From Petra to the Dead Sea in Israel by Land

We had opted to dip in the Dead Sea on the Israel side rather than Jordan (mostly because there is more tourist infrastructure on the Israel side), on our way from Petra to Jerusalem. This route turned out to be not so easy.

From Petra, the minibus to Aqaba only leaves until full, then the Aqaba-to-border taxi is fixed at the extortionary price of 10JD for foreigners. After much deliberation, we arranged a private transfer 40JD ($56) for the 130km journey. We recommend our driver Talib (whatsapp 962778205710 - he goes all over Jordan). The drive was scenic.

Leaving Jordan was easy. We didn't even have to pay for a 10JD exit visa fee, since we flew into Jordan, supposedly. Entering Israel was a different matter. Without any preamble, the young immigration officer asked us - what were you doing in Lebanon? Then the questions went on - what other Arab countries have you been to? Do you have friends in Israel? Do you have friends in Lebanon? However, we didn't even get pulled into separate rooms, as other travellers had experienced.

The whole border crossing took us about 30 minutes. From the border, one could take a taxi into Eilat Bus Station and then get on a bus to the Dead Sea (BTW, the bus company Egged blocks access to their website from Jordan - Israelis fear cyber attacks from Jordonians!?). We opted for the more efficient route - walk 15 minutes to the main road and wait for the bus en route at a bus stop. That leaves the question of paying for the bus. After much research, I learned that the app moovit which we have been using for years and all over the world, is by an Israeli company. I can add my credit card and use it to pay for public transport in Israel. Much to our relief, it really worked!

I always thought floating in the Dead Sea is one of those things that had to be experienced rather than imagined, besides the Dead Sea is at -400masl. While I couldn't discern that I was breathing at -400masl, I could definitely tell the Dead Sea water is different. I indeed floated as expected, but I was surprised that I had to exert to keep my head up. On the other hand, my legs floated so much, I had a hard time coming to a standing position. So it took a little practice to find a comfortable position to remain floating. The water feels slick and oily to the skin, in the same way hard shower water leaves the skin feeling soapy. I am completely skeptical of the therapeutic nature of the water. With water from the Jordan River being diverted more and more for agriculture and not much rain get be counted on in the desert, it's a wonder that "taking" these waters hasn't started to make people sick. I certainly am not planning on a return visit to the Dead Sea, though the place is definitely set up for visitors. There are all manners of sea bathing infrastructure. John pointed out that was possible only because there is no tide. 

On the way south to the Jordan-Israel border, our driver stopped so we could photograph the awesome view.


Rolling into Aqaba. Our car will turn right and take us to the curb of the Jordan border facility. Nice!


And 90 minutes later we have crossed the border and are on the bus cruising north towards the Dead Sea.


Just before we get to the Dead Sea we pass this Salt Works.


Oh my! Still on the bus, the Google Maps says we are near a famous pillar of salt.


View from our Hotel Room.


And soon we are floating in the Dead Sea.




We are staying ar an upscale resort area called Ein Bokek with excellent public beach infrastructure, not to mention the very good public transportation connections; for example, there are frequent buses to Masada and back.






In the evening we went out for a walk.












The next morning we got up for sunrise, ate a trendous hotel breakfast, floated in the Dead Sea again (video below OR click here), and then hopped on the bus to Jerusalem

Jordan: Mixed Petra

Petra was established by the Arabic speaking Nabataeans in the 6th century BCE in a canyon that is reminiscent of Antelope Canyon in Arizona. The Nabataeans carved more than constructed their monuments, most during the 1st to 4th centuries CE.

We spent two days exploring the place. The second day being a Saturday, there were many South Asian guest workers from UAE enjoying their day off. I had not expected the need to avoid weekend crowds at Petra. Day 1: We visited the Treasury, Monastery, and Museum. Day 2: We walked to the Royal Tombs, Treasury Vista II, and High Place of Sacrifice.

I loved the canyon part. Traipsing around to see archeological sites is usually interesting, though I am afraid everything seems anticlimactic after Egypt. We had several other issues with Petra.

The place is full of aggressive souvenir stands, camel/donkey/horse rides, tea shops, toutes of every kind, and whatnots. There is more peddling and commercialism than a village fair. All the best viewpoints are occupied by "tea shops" which are really eyesores. While it is not exactly trashy, there is usually some piece of trash in sight. I wouldn't have begrudged all this, if we didn't already pay $109 US each for a 2-day Petra Jordan Pass. (BTW, If one needs a 2km golf cart lift, that's $25US one way and $40US roundtrip).

There is exactly socialism for the rich (guaranteed money by Jordan Pass) and capitalism for the poor (bedouins scrambling after tourists on what must have been their land). Just while we were there, we witnessed a fist fight break out between two young camel drivers. The real winners of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade are not Harrison Ford or Steven Spielberg, they are the corrupt Jordanian officials. We have been to hundreds of UNESCO sites. Petra is by far the most poorly managed. 

Walking to the Treasury via the Siq (Shaft), 1.2 kms of narrow gorge.








The so-called Treasury as seen from ground level and the vista point above.










The get to the start of the climb up to the Monastery, one passes the stunning Nabatean/Roman Theatre cut out of the red rocks, the Byzantine Church and its mosaics, and the tumbled, colorful columns of the Lion's Temple.






It's a steep walk or donkey ride up to the Monastery from where there are fine western views towards Palestine.








After walking down from the Monastery, winding through more visitors, donkeys, and horses, we stopped to check out the remains of the Qasr al-Bint temple and the massive Great Temple which was probably a civic building, not a temple.








Highlights of the Great Temple for us were the huge hexagonal flagstones of the courtyard, the small theater embedded in the main section, and the tumble-down columns.








Walking back to the entrance through the Siq.


The Site Museum.


Giant Letters.


The 2nd day at Petra we first walked past the Royal Tombs, carved out of the rock, to get on the trail up to the Treasury Vista.






View from the Royal Tombs.


The old trail to the Treasure Vista has great views to the west including looking down on the Nabatean/Roman Theatre.






The Treasury is to the right. A tea seller's tent at left is perched on the best viewing point.


Finally we walk up the old path to the Twin Obelisks and High Place of Sacrifice. Video link here.










View down to Royal Tombs.


Walking back down the old trail.