We were mainly using Braga as a base for visiting:
1) Guimaraes (pronounced give-me-rash really fast)
Guimaraes, a university town, lacked the usual liveliness. It was a European Cultural Capital a few ago, though I found it only moderately interesting. We then charged up the hill of Penha which turned out to be very satisfying, the panoramic views, interesting rock formations, impressive shrine....
2) Citania Briteiros
Citania Briteiros is a Celtic (or Castro) site from the first two centuries BCE. Having hit so many Roman sites lately, we found the round buildings highly unusual; the ritual bath site incredible! Though geographically within Guimaraes, we concluded it is only possible to visit on public transport on a Sunday from Braga. From the bus stop, there is a well marked trail that goes to 2kms the site and then 2kms more to the museum; then ~3 kms back to bus stop on the third side of the triangle.
3) Bom Jesus do Monte
Bom Jesus is a church on a hill in the suburb of Braga, famous for its Baroque staircase. We had been forewarned of is underwhelming-ness; it was over even faster than I had expected; though it remains very impressive looking to me. We then walked up farther up the hill to another church, Sameiro, for a more sweeping view.
While none of the sites are particularly spectacular, combined with walking/hiking, made Braga more enjoyable for us.
Braga's City Gate, which is at the lower end of a long pedestrian-only street.
A free concert in the Cathedral to open the Organ Festival.
View in Guimaraes looking up to Penha (upper left). We walked up (photos below) and took the cable car down.
The two main sights in Guimaraes are the Ducal Palace and the Castle.
There are several lovely squares in the Old Town.
We stopped at Clarinha's for soup, a beer, and a taste of the town's specialty pastries.
Oh, and Guimaraes is said to be the birthplace of Portugal; the first king was born here.
Then up the hill to Penha. On the way up we see this guy doing some laundry in an old fashioned stone lavandería. A trend. Stay tuned.
Big stones at the top.
View back to Guimaraes.
The church at the top of the Penha.
And down on the teleférico (cable car).
Back in Guimaraes, we catch another concert of the Organ Festival; this one in another church.
Then a night walk around town.
We take bus #83 to the Braga-Guimaraes border, and walk 2 kms to Citânia de Briteiros, the ruins of a fortified Bronze Age settlement, on a wet, cloudy, windy day.
And the incredible Baths.
And the main stone from another bathhouse is in the site museum.
And on the morning before we take an afternoon train to Viana do Castleo, we take bus #23 to the foot of the famous stairs that lead up to Bom Jesus de Monte; with fountains, chapels, and statues abounding.
View from the top.
And over to the Santuario Sameiro with its massive portal.
And some final shots of Braga, including my "taste testing" ;-) of a McDonald's McVeggie - it was OK.
2 comments:
Did you climb the steps to the Bom Jesus? I did it the first time (on feet, not knees!) and was grossed out by the stations of the cross. The second time there was funicular/cable car and I cheated.
@Kathy, what I meant was that walking up the steps was over much quicker than it looked. Some of the Five Senses fountains did look a little gruesome. I didn't bother with all the stations, but the ones I did see looked fine and elaborate.
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