More mate in Montevideo

It turns out that Uruguayans are even more steeped  in mate than Argentinians.  On the streets of Montevideo, one can be sure to spot mate paraphernalia constantly, in the stores or walking down the street.  We went into the National History Museum.  There it was in paintings.

This is the middle of the summer.  All I can think of is eating ice cream;  yet they insist on this hot drink.  Mate toting Uruguayans nestle their thermos in the crook of their arm, hold their gourd in their hand, twiddle the straw with their fingers.  Some do have spiffing looking carrying cases, but those must weigh a ton.  Walking around it in the city, I want to be unencumbered as possible; I load all my junk in my day pack. I probably would just have some strapping system.  This mate business is so unintuitive for me that it is simply adorable.

Mate is a traditional drink of indigenous South Americans as shown in this painting in the National History Museum.


Gourds, silver straws, cases, and thermoses for sale at a street market in downtown Montevideo.


Some photos of "mate men" at the Sunday street marker in Montevideo.








Man with mate case.

Uruguay grows on us

From Buenos Aires, an hour's catamaran ride took us to Colonia, Uruguay, a favored weekend destination for porteños (residents of Buenos Aires). While it comes in a little short for my standards for UNESCO World Heritage, we enjoyed it well enough. After a mere week in BsAs, we are beginning to appreciate the tranquility of small towns as porteños do.

A 2-hour bus ride took us to the capital of Uruguay, Montevideo. It has one tenth of the population of Buenos Aires. It fits my bill of a New World city, urban, but uncrowded. We think porteños like to imagine that BsAs used to be like Montevideo in the good old days. It has quite a few of those grand Art Deco buildings that we are always searching for. In fact we made a special excursion to Estadio Centenario where the very first World Cup was held in 1930 as Art Deco fans but not as futbal fans.

On Sunday we joined the thrones of locals as well as tourists through the Sunday Market. Blocks of city streets are closed for anyone to set up, from vegetables to antiques, from art works to Chinese imports, from DVD  to car parts....  There was such a genial vibe that even made me question ebay.

This cobblestone street in Colonia's old town is a favorite with tourists.


View from the top of the Colonia Lighthouse.


The Palacio Salvo, built in 1928 in a Deco-ish style, is a Montevideo icon.


The Estadio Centenario, built in 1928-1930 to host the 1930 World Cup, has a very cool Art Deco Tower.


Another grand Art Deco building; Edificio Lux.


Locals dancing in the cool of the evening in a downtown park - Montevideo, Uruguay.

The Sunday Market.


Horse carts seem to have a monopoly on recyclables in heart of Montevideo.