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Sunday, June 25, 2023

Return to Raleigh

Hey Everyone!

We are back home in Raleigh after a stress free day of flights from Baku, Azerbaijan to Istanbul to Boston to Raleigh.

The blog is about a month behind. Look for posts from the Caucasus (Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan) in the coming weeks. Not to mention we still owe you reports on our visit to Italy last Fall.

It's good to be home. Thanks for reading!

-john and sun-ling

Thursday, June 22, 2023

Turkey: Enigmatic Trabzon

From Sivas, we headed north toward the Black Sea, on our way to Georgia. We opted for the 6-hour bus ride from Sivas to Trabzon, instead of the 5-hour train to Samsun plus another 5-hour bus to Trabzon. The bus ride itself was rather scenic.

Trabzon is a much touted destination by all the guidebooks. We don't quite understand. Maybe it's because we skipped the number one attraction, Sumela Monastery. After much investigation, we decided against going 1)the minibus doesn't allow enough time 2)the admission price is too high 3)the weather didn't seem too clear.

We stayed in town for the two days we were there. While Trabzon itself does have some tourist attractions, the newly built Boztepe Skywalk high up on the hill was a highlight. The thing is a whole kilometer long. It seems so extravagant - how many municipalities around the world would build such a thing? I loved walking on it, as everyone else around. Trabzon could really use a seafront promenade, where they have an expressway now. It looks like they are building a new road higher up on the hill. Maybe Trabzon will have a seafront promenade. This is just an example of how Turkey is developing to make cities better for the people.

We visited the Santa Maria Catholic Church (active) and the ex Hagia Sophia church, now a mosque. In both cases there are young muslims poking showing intellectual curiosity, something we didn't not see in the Arab countries. From what I read, Trabzon is supposed to be a conservative city. We happened to learn that the small hotel we stayed at the other 10 rooms were all Saudis. Do they feel more at home in Trabzon? Everything I read about Turkey mentions how the country is becoming more conservative. To me, it seems way more secular than Israel. For that matter, is Turkey or the US more secular?

On the Turay bus, with a 1 x 2 seat config, from Sivas to Trabzon.
On the Turay Bus from Sivas to Trabzon, Turkey

On the Bus from Sivas to Trabzon, Turkey

On the Bus from Sivas to Trabzon, Turkey

The requisite rest stop wash down. ;-)
Rest Stop - On the Bus from Sivas to Trabzon, Turkey

Rest Stop - On the Bus from Sivas to Trabzon, Turkey

On the free shuttle bus from Trabzon Bus Station to the Maidan (city center).
On the Free Shuttle to City Center Trabzon, Turkey

Trabzon was a nice 3-night stop for us. Our hotel room had a balcony with a view of the Black Sea, and we found a very "vegetarian friendly" restaurant, Kalender Lokanta ve Kafe, on our first night in town.
Trabzon, Turkey

View of the Black Sea from our Hotel Room Balcony - Trabzon, Turkey

Kalender Lokanta ve Kafe - Trabzon, Turkey

Dessert! - Kalender Lokanta ve Kafe - Trabzon, Turkey

Some shots from up on the Boztepe Skywalk.
Black Sea View from the Boztepe Skywalk - Trabzon, Turkey

Walking up to Boztepe - Trabzon, Turkey

Black Sea View - Walking up to Boztepe - Trabzon, Turkey

Black Sea View from the Boztepe Skywalk - Trabzon, Turkey

Black Sea View from the Boztepe Skywalk - Trabzon, Turkey

15-Second Video - Black Sea View from the Boztepe Skywalk - Trabzon, Turkey

Santa Maria Church
Santa Maria Church - Trabzon, Turkey

Santa Maria Church - Trabzon, Turkey

Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). Formerly a church, now a mosque.
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Mosque - Trabzon, Turkey

Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Mosque - Trabzon, Turkey

Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Mosque - Trabzon, Turkey

Some shots along the Black Sea waterfront, from port to amphitheatre.
Cruise Ship in Port - Trabzon, Turkey

Trabzon, Turkey

Trabzon, Turkey

And a few more pics from around the downtown.
Trabzon, Turkey

Adding the Pomegranate Sauce  to the Cig Kofte - Trabzon, Turkey

Election - Trabzon, Turkey

Ortahisar District, Old Town, Trabzon, Turkey

The beautiful Gulbahar Hatun Mosque.
Gulbahar Hatun Mosque - Trabzon, Turkey

Gulbahar Hatun Mosque - Trabzon, Turkey


Sunday, June 18, 2023

Turkey: Accidental Sivas

We only stopped in Sivas, because it was a convenient place to break up the trip from Cappadocia to the Black Sea. It was a pleasant surprise. 

The madrasas (Islamic schools) and hans (Ottoman inns) built during the 12th-13th centuries during Selcuk rule are well preserved and beautifully restored. These are among the oldest Islamic monuments in Anatolia. It was the Selcuks that defeated the Byzantines and installed Islam and more significantly, the Turkish language, in Anatolia. This tour of ours really made me realize that languages tend to endure conquests much better than religions. 

There were good views of Mount Erciyes (12,848 feet) on the bus from Goreme to Sivas.
Mount Erciyes @ 3,917 meters (12,848 feet) - On the Bus from Goreme to Sivas, Turkey

Walking down the street in city center Sivas.
Sivas, Turkey

Sivas, Turkey

Sivas, Turkey

Çifte Minareli Medrese
Çifte Minareli Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Çifte Minareli Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Gök Medrese
Gök Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Gök Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Gök Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Gök Medrese - Sivas, Turkey

Buruciye Medresesi - Now, a very popular cafe. We were very surprised to see quite a few women smoking cigarettes in these outdoor cafes - many in hijab.
Buruciye Medresesi - Sivas, Turkey

Buruciye Medresesi - Sivas, Turkey

Sifaiye Madrasah - Another busy cafe.
Sifaiye Madrasah - Sivas, Turkey

Sivas City Hall.
City Hall - Sivas, Turkey

Taşhan (17th Century Ottoman Inn)
Taşhan  (17th Century Ottoman Inn) - Sivas, Turkey

Dinner at Cadde, a new cig kofte (1st below, left) eatery where the pomegranate sauce (2nd below) makes the cig kofte lettuce rolls great. Cig kofte is finely ground bulgur wih tomato, spices and mint.
CADDE Çiğköfte (Cig Kofte) - Sivas, Turkey

Pomegranate Sauce - CADDE Çiğköfte (Cig Kofte) - Sivas, Turkey


Saturday, June 17, 2023

UPDATED: Turkey: Popular Cappadocia

Cappadocia, famous for its distinctive landscape of "eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create houses, churches and underground cities"[Wikipedia]. It is the second (to Istanbul) most popular tourist destination in Turkey. We were not disappointed, though some of the "touristic" developments are quite disconcerting. There are hundreds of ATVs around, thankfully all parked during our visit, except a dozen or so in action. We also saw a few motorcycles zipping around, including on walking paths! How can UNESCO allow them?!

UPDATE: Reader KV asked "Can you rent one of these dwellings"? Yes! There are many "cave dwellings" for rent. However, from the reviews we read, those rooms are prone to weak wi-fi signals, and high humidity, so we stayed in a more or less regular hotel.

Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

A more popular and quieter activity is sunrise hot air ballooning, though the first morning I woke up to the woosh sound of the balloon firing its burner right over our building. The balloons made the place even more fantastical. Second below is a video (or click here).

Hot Air Balloons - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

15-econd Video - Hot Air Balloons - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey We opted for a low carbon approach to get to know the landscape.

  • Rose valley and Red valley: we mostly followed this track. There was a section of ropes in order to get to the top of the ridge (1st below). Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Rose and Red Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

  • Love valley and Pigeon valley: we mostly followed this track. The viewpoints had many visitors, but no so many people walking the trails. Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Love Valley and Pigeon Valley Loop - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

  • Goreme Open Air Museum (a collection of churches), then we made our own program: after the museum, we went to the entrance of Meskendir valley, but decided we didn't really want to go down into it. We then returned to Goreme via Zemi valley. Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

    Open Air Museum and Zemi Valley - Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

It is now obvious why Cappadocia is so popular, and deservedly so.

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