Special Tour to Vilcashuaman

From Ayacucho, we made a special trip to Vilcashuaman, where the north-south Inca Road along the Andes crosses the east-west Inca Road going from the Amazon to the coast; an epicenter? Alas modern day versions of those roads miss the town by a wide margin. We had to make exceptions for two of our rules 1) not day-tripping more than 1-1.5 hours one way 2) not going on tours. We had already observed during this trip that there are a good number of Peruvians going around touring.To save time, once they reach their destination, they get on day tours that take them various tourist attractions. The tour more or less turned out to be just acceptable, wasted too much time on lunch, just enough time at Vilcashuaman. [John adds: "Photo ops, toilet stops" as sung to the tune of Junk by Paul McCartney. But seriously, The van was comfortable, the driver professional, and the guide was patient and knowledgeable, and spoke clear Spanish.]

Today Vilcashuaman is still an inhabited village. It would be otherwise unremarkable, except their church sits right on top of what is obviously a massive Inca temple. There are various other Inca structures throughout the village, big and small. I found the the place particularly sad. I don't think I have been anywhere that spelled decline more thoroughly than Vilcashuaman.

The tour had three destinations: Puyas de Raymondi (Giant Bromeliads), Intihuatana Archaeological Site, and Vilcashuaman Archaeological Site. First, the astounding Giant Bromeliads which were tall, flowering, and habitat for birds and bees.




It's planting time for corn as we see on the drive from the Bromeliads to the Intihuatana archaeological site.


Intihuatana is on a lake and features great views and lots of Inca stonework.







Check out the snake and flamingo reliefs.













And water channels.


Embedded Video.


Or click here for the link.

After lunch it's Vilcashuaman where the Spanish-built church sits right on top of an Incan Temple.


And just across the way is a 5-level pyramid and several surviving gates.




More shots of the plaza and church.






View from the church to the 5-level pyramid.


Sacrificial Stone.


Divining Stone. Water flowing down the 2 channels meet; then, the single stream will flow left, center, or right as determined by the Gods.


We head back to Ayacucho and as we descend to town we see a rainbow in the far hills. Wow!

Ayacucho: Andean Dancing

By both chance and diligence we happened upon a regional school folk dance competition while in Ayacucho.  The event started with all the local teams parading/dancing in the street.  It is very refreshing to see young people carrying on traditional art and costumes.  Furthermore, there were about as many boys dancing as girls!  Types of dance we saw that I was able to identify through research:

Scissors dance: intangible UNESCO
Huayno: most popular Andean dance,  pairs of male/female dancers

Huaylas: pairs, agrarian celebration

Kcajelo: horsemanship, whip

Pukllay: carnival like orgy scene 

Carnaval de Culluchaca: festive dancing

Los abuelitos de Quipán:  parody of a group of old men

I was so captivated by the kids' energy and dedication, we stayed until the end.  My favorite team that I spotted way back on the street, before I even realized that there was going to be a competition, won!  There was never a happier ending.  The irony of the whole thing is that the competition took place at the Mariscal Cáceres military school, a far cry from Mario Vargas Llosas' The City and Dogs.

The front of the parade goes through the Plaza.


And more, colorful teams.






This video is 60 secs and shows 4 of the teams parading by. Lots of energy! Costumes!


The venue. The stage is at left with announcer, and a combination of live and prerecorded music.


Most of the videos below are 15 to 25 second clips. You won't get bored. ;-) [My camera phone has a 15-sec video setting.]

Agrarian celebration dances.


















Pukllay: carnival like orgy. The winners!!!














Scissors.


Unknown type of dance.




Huayno.