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Thursday, August 03, 2023

Georgia: Adventure in Mtskheta

From Tbilisi we had a day trip to check off the Unesco Mtskheta, the ancient capital of Georgia. We had realized by now that the Georgian/Armenian church complexes are not particularly visually striking. Their significance is in their historical and cultural roots. 

Since Svetitstkhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery are separated by the Georgian Military Highway and the Kura river, they are particularly difficult to visit independently.  We found a very helpful trip report and made it an adventure: there is a bridge over the river, a tunnel under the highway, a trail up to the monastery, and a road down to a bus top. ;-)

Notes to fellow travellers: 1) Get off the minibus from Didube before it reaches the center of Mtskheta. 2) From Jvari Monastery, we walked on the road down to Zahesi. There are multiple bus/minibus lines to Didube, see google maps. 

Arriving on the minibus in Mtskheta we could see the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral to our left and Jvari Monastery across the river.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The Cathedral is surrounded by a wall with an impressive gate and bell tower.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Gate - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Gate and Belltower  - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The Cathedral has a high ceiling (1st below) , some medieval frescoes (2nd below), and a copy of the Holy Sepulchur in a side chapel (3rd below).
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral _ Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Cathedral Medieval Fresco - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Copy of the Holy Sepulcher -  Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The Cathedral is busy with tourists, and ceremonies for the faithful.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral -  Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The exterior of the Cathedral can be clearly viewed from all sides. I found it quite pleasing.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

One can see the Jvari Monastery from inside the Cathedral wall. Here we come!
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The walk from the Cathedral to the Kura River Bridge is about 1km. We were slowed by ripe cherries and mulberries hanging overhead.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

After a short walk on the shoulder of the Military Highway, we crossed underneath, and walked up an easy-to-follow trail to Jvari Monastery.
Walking on the Shoulder of he Military Highway - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Tunnel Under The Georgian Military Highway - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Beehives - Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Jvari Monastery interior was under renovation; however, we ate our lunch with awesome views along the Kura River Valley, and down to the Cathedral in Mtskheta.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

The 4km walk up, then down, to the bus stop at Zahesi was uneventful although we did have to briefly shelter from a rain shower (we forgot to bring our umbrellas), and carry a turtle off the road. And soon we were back to our apartment.
Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia

Excursion to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery - Mtskheta, Tbilisi, Georgia


Wednesday, August 02, 2023

Georgia: Cosmopolitan Tbilisi

Tbilisi, capital of the Republic of Georgia, is the epitome of cultural crossroads. So many different foreign powers came through and left their marks on the city. The city has sheltered people of different religions and ethnicities. Today many Russians are living in Tbilisi because of the war.

Yet the self determination of the Georgian people prevails, more than their Eastern Orthodox religion, the Georgian language is most revealing. Georgian has its own alphabet. More incredibly, Georgian is unrelated to any European languages or central Asian languages.

While in Tbilisi we rented an older apartment in a courtyard-style building just 10 minutes walking from Liberty Square. Below are a few photos of our neighborhood (1st and 2nd below), and courtyard (3rd); note the wooden columns on the 2nd floor porch.
Jacobs - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia

Our Apartment is to the left behind the blue car -   Tbilisi, Georgia

Walking north on Rustaveli Street from Liberty Square (1st below) to Rose Revolution Square one first encounters the Parliament (2nd below) with its fountain, then the usual slew of monumental museums, ministries, and theaters common to all capital cities. Not to mention the former Marx–Engels–Lenin Institute (3rd below), now the Biltmore Hotel.
Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

The Biltmore - Formerly the Marx–Engels–Lenin Institute - Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

McDonald's - Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

Rustaveli Metro Station - Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

The ultra-modern Bridge of Peace connects Tbilisi's walled (3rd below) Old Town with "unusual' modern buildings on the other side of the xxxx River.
Bridge of Peace - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia

City Wall - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

There is a fortress (1st below), reached by foot or calbe car, on Narikala Hill overlooking the Old Town, the domes of the Ottoman Sulfur baths (2nd), the Jumah Mosque (3rd below), Saint George's Armenian Church (4th), the Great Synagogue (5th),and more.
The View to Meidan Bazar and Narikala Hill - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia

Jumah Mosque - Tbilisi, Georgia

Saint George's Armenian Church - Tbilisi, Georgia

The Great Synagogue of Tbilisi - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

There are many Art Nouveau buildings in Tbilisi. Some highlights below.
The Art Nouveau King Gorgasali Hotel - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Marjanishvili Theatre (1907) - Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

The Art Nouveau Public School #60 - Afternoon Walk in City Center Tbilisi, Georgia

Evening Walk from Liberty Square to Rose Revolution Square - Tbilisi, Georgia

The Art Nouveau Former Mutual Credit Society - Tbilisi, Georgia

Former David Sarajishvili House,  now House of Writers - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Mantashev Rows - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Mantashev Rows - Morning Architecture Walk in Central Tbilisi, Georgia

Melik-Azaryants Building - Architecture - Tbilisi, Georgia

The old Central Market now hosts a Carrefour supermarket with a great selection of Roshen Wafers (from Ukraine), and beer on tap.
The old Central Market now Hosts a Carrefour - Afternoon Walk in City Center Tbilisi, Georgia

Roshen Wafers - Carrefour - Afternoon Walk in City Center Tbilisi, Georgia

We buy a Liter of Beer "To Go" -  Carrefour - Afternoon Walk in City Center Tbilisi, Georgia

Typical Georgian Vegetarian Lunch: Eggplant rolls, soup, and dumplings.
Typical Georgian Vegetarian Lunch: Eggplant rolls, soup, and dumplings. - Tbilisi, Georgia

Typical Georgian Vegetarian Lunch: Eggplant rolls, soup, and dumplings. - Tbilisi, Georgia


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