Copan

A friend who had recently been to Tikal and Copan commented to us that he liked Copan better. Which of the two Mayan ruins would I like the most?

1. The Copan Ruins Archaeological Park
While Copan's Grand Plaza is not as grand as Tikal's, and its pyramids are not as high as those of Tikal, it more than makes up for it in richly carved glyphs and designs on stelas and buildings, still clearly visible having weathered in the tropical sun for over a millennium -- these people were very sophisticated! We spent most of the first day at the ruins, and a couple of hours at the site museum on the second afternoon. The museum has lots of good stuff too; the highlight of which was a full size replica of the Rosalia Temple, an exact copy of the one nearly perfectly preserved under one of the pyramids.

2. Scarlet Macaws - Guacamaya Roja in Spanish
The park keeps a flock of scarlet macaws at the entrance. They put out food and provide shelter for the birds who fly around freely. The park keeps them with the ease of someone else keeping pigeons. I had read about the macaws yet I was amazed when I saw them. One can see ruins everywhere, especially in this part of the world, but scarlet macaws, nobody else has them. We went back the second afternoon solely to visit with the macaws again. When the birds swoop down and fly by next to me, it feels like the opening sequence of some fantasy movie. I was thoroughly enchanted!

3. Copan Ruinas (the town)
The town of Copan Ruinas is just one kilometer from the park. At over 2000 feet it is the coolest place we have been so far. It is a pretty village which attracts travelers and hang-outers alike. The second morning our walk happened to take us to the village of "La Pintada" where Peace Corp volunteers were working with the village children. A few of the vilage girls were hopeful that we would buy their corn husk dolls. None asked begged for anything. We were lucky. A young boy named Milton solemnly escorted us to the viewpoint from which one can see down to the ruins. And on the walk back to town, we were offered and accepted a ride in a very ancient pickup truck. Lastly, a German named Thomas has opened a micro-brewery in town. John enjoyed a home-brew each afternoon.

So the answer is "yes" I liked Copan more than Tikal.

Scarlet Macaw video. If you can't view the embedded video, click here.


And more macaw photos:





Rosalia Temple replica in the Sculpture Museum at Copan (with John).


One of the stelae.


Several views of the Grand Plaza.




The Famous Hieroglyphic Staircase.


The East Plaza.


A stele in the West Plaza.

El Estor to Copan + Another Border Crossing

From El Estor we expected to get to Copan in one day, but with several transfers and a border crossing. I was researching furiously when we learned from the very nice owners of the Calle Real Hotel that there is a direct bus to the Honduras border (El Florido) that leaves from Rio Dulce at 9AM. But... will we have to pay a bribe to leave Guatemala? Enter Honduras?

We set out from our hotel at 6:30AM. Since it was early in the morning there were field hands riding the El Estor to Rio Dulce colectivo (van) with us, going to work at the rubber plantations with their machetes shielded in fancy leather cases or simple plastic woven bags.

We got to Rio Dulce around 8:15. Our onward bus pulled out just after 9:00 We picked up and dropped off passenger making steady progress. We made the 187 kilometers to Chiquimula at 1:15PM, decent time, where 90% of the bus got off. This is where the bus changed pace completely (with the same driver); gassing up, cigarette breaks, leaving the main road to stop in villages. We went the next 38km in 2 hours and 45 minutes. Somewhere along the way to the border, we realized that the people in the know got off the bus at Chiquimula and switched to swifter alternatives. Well! But we did see a cool procession.

At the border, the Guatemalan Immigration guy asked for 10 Quetzales (~$1.25US) of bribe; this time we are leaving Guatemala. Once again, we asked to see where it is written down and can we get a receipt. After a close reading of our passports, especially mine (I'm worried that I won't have enough space to last me the rest of the trip and I'll have to bribe a border official to squeeze in a stamp), they decided we were free to exit Guatemala, without paying. Yeah!

Entering Honduras was much more straight forward. A sign clearly states that non-Centroamericanos have to pay $3US and we got a receipt without asking. I wish Guatemala would simply change their rules and start charging all the tourists, forgoing the sleazy bribe business.

It was almost 5PM where we finally pulled into Copan. It is dry and cooler here at 2000 ft elevation. Nice. Stay tuned for our experiences in the Mayan Ruins of Copan.

Rio Dulce has a Caribbean vibe with sailboats, harbors, docks, and water. [John walked to the top of the bridge while we were waiting for the bus.]


The procession that stopped us for 10 minutes or so near Jocotán, Guatemala, very close to the Honduran border.


The view of the border from the Honduran side. Not very impressive. The yellow building with the wide roof is Honduran Customs.

Lago de Izabal - El Estor and Rio Dulce

Our jaunt through Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador was really the result of trying to score the Mayan ruins of Tikal and Copan. We identified Rio Dulce, Guatemala as a place to break up the trip between the two ruins. The problem was Rio Dulce seemed a little too touristy. We decided to forgo the obligatory boat ride between Rio Dulce and Livingston, and make a detour to the small town of El Estor, located on Lake Izabal.

I did not think El Estor was worthwhile. I had thought that it may turn out to be the only non touristy town for our Guatemala tour. The downside of non touristy towns is limited hotel selection. Of the three hotels on the lake, one was closed due to the dueña's illness; another had cells for rooms and Mr. Surly for a manager; we stayed one night at the third one but due to the ill-plumbed bathroom, we had to move to a land-view hotel but with very nice owners. Also, two boys came up to me and asked for a quarter and another for sweets -- my #1 pet peeve: lack of dignity and lack of manners. In addition, we had the most rain so far too. It seemed to shower continuously in the afternoons.

El Estor is not without attractions. 7 kms east is Bogueron Canyon where the Rio Sauce flows out of a jungle canyon and into the lake. Although we found the boat ride into canyon to be quite dramatic with hanging vines, overhead rocky walls, and howler monkeys, it was barely worth the time, effort and money for the excursion from town.

Lago Izabel.


We enjoyed eating a couple of meals at Arabella's


Boqueron Canyon.


The "V" is Boqueron Canyon.


Municipal Buildings - El Estor, Guatemala

Flores Lakeside

Flores, a colorful town on a small island on Lago Petén Itzá, is an obligatory stop when visiting Tikal.

Ensconced in the Hotel Santana for a night, we did nothing more than gaze at the lake, stroll over the causeway to St Elena to gather provisions and check out the bus station, and gaze at the lake.

Note to fellow travelers: Although St Elena and the bus terminal have been reported to be seedy and unsafe, we ate lunch there, bought avocados and oranges from a roadside vendor, found a panaderia, and bought a gallon of water from a supermarket. Seemed tranquillo to us.

Flores as seen from St Elena.


Gazing at the lake.




The lake with canoe, pier, and swimmer.


A Flores back street.

Tikal, but first, Another Border Crossing

In order to guarantee a hassle-free speedy trip from from St Ignacio, Belize to Tikal in Guatemala we eschewed public transport and paid for a private transfer. Speedy it was, hassle free, no.

In short, Sun-Ling bargained down the suggested "bribe" to enter Guatemala from 3 US$ each to 1 US$ each. Another Spanish language lesson. [Oficially, US citizens should pay no fee to enter Guatemala.]

Tikal is considered to be among the most impressive of the Mayan ruins. John was impressed. Sun-Ling was only so impressed. haha. [See the photos below.]

Impressed or not, we both enjoyed navigating around the site, climbing the ruins, viewing wildlife and watching the local and foreign visitors. Our visit to Tikal was on a Sunday when admission is free for Guatemalans, so at noon, the old Grand Plaza of the Mayans was the site of more than several modern picnics.

Tikal National Park is a vast jungle preserve (over 200 square miles) so we saw and heard vultures, hawks, 2 pale-billed woodpeckers, ocellated turkeys, hummingbird, many other birds, butterflies, spider and howler monkeys, a deer, a grey fox, an unknown large rodent, and the ubiquitous coatis.

We spent the night inside the National Park at the Tikal Inn which allowed us to spend more time in the ruins - leaving after dark with flashlights in hand - and to take short walk in the morning before leaving for Flores.

The two of us in front of Temple I.


Sun-Ling descending a Group R pyramid.


View from Temple IV to to Temple I and Temple II.


Temple I is at the eastern end of the Grand Plaza.


Temple I (right) and the Grand Plaza.


The Central Acropolis with Temple V sticking up in the back.


Sunset view of the Grand Plaza.