Lebanon: Unlikable Beirut

In keeping with our usual bad luck, we picked the most inopportune time to visit Beirut.  I would have skipped Lebanon if we didn't already have non refundable plane tickets in and out of Beirut. In February  the official Lebanese Pound (LL) devalued by 90% from 1500 to $1 to 15,000  Three days before our arrival, the Lebanese pound approached 140,000 to one USD on the black market, banks and pharmacies closed their doors. Protests and riots ensued. I was sweating for the Lebanese and ourselves.

Then the Central Bank removed limits on exchange to dollars, the rate went back down to around 107,000 to $1. Things calmed, and thankfully remained so for the week (March 23-30) we were there. It is very disconcerting being in a failed state. 

• The largest bill is 100,000 LLs which is less than $1, and they are all brand new.
• Electricity only comes a few hours a day. Our hotel gets the rest from a private market, so we had 24-hour electricity, albeit with many flickers.
• After the riots, the center of downtown was still barricaded off. It's a ghost town. The few tourists in town were allowed to roam around inside the barricades.
• Amidst such a crisis the top news was what time the country was observing. Because of Ramadan fasting, Lebanon wasn't going on daylight saving times this year. Then there was enough opposition, on the Thursdays it was. 

Even before this state of things, I would not have liked Beirut. Beirut must be the most modern and developed city without any public transportation, at least where I have been. Instead there are glitzy shopping centers.and soulless residential/commercial development. The city has this hedonistic vibe, without any regard to social and societal issues. This extreme inequality is even worse than LA. No wonder they are having problems!

On a positive note, we met so many wonderful Lebanese people, very welcoming and helpful, which makes the current situation all the more heartbreaking.

The National Museum of Beirut was very good. The museum building is Art Deco style circa 1930's.


How about this Sarcophagus with a scene from the life of Achilles, 2nd century AD?


And these marble, anthropomorphic sarcophagi 4th century BC. Wow!


We walked along the Corniche several times, people watching and enjoying the views of the Mediterranean. Although there were some very decrepid buildings there.












Art Deco Clock Tower and Assicurazioni Generali Building in Nejmeh Square.




The Roman Baths below the tightly guarded and off limits Parliament Building are surrounded by a nice park.




Our apartment in Beirut was on an alley off Hamra Street that was quiet during the day and a bit noisy after the Ramadan fast was broken at sunset. Below is an early morning view.


One day for lunch we tried out Luna's Kitchen which bills itself as " Beirut's First 24/7 Vegan Diner". Average. LK is located on the ground floor of a colorful modern apartment building.




Another day we ate Lentil Soup and Fatoosh at Whistles Snacks. Second photo below shows the prices. 200,000 Lebanese Pounds for a Fatoosh Salad! Talk about inflation!




We checked out the Archaeological Museum at the American University of Beirut, AUB. Below is a photo of the main entrance to AUB.


Bus route #4.

Lebanon: Tripoli completes the picture

On our last day we went up to Tripoli. We were very glad that we made it to and out of Tripoli before we left Lebanon. The second largest city, Tripoli is the antithesis of the glitz of Beirut. The old town is very traditional. Very little English is spoken. The old center is dotted with century old mosques, medersas, khans.... I imagine life changes slowly here.

The Crusader Citadel, extended by subsequent rulers, is the city's premier tourist attraction. It is still used as a military post. We walked by tanks to reach the ticket office. Sorry, no photos below for obvious reasons. There were as many soldiers toting automatic weapons as museum workers. That part itself was not disconcerting. We'd often see more of them on the streets in France. It wasn't until later, I realized that the UK Foreign Office specifically advises "against all but essential travel" to "the city of Tripoli." Upwards of 20% of the city's residents are refugees from Syria, not that the city is brimming with economic opportunity to start with. Lack of opportunity leads to discontent which breeds conflicts... not that we don't have such problems back home in the US.

We rode the Connexion Bus from their Martyr's Square Station (first below - bus can be seen at left) to their station in Tripoli (second). It's 300 LL pp each way.






Some views from the bus on the way up the Mediterranean coast.




When we arrived in Tripoli, the rain was light, but the wind was blowing at 40mph with gusts to 60. It took us a while to get our bearings, even with a pretty good map from the Tourist Office located across the roundabout from the bus station. First stop on our walking tour is the Clock Tower on Tell Square.


The Art Deco Style Lebanese National Theatre (former Empire Cinema) is also on Tell Square. Wow!


Along the way to the Grand Mosque we were pleased to spot a few more mid-20th-century buildings.






We arrived at the Grand Mosque between prayer times and were welcomed into the porticoed courtyard; nice, out of the elements.




The Grand Mosque is adjacent to a series of very long souks, madrasas (Islamic schools) and other mosques. Very atmospheric. Many of the older mosques and madrasas in Tripoli feature a distinctive black and white exterior. First below is a madrasa with the black and white pattern and a couple of Corinthian columns.


Sun-Ling (green jacket with hood) in the souk (covered market).








As we walked up the stairs to the Castle/Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gille the rain stopped but the wind kept blowing.


The Citadel is an up and down and around maze of stones with tremendous views in all directions. East across the river (below).


West towards the Mediterranean Sea with the green roofs of the Grand Mosque below.


South across the Citadel to adjacent apartments.


Northeast across the river.


View west with blue sky and the sea to the upper right.


And a final view of the fortifications and the city beyond.


Down from the Citadel and into the Gold Souk.


The old Khan/Han where caravans would rest.


Hammam (public bath).


More souks.






We turn around at the so-called Soldier's Khan, a barracks, and head back to the bus station through the French Quarter. How about this vintage VW van?






Church.


The beautiful Taynal Mosque. I failed to get a decent photo.


And back at our hotel we enjoyed a tasty Buzz lager to end our day.