Transportation: Delphi-Kalabaka

Our SOP for pulling in to a town is to know our way out.  Everyone talked about doing a four-bus switch to go from Delphi to Kalabaka but we didn't find exactly how.  Upon arriving in Delphi, we were surprised to learn that on Fridays and Sundays you cannot start until 3:15 pm as opposed to 10:15 am on other days.  This means we would not arrive in Kalabaka until after 9pm on Friday.  For various reasons, we only travel after dark when it cannot be avoided.  In Greece, the main reason is that I want to catch all the scenery along the way.   We could stay another day, except our room has a pending reservation and there are not more things we feel compelled to do around Delphi.  We started to brainstorm and research.

The bottleneck is the Amfissa to Lamia leg.  Amfissa is 19 kms from Delphi.  Every morning  there exists 7:15 am bus from Amfissa to Lamia, but there are no buses connecting from Delphi.  This mean we would have to take a taxi, which is an extravagant proposition for us, both in terms of carbon footprint and cost.  After much deliberation we decided on the taxi.  We struck a deal with a driver to take us for 22 euros for a 6:30 am pickup.

The night before, I finished my blog duty and was doing last minute research,when the idea of taking the train occurred again.  During our research at home, we learned that Greece has very spotty train service and were pretty much resigned to taking buses exclusively.  Looking at the map, the bus route and train route almost intersect (1km apart) in Bralos about 35km north of Amfissa, and there is a train at 10:34 am that would take us all the way to Kalabaka.  I was immediately excited at the prospect of taking the train.  John was slower to warm to such a last minute change, right before bedtime....

Friday morning we were picked up by our taxi exactly at 6:30.  We caught the 7:15 bus from Amfissa.  The ticket to Bralos is 4.40 euros each.  It was raining as we approached Bralos around 8:15.  The young bus driver offered to take us all the way to Lamia and switch to the train there, so we would not have to be dropped by the side of the road and walk to the train station in the rain.  We assured him that we had umbrellas and good rain gear and would be okay.  

Ten minutes after the dropoff we arrived at the tiny (we expected) and deserted (we didn't quite expect) station of Bralos.  The handwritten board outside didn't look very current, but showed our train.  We just had to sit tight and wait in the 10x12 foot unheated unlit dingy waiting room.  The temperature was just above 50F.  While we didn't bother to put on our rain pants for the walk, we promptly put on our rain pants to keep ourselves warm.   

Soon after that, two passenger trains going opposite directions zoomed by without stopping.  While I didn't expect them to,  worrywart John went into overdrive -- is our train going to stop for us?  Actually I excel at worrying myself.  The two of us worry about different things.  Just last night I looked at the online schedule on their official website.  I didn't think Greece is such a dysfunctional country that they would get the train schedule wrong.  Nevertheless, John had me worried.  All I could do was to listen to my book, The Magus,  by John Fowles, which was at a particularly engaging part.  John took to pacing the platform [solely to stay warm- says John].

Around 10 John poked his head in the waiting room, all smiles, "a taxi pulled up, as if he'll wait for a fare."  Soon, another taxi pulled up.  Then a rainbow was reported.  That I had to see.  I went outside to admire the rainbow, and spotted a nice lady picking up bits of random rash.  I suppressed the urge for a confirmation that there will be a train.  Instead, I calmly asked her whether we wait at the platform or have to cross the tracks.  She spoke perfect English and pointed out that our destination, Kalabaka, is much more dramatic in the rain than under the blazing sun.  Then the three of us proceeded to have the nicest conversation.

At 10:35am the train arrived on time, we boarded train and got our tickets from the conductor, 9.40 euros each.  The first part of the train ride we were in the mountains, then we began to see the biggest plain yet for us in Greece.  I was relieved to see that they do have some flat land :D  Almost three hours later we arrived in Kalabaka.  The rocks of Meteora were dramatic.  The kind lady was not just trying to console us about the rain.  The train ride offset our carbon cost as well as financial cost of the taxi.  We were at peace and in awe of the rocks  as we took a leg-stretching late afternoon walk up in the peaks.

The Waiting Room at Bralos Station .


The Station.


The "highly maintained" official schedule board is not reassuring.


Rainbow.


The 10:34 train was similar to this train that sped on by without pause.


The train was relaxing, smooth, and quiet.


Looks like a new parallel set of tracks is under construction.


Settled into our hotel in Kalabaka and checking out the route for a late afternoon walk up into the Meteora rocks.


Up in the rocks!

Mexico City - Part III - The Sun and the Moon

Thursday, out to the Toltec/Aztec ruins of Teotihuacan with the magnificent Pyramid of the Sun and Pyrdmid of the Moon. Wow! We've seen lots of ruins and this one ranks near the top. I would definitely go back again.

I hope the photos do it justice. If not, there's also a video that may do it.

Transport notes: Rode the metro to Central Del Norte and took the bus from Gate 8 for 40 pesos each. Handed the ticket seller a 200 peso note for the 80 pesos total fare. She gave us our tickets and a 20 peso note in change, then she paused to see if we waited for the additional 100 pesos in change which we did, then she handed it over. She was hoping that we were in such a hurry that we would forget the 100 due us. That's sleazy, but a tactic we've seen before.

Walking north on the so-called Avenue of the Dead with the Pyramid of the Sun at the right and the Pyramid of the Moon 4km straight ahead.


The Pyramid of the Sun is huge - 3rd largest pyramid in the world.


And it's a leg-stretcher & lung-burner to march up the 240 steps at 7500+ feet of elevation. But all the visitors seem to make it up.




The view from the top of the smaller Pyramid of the Moon is also cool. Even though it's not a big as PotS, it has a better view.






It was a beautiful day at Teotihuacan; sunny, breezy, temps in the upper 70's. We took a long break at the top of the Pyramid of the Moon.


Inside Patio of the Jaguars.


Another shot of the two of us and the Pyramid of the Sun.


The very cool Temple of the Feathered Serpents.

Out of La Palma

Our destination, Suchitoto, is another over-hyped place, with overpriced hotel rooms and broiling weather. I loved the cool weather of La Palma, but there was no good hotel room to be had. Begrudgingly we packed our stuff as the conference was getting underway a second day. Having scoped out the bus situation, instead of trudging the few hundred meters to the main bus stop, we simply parked ourselves across the street in the shade and proceeded to patiently wait for the bus. Five minutes later, a kind man passed by, seeing us with our backpacks, alerted us that there will be no bus today. There is "el paro" (strike - a bus driver's strike) going on.

After confirming the situation at our favorite Mexican restaurant, John and I immediately switched into emergency mode. I did not want to go back to the hotel, so we had to go on. We put on our packs and marched down to the main stop. There was a micro-van going to south to Amayo which John immediately recognized as a town along the way. The driver even agreed to $2.50 instead of $3 for the fare, in such a crisis situation?! After a easy 45-minute ride, we arrived at the crossroad in Amayo. There were very many people waiting for alternative transportation, surprisingly orderly looking. We asked around for the various routes to Suchitoto. The consensus was to proceed south to Aguilares by waiting at the NE corner of the crossroad.

Less than five minutes later, two pickups drove up and people crowded onto them. The nice man John happened to ask about going to Aguilares came to tell us the second one was going to Aguilares. The fare was $1. We concluded these pickups were temporary relief for the strike, not at all trying gouge people. The nice man turned into our temporary conductor for the ride. He could barely whistle, which is how they communicate with the driver. haha!

When I got up this morning, I had no idea that I was going score another mode of transportation. Just five years ago, I would not have thought that could do it. Now that I have traveled and seen enough, I was mentally prepared for the ride.  Yet I was not physically prepared. Standing up in the back of a pickup was no problem what so ever, but the wind was like nothing I had experience before, considering I never like to have the car window open even a crack unless I am about to have a heat stroke.

I had been in speed boats in compulsory situations. The pickup was going much faster. I imaged parachuting minus the gravity challenge, or riding in a convertible without a windshield....Mercifully we arrived in Aguilares in twenty minutes. The regular bus to Suchitoto was running there, talk about the detour?! Turns our that only 5% of the drivers were out on strike.

When we finally settled into our hotel room in Suchitoto my cheeks were still vibrating from the pickup ride.

Tikal, but first, Another Border Crossing

In order to guarantee a hassle-free speedy trip from from St Ignacio, Belize to Tikal in Guatemala we eschewed public transport and paid for a private transfer. Speedy it was, hassle free, no.

In short, Sun-Ling bargained down the suggested "bribe" to enter Guatemala from 3 US$ each to 1 US$ each. Another Spanish language lesson. [Oficially, US citizens should pay no fee to enter Guatemala.]

Tikal is considered to be among the most impressive of the Mayan ruins. John was impressed. Sun-Ling was only so impressed. haha. [See the photos below.]

Impressed or not, we both enjoyed navigating around the site, climbing the ruins, viewing wildlife and watching the local and foreign visitors. Our visit to Tikal was on a Sunday when admission is free for Guatemalans, so at noon, the old Grand Plaza of the Mayans was the site of more than several modern picnics.

Tikal National Park is a vast jungle preserve (over 200 square miles) so we saw and heard vultures, hawks, 2 pale-billed woodpeckers, ocellated turkeys, hummingbird, many other birds, butterflies, spider and howler monkeys, a deer, a grey fox, an unknown large rodent, and the ubiquitous coatis.

We spent the night inside the National Park at the Tikal Inn which allowed us to spend more time in the ruins - leaving after dark with flashlights in hand - and to take short walk in the morning before leaving for Flores.

The two of us in front of Temple I.


Sun-Ling descending a Group R pyramid.


View from Temple IV to to Temple I and Temple II.


Temple I is at the eastern end of the Grand Plaza.


Temple I (right) and the Grand Plaza.


The Central Acropolis with Temple V sticking up in the back.


Sunset view of the Grand Plaza.

Longchang to Chongqing to Shanghai

A travel day with many segments.

Leave hotel at 10:15AM and walk to bus stop. Take local bus #7 (1 yuan each) to Longchang Train Station. The 11:07AM (41 yuan each) is on time and arrives in Chongqing at 4:15PM. Walk up a hundred (more or less) steps to a Chongqing Rail Transit (CRT - aka Chongqing Metro) Line 3 station. Ride 21 stops (6 Yuan each) to the end of Line 3 and it's a short escalator ride up to Domestic Departures at Chongqing Jianbei International (CKG). Our Spring Airlines flight (400 yuan each) leaves on time at 8:55PM and we arrive in Shanghai Hongqiao (SHA) at 11PM. Our bags come right out; the taxi rank is humming, and we are home at Sun-Ling's parents at 00:06 according to the fare receipt.

For our fellow independent travelers we present

How to get from the Chongqing Train Station to the Chongqing Metro (CRT) and Chongqing Jianbei Airport as of April 1, 2012.

On exiting the train station there is a medium-sized plaza. The bus station and official taxi rank are to the right (signage in Chinese and English). To your left and slightly above you (almost due north if you have a compass) is a local bus stop. There may also be taxis at this bus stop. And if you keep looking up you will see a long flight of steps with a monument at the top. That monument is your goal.

Walk across the plaza and up the steps to the bus stop. Then, cross the road via the pedestrian bridge and walk up the steps to the monument. At the monument, take a right and go up the steps under the arcade (or maybe its the underside of the road above). As you start up the dim, arcaded steps, keep looking to your left and very soon you will see the bright modern interior of Lianglukou Station with immediate access to lines 1 and 3. Go in. A ticket vending machine will be to the right. [As far as we could tell, there were no signs, in Chinese or English, in the arcade (or anywhere) pointing to the metro station, so stay alert.]

A ride/ticket to the airport is 6 yuan. Take Line 3 all the way to the end to Jianbei Airport Station. The ride takes about 70 minutes and the station is short escalator ride from Domestic Departures. Not sure how far to International Departures; check the signs to take the correct exit from the station.

Notes:
1 - Touts at the train station told us (they were lying) that it's a long walk from the metro stop to the airport, so "take our bus". Nothing could be farther from the truth. It's amazingly short to the domestic check-in counters.
2- We had no trouble getting ourselves and our backpacks into the metro station or onto the cars. Plus folks were friendly.
3- There are no signs (that we could see) at the train station pointing the way to the metro station and don't expect anyone to know where it is.
4 - The steps up to the monument are not trivial, but not daunting either. However, if you are dragging wheeled luggage, give yourself some extra time.
5 - I assume you can follow these steps in reverse to get from Jianbei Airport to Chongqing Station (not to be confused with the Chongqing North Railway Station).

Back on the Train

And it's back on the train from Zhaotong, Yunnan to Yibin, Sichuan; one of those slow trains which stops often on the single-tracked line to let faster passenger and freight trains pass. After we complained about a group of smokers, the conductor led us to an empty car at the far end of the train. Cool. Quiet is good as John was up in the middle of the previous night with "stomach troubles".

A few folks came on the car at the first stop; Zhaotong North. They had bought apples and chicks in Zhaotong and were taking them home. A few hours later the car was taken over by a large group returning from an outing. They shouted and scurried to put their unfrozen, just purchased sacks of meat next to open windows, then somewhat settled down to the usual pastimes: sleeping, playing cards, and eating sunflower seeds, punctuated by occasional shouting. You are never alone for long in China. Haha.

Located at the confluence of major rivers and with a busy downtown right where the rivers meet, Yibin reminded me of Pittsburgh, PA and Chongqinq, China. One day we walked around the city center checking out the temples, churches, old guild halls, and the rivers. The Art Deco Clock Tower, built in 1938 is one of the most impressive Art Deco monuments we've ever seen. Wow!

The next day we day-tripped 20 kms downriver by bus to Li Zhuang Ancient Town, famous for its distilled liquor and old quarter. Also Shanghai's Tongji University relocated here from 1940 to 1946 during the Japanese occupation of Eastern China. Judging from the number of restaurants and snack stalls and souvenir shops, Li Zhuang must get many tourists on holidays, but not the day we were there.

The empty car.


Chicks in the square boxes and apples in the baskets.


Heading to Sichuan.


The Jinsha River in Yibin.


The confluence of the Min River (left - clear) and the Jinsha River (right- brown) to form the Yangtze.


Facade of one of the Catholic Churches with mosaic tile work that is also seen on Guild Halls and Buddhist temples in this area.


The other Catholic Church. Btw, both Catholic churches were "open" when we walked by as are most Catholic churches around the world, but rarely in China.


The Art Deco Clock tower - 1938.


Rain ready moto-taxis.


Li Zhuang photos:

Card game in an old Li Zhuang courtyard.


Guild Hall Stage.


A vat at a distillery. I had a taste of the finished product - smooth!


Temple cupola with mosaic tiles.


Old Town - Li Zhuang


Blooming turnips on both sides of the Yangtze River at Li Zhuang


Octagonal Pavilion outside Li Zhuang.

Huili plus a bus ride

The train ride to Panzhihua put us in Sichuan Province for the first time since 2004 and after a day in the ancient town of Huili, our route took us back across the Yangtze River into Yunnan.

In a few words, Huili is very cool. The town once had a city wall and moat, a bell tower in the center of the gridded streets, and a drum tower above the North Gate. Remnants remain today. There were also many academies, many of which survive as schools today.

We enjoyed walking the pedestrian friendly streets, checking out the turban sporting Yi men and women, and having a peek at Sichuan tea house culture.

We left Huili on a mid-morning bus and were pretty beat when we arrived in Qiao Jia, Yunnan 7 hours later, having changed buses twice, and suffered through 3 instances of gridlock. Qiao Jia is set in a beautiful valley, just south of the Yangtze River which forms the Sichuan-Yunnan border in these parts. However, a planned mega-dam will flood some of the town and fields of grapes, mulberry, fava beans, wheat, and pear trees.

There is not much of interest in Qiao Jia, so we hopped on an 8:30AM bus for the 3-hour trip southeast to Huize, Yunnan. I snagged a seat next to the driver and the first hour was smooth until we hit backup caused by landslide repairs and a disabled truck. To make a long story short, it took us 90 minutes to get by the disabled truck. More on Huize in the next post.

Stalemate. Our bus on the right.


Yi man in Huili.


Yi woman.


Kindergarten on the site of a shrine dedicated to Cangjie, the creator of Chinese characters.


Huili's North Gate and Drum Tower.


View south from the North Gate towards the center Bell Tower. Check out the closed-circuit cameras.


Chinese Chess players at a one of the bigger tea houses in Huili.


Apse end of a church with Chinese architectural elements.