nights - long for us - haha. And one of the reasons was that Hostal Casa Verde lived up to its reputation as the best hotel/hostel for travelers in Central America.

The Parque Central of Santa Ana, surrounded by interesting architecture, was happening in the evenings with live Christmas concerts and food stalls. We grazed on tasty street food every evening: roasted ears of corn with salt and lime juice; papas with ketchup, mayo, hot sauce, and grated cheese; vegan tacos; and ice cream. There are many cafes and pastry shops. We patronized Ban Ban so many times that the staff got to know us.

We used Santa Ana as a base for two day-trips. The first was to Chalchuapa, 30 minutes to the west via bus #218. Chalchuapa is very tranqillo. We gazed at the Mayan ruins at the edge of town, then trekked to centro to the parques, mercado, and church.

Tip for travelers: It is possible to get from Suchitoto to Santa Ana without going through San Salvador, we just did it. The route, all done with public buses, is Suchitoto to Aguilares to San Pable Tacachico to Santa Ana.

From Suchitoto take bus #163 to Aguilares. Ride it to the end. The bus (not sure of the number - our bus had 3 numbers painted on it) to Tacachico starts 2 blocks from where 163 drops you off (ask the 163 driver to point out the Tacachico bus for you). Ride this bus to the end also. In Tacachico you change buses, but it's easy as the #232 bus to Santa Ana starts from the same intersection where the from Tacachico ends it's route. We killed the 45 minuted between buses by walking down to the square and buying ice creams.

Alternatively, you can take bus 163 to Aguilares, then go south to Apopa where bus 276 will take you directo to Santa Ana - our friend did this.

The Aguilares to Tacachico bus.


Sun-Ling in full travel gear buying ice creams in San Pablo Tacachico, El Salvador.


View to the Santa Ana Cathedral.


Christmas concert in the parque.


This corn vendor got a lot of business from us.


This former bank is now a museum. Very cool stylings.


One of the architecturally interesting buildings on the parque.


Sunrise view from the Hostal Casa Verde rooftop terrace. That's a minaret at left.


Igelsia Santiago in Chalhuapa with bicylists.


A view of the Tazumal ruins in Chalchuapa from the cemetery.


An interesting building in Chalchuapa.

Copan

A friend who had recently been to Tikal and Copan commented to us that he liked Copan better. Which of the two Mayan ruins would I like the most?

1. The Copan Ruins Archaeological Park
While Copan's Grand Plaza is not as grand as Tikal's, and its pyramids are not as high as those of Tikal, it more than makes up for it in richly carved glyphs and designs on stelas and buildings, still clearly visible having weathered in the tropical sun for over a millennium -- these people were very sophisticated! We spent most of the first day at the ruins, and a couple of hours at the site museum on the second afternoon. The museum has lots of good stuff too; the highlight of which was a full size replica of the Rosalia Temple, an exact copy of the one nearly perfectly preserved under one of the pyramids.

2. Scarlet Macaws - Guacamaya Roja in Spanish
The park keeps a flock of scarlet macaws at the entrance. They put out food and provide shelter for the birds who fly around freely. The park keeps them with the ease of someone else keeping pigeons. I had read about the macaws yet I was amazed when I saw them. One can see ruins everywhere, especially in this part of the world, but scarlet macaws, nobody else has them. We went back the second afternoon solely to visit with the macaws again. When the birds swoop down and fly by next to me, it feels like the opening sequence of some fantasy movie. I was thoroughly enchanted!

3. Copan Ruinas (the town)
The town of Copan Ruinas is just one kilometer from the park. At over 2000 feet it is the coolest place we have been so far. It is a pretty village which attracts travelers and hang-outers alike. The second morning our walk happened to take us to the village of "La Pintada" where Peace Corp volunteers were working with the village children. A few of the vilage girls were hopeful that we would buy their corn husk dolls. None asked begged for anything. We were lucky. A young boy named Milton solemnly escorted us to the viewpoint from which one can see down to the ruins. And on the walk back to town, we were offered and accepted a ride in a very ancient pickup truck. Lastly, a German named Thomas has opened a micro-brewery in town. John enjoyed a home-brew each afternoon.

So the answer is "yes" I liked Copan more than Tikal.

Scarlet Macaw video. If you can't view the embedded video, click here.


And more macaw photos:





Rosalia Temple replica in the Sculpture Museum at Copan (with John).


One of the stelae.


Several views of the Grand Plaza.




The Famous Hieroglyphic Staircase.


The East Plaza.


A stele in the West Plaza.