Bellisimo Siciliani

Right before we left, our book group discussed an interesting book. Among the many takeaways of the book is the idea that the relationship between the butcher and customer does not necessarily have to be solely based on economics.  Maybe because the author is Italian, I feel that relationship very keenly in Sicily, in spite of any language barrier.

1. After seeing all the orange groves from the bus, I decided to get some oranges from a mobile green grocer in Agrigento.   For the few oranges/tangerines,  it was only one euro.  He threw in an extra tangerine, when I mumbled something in Italian, he was like - Why?!  That's Siciliano, and proceeded to apology for the bad weather....

2. On our walk back from to town from Villa Romana, young Salvatore who just got off from his job at the Archaeological Park picked us on the road (Liz: I sat next to a baby seat in the back), took us to the bus terminal, and went inside to inquire about the reduced schedule for Sunday for our onward travels.   This is someone works for the #1 attraction in all of Sicily where, most of the year, thousands of tourists come through each day.

3. At a cafeteria-style restaurant in Trapani, we arrived after the big rush and were busy figuring out what vegetarian food they had. The manager quietly laid out two trays for us. When we paid, he gave us bread and said it was free. Their menu clearly lists a charge for bread.

4. When we stepped in the Archaeological Museum in Siracusa, a researcher type guy happened to be walking by with two prehistorical pots, one in each hand.  He stopped in his track to greet us and highly recommended the special coin exhibit.  I wanted to just thank him so he can go on with his pots, but John had to ask about the finds from Pantalica.  The researcher regretted that exhibit was closed, but if John had special interest in Pantalica....  At that point, John finally caught on.  I was relieved the two prehistorical pots escaped unharmed from all the distraction.

5.  No matter how thick traffic gets, drivers always stop promptly for pedestrians.  I'd be a lot more impatient.  The same goes with any queues.  We always get our answers/explanations regardless of the length of the queue.

I can go on....  I just hope that I don't get deeper in love, or I'd have to take up Italian.

Sun-Ling and green grocer in Agrigento.

Catania - Day Trip to Mount Etna

Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world according to wikipedia, looms over Catania and surrounds. Many daytrippers like ourselves take the public AST bus from Catania to Refugio Sapienza at 1910 meters (~6200 feet) then walk or funicular or jeep up to 2500 meters, then walk up to 2900 meters, the highest point accessible to tourists/hikers; Etna's summit is at 3,329 meters or 10,922 ft.

In March the higher slopes of Mount Etna are covered in snow, so we planned to link 3 short hikes, starting at Refugio Sapienza, into a longer hike that stayed below 2000 meters. However, the weather looked to be uncooperative, with reports of snow, wind and rain at 2000 meters. And our own visual sightings of Etna found it almost always covered in clouds.

But on Palm Sunday morning, our last full day in Sicily, we caught the 8:15 am bus to Refugio Sapienza. Lucky for us the weather report for 1900 meters called for sun, high temperature of 50 F, and winds about 20 mph. Unfortunately as we headed up and up, the bus hit the snow line at 1600 meters and we could see that one of trails we intended to hike was covered in snow. Hmm. What to do? It's about 10:00 and the return bus is scheduled for 4:30. Over 6 hours to kill.

To make a long story shorter, we had a great time. Many locals drove up to Etna to enjoy snow activities, mainly sledding and making snowmen. There is more than one road to Refugio Sapienza, so we first walked east for a few kilometers, then west. It turned out to be a great day at Etna. However, we'll have to return one day, not in the winter, to do some more hiking.

Etna from about 1800 meters, approaching Refugio Sapienza


Refugio Sapienza is a group of cafes, souvenir stands, hotels, and parking lots, at the base of the chair lift. That's Silvestri Crater at right.


After getting off the bus we headed over to walk around the rim of the Silvestri Crater, a must-do for all Etna visitors: the tour buses park right in front of it. ;-)


The rim of Silvestri was very windy. Sun-Ling was terrified she would be blown either into the crater or over the side. But we made it around.






Folks were sledding both inside and outside of the crater; and having lots of fun.






After surviving Silvestri we headed east on the plowed roads, slowly descending to 1700 meters, eating lunch with a view, then returning.


It was a beautiful day, even the cyclists were out.


Although we were above the snow line, we were below the tree line.


Lunch view.


Random shot.


Sledders.


After watching the sledding for a bit, we descended west to the 1800 meter mark and then back.

Catania - Day Trip to Taormina

After more than two weeks of busing around Sicily we were able to take the train to Taormina (and back) for a day of walking in the hills with views to the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. Taormina is perched 200 meters above the sea and its main drag it very touristic, but on this lovely low-season Saturday we found it very pleasant. But still not warm enough for a gelato. ;-)

Catania Station.


I almost always find it a pleasure to ride the train, especially on a coastal route.


Even if I can't see Mt Etna because it's behind me. haha.


Taormina Station is labeled Art Deco by the guide books. Well, maybe. It certainly is decorated.






The steps from the station up to city center (200 meters) turned out to be an overgrown path.


But the views were great.
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Our outward route took us straight through town up to Castello Saraceno (400 meters) with a view to the Ancient Greek Theater (upper left-ish).


And continuing up to the small town of Castelomola (550 meters) with views down to Castello Saraceno and Taormina.


Small church in Castelmola.


We returned via a different route; steps down through abandoned terraces that once contained olive and orange groves but now are overgrown with cacti.


Back in Taormina at the bottom of the steps/stairs.


Some shots of Taormina's corso (main drag). First Cantania Gate.


The Cathedral and fountain. Today is the Saturday before Palm Sunday - notice the woven palm fronds for sale.




Inside the Cathedral.


And after foregoing the ancient theater - 10 euros each seemed a bit pricey - we sat in the Public Gardens for a time, then headed back down the overgrown path to the train station.






Taormina Station.


And back in Catania, a stop at the newly opened Istanbul Restaurant for a take-out dinner.

Catania - Day Trip to Ragusa

Ragusa, like Noto was destroyed in the 1693 earthquake and then rebuilt in the Baroque style both "in place" and on an adjacent higher hill. Our original plan had us overnighting in Ragusa, but the modification to daytripping from Catania proved to be a good choice as both the bus station and train station turned out to be quite a hike to/from Ilba, the Old Town where we planned to sleep. In addition the sights can be seen in a few hours.

There were a few views of Mount Etna from the bus window as we headed south from Catania to Ragusa.


And a few ridges covered with windmills.


As usual for the trip so far, there was a rain shower as we walked into town past this modernist clock tower.


But the Tourist Office was friendly (with a helpful free map) and we carefully headed down the 200+ slippery steps of Via Scale to the Old Town; after poking our heads in to the Cathedral during a funeral - whoops.


At the top of Via Scale with great views to Ilba.




Inside the Church of Purgatory in Ilba.


The highlight of Ilba is the exterior of the Baroque Duomo and the sloping piazza in front.




The nearby Chiesa di San Giuseppe has a beautiful ceiling. We almost didn't get to see it as the nuns were closing the doors as we walked up, but an intrepid tour guide persuaded them to stay open for 2 more minutes (for her group) so we piggy-backed our way in.


One of the old city gates.


And a few more views; one looking up to the newer city from the base of Via Scala and then some back to Ilba.






And finally the Ragusa Post Office.