Kyrgyzstan: Bishkek

From Karakol we took the bus that went along the north shore of Issyk-Kul in the TianShan mountains to Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan. This time of the year snow capped mountains are still a backdrop for the city.



As a city, Bishkek only dates back to the 1800s, established by the Russians, and today has a million people. We spent much of our time looking at Soviet architecture and touring markets. It seems we have been to an extraordinary number of markets in Central Asia. I am beginning to wonder whether markets are a vestige of their nomadic heritage.

Nuts, dried fruits, and more at the Osh Bazaar.





We even made a pilgrimage of sorts to the Dordoi Bazaar, on the outskirts of the city. It turned out to be a highlight. This is a market, maybe the size of a dozen Home Depots, made entirely of shipping containers. Some have been cleverly disguised, most are stacked two tall with the shop on the first level and stock storage on the second level. The market seemed like a poster child of sustainable development.









Below are photos taken from our bus on the 6-hour journey along the north shore of Issyk-Kul from Karakol to Bishkek. The large building is a sports stadium (4th below), and home of the first three World Nomad Games (WNG).










Our apartment in Bishkek (our "city view" is 1st below) was directly behind the Soveiet-Era Sports Palace which "sports" the best equestrian statue we've ever seen (2nd below). Agree? It's a monument to the legendary wrestler Kozhomkul.






Bishkek was decorated for the upcoming 09 May Victory Day celebrations. Although the day commemorates the participation of the Soviet Republics in the 1945 victory over the Nazis, several local people told us "we are not so enthusiastic" as Kyrgyz people were disproportionately used as cannon fodder, while few ethnic Russians did not serve during World War II.






Leafy alamedas with drink ladies on many corners (2nd below): MAXIM (Coffee, Left), Chalap (Fermented Milk, Center), Kvass (Fermented Rye Bread, Right). Kvass is John's fav.






THe Orthodox churches in town were filled with flowers for Bright Week, the week after Orthodox Easter.








We found a 24/7 cafeteria, АШКАНА (ASHKANA) Dining Room Buffet, with friendly staff, and tasty vegetarian food at a reasonable price, and we ate 2 delicious meals there.






Soviet Modernist architecture in various states of repair, refurbishing, and glory.








Soviet Art.






More Soviet Modernist Architecture. First the National Library of Kyrgyzstan


Wedding Palace


Institute of Chemistry of the Academy of Sciences of Kyrgyzstan with Statue of Poet and Storyteller Kalyk Akiev




State Circus; and an Osh Bazaar panorama.

Kyrgyzstan: Karakol

Karakol, the fourth largest city in Kyrgyzstan, population ~80,000, is really a village by Chinese standards. It is at the eastern end of Issyk-Kul Lake, one of the largest salt lakes in the world, at above 5000 feet, the surrounding mountains were still topped with snow at the beginning of May. Due to its salinity, the lake doesn't freeze as Issyk means warm in Kyrgyz.

Like in Zharkent, the majority of the local population is Turkic/Mongolic. We timed our visit with the Sunday livestock market, super authentic. For the first time I realized most of the herds of sheep and cattle I have seen so far I couldn't tell the individuals apart if my life depended on it. Here every animal was very distinct, and there were a lot of them too, way more than people. It was a rather intense experience.

Afterwards we strolled through the outdoor Sunday market closer to town. We realized this is where they sell small animals, separate from bigger livestock. Next came the regular market housed in retired shipping containers - what an ingenious use! And although it was Orthodox Easter Sunday, there was no noticeable activity.

The view of the snow-capped TianShan mountains from downtown Karakol.


Our first day in Karakol we rode the public bus #116 down towards Issyk-Kul Lake, first stopping at a museum dedicated to the life and exploits of the Russian geographer and explorer Nikolai Przhevalsky (1st below) who died in Karakol in 1888 and is buried on site (2nd below) . Third below, a globe with Issyk-Kul Lake at upper-center.






From the hilltop museum we walked down to the shore of the lake. First below is a video of a shepherd and his flock. If the embedded video does not play, click here.












In Karakol, there are several Orthodox churches and a few Muslim mosques. The colorful Dungan Mosque, built in Chinese style, and its minaret are eye-catching.














The Sunday Livestock Market is a 45 minute walk from city center. It's both calm and busy. For the most part (except for the horse market area) the sellers patiently stand around, their animals on rope tethers, waiting for a buyer. Negotiations over price are quiet, and hard for us outsiders to see any "action". But when sales are made, there is much commotion as the new owner leads, carries, pushes or pulls, his purchase(s) to a truck and loads them in. Check out the videos embedded below, or here, here, and here.


















Over at the horse market, both sellers and buyers were riding horses around. Some (1st below) were checking out the ability of the horse for audaryspak, a traditional horseback wrestling sport (first below), where men wrestle while in the saddle. See this youtube video of an actual event.


Also in the horse area, there was a line at the farrier's stall.


There were quite a few cows-with-a-calf for sale. The mother is very attentive to her calf.


We walked back to town where the Sunday Market was well underway. We bought some dried fruit (2nd below).






Across the street was the daily market, with most shops made from retired shipping containers. Second below is a shop selling black salt in all sizes from boulder to grain.












We bought some bread and tasted food from 2 stalls. The lady selling traditional cold noodle soup, Ashlan-Fu, was a master.