Sri Lanka: Dambulla

Based in Dambulla, we had three activities.

• Cave Temples: a series of five temples built by enclosing a rock overhang. The site is said to have had continuous buddhist activity since the 3rd century BCE. While the artifacts may be as recent as the last renovation and refurbishing in the 18th century, the overall effect is impressive enough. While the frescoes are reminiscent of Christian art, the statues are decidedly Buddhist.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Foregoing the exorbitant admission of $36, and crowded climb to Sigiriya (Lion Rock: a rock fortress dates back to the 5th century), we opted to climb Pidurangala, another rock (sans fortress) a couple kilometers to the north with a view of the lion's head. Most people go for sunset or sunrise, so it was not crowded. At the top there are excellent views back to Sigiriya (1st and 2nd below), and the surrounding countryside.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• Auvkana Buddha, tallest standing ancient Budha after Telaban blew up the Bamiyan Buddha in Afghanistan. While the status was compelling enough, I was taken with the big stone blocks of the enclosure. I later realized that the rocks may be just veneers over brick. They were remarkable nevertheless. This site had more Sri Lanka visitors than international visitors.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

The walk to Pidurangala Rock trailhead follows the Sigirya moat.




Once again SL booked us into a hotel with a very nice pool.


The bus route to Auvkana (Giant Standing Buddha) followed the bank of one of the largest reservoirs in Sri Lanka. Video, second below.




A few extra Buddha shots.

Sri Lanka: Ancient Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is an archeological site in north central Sri Lanka. Between the 11th and 13th century Polonnaruwa was the capital of the island where rule changed between Sinhalese and Indian invaders a number of times. Much of what remains today were the results of the building program of Sinhalese King Parakramabahu. It's remarkable to me that such a small island nation, so close to the Indian subcontinent, has managed to maintain its independence for so long.

We rented bicycles, explored the site leisurely, it took us the whole day as the $30 site ticket is only good for a day, and it was checked/marked/stamped half a dozen times. The highlights were:

• The site is next to a huge lake - we were corrected - only natural lakes are lakes, otherwise they are tanks/reservoirs - wewa in Sinhala. We came to learn the island is dotted with thousands of them, starting as far back as 5th-century BCE. Those reservoirs allowed Sri Lanka to develop agriculture and advanced culture.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The few pools really caught my attention - very luxurious.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The reclining buddha at the Gil Vihara (Rock Temple) is particularly compelling.
  
  
  
  
  
  

The ruins of the Royal Palace (first below) with defensive walls and moat were impressive even though only remnants of the lower two floors, out of seven!, exist. The nearby King’s Council Chamber with columns, lion astatues, and elephant reliefs was splendid as well.






At Polonnaruwa there a many stupas, large and small.








And 2 Hindu temples. One was in the process of being packed up and moved in order for its foundation to be stabilized, the other is active and features a priest.




There were two outstanding Buddha Image Halls. One medium-size and cozy, the other monumental.




And more.

Colombo: Around Town

While in Colombo, on festival days we walked around the neighborhood of Cinnamon Gardens near our hotel, with wide boulevards, colonial buildings, and shady parks. We even ran into the park that was sheltering the temple elephants. As with the procession, I am super excited by their magnificent presence, at the same time, I am keenly aware of me being a passive witness to the subjugation of free spirits.

On the last full day we went into the city center to check out Colombo Fort and Pettah. Since it happened to be a Sunday, 90+% of the businesses were closed in Pettah. It was rather easy navigating around. Judging by the number of businesses and hand carts used by ports, I could just imagine what a bustling commercial area it is, more like India than Sri Lanka, including the neighborhood religious institutions, Hindu and Muslim, not Buddhist.

Colombo Fort, on the other hand, had a forlorn look on this Sunday, loomed over the halted construction of the new Ritz Carlton. All the roads around the Presidential Palace were closed, making the place awkward to navigate. Less than two years ago, in July 2022 protesters stormed the presidential palace as economic conditions deteriorated following Sri Lanka's sovereign default in April 2022. It seems to me the strategy of the government is to have foreign tourists fund their budget shortfalls. When COVID came, tourists stopped coming, things began to unravel. Now tourists have returned, and they are back at it again. Right before we came, the visa fees were upped from $35 to $50, UNESCO site fees for foreigners from $25 to $30 each (Sigiriya $36), and national parks at similar rates. Even with their deflated exchange rate, Sri Lanka cannot be competitive with their exports. I do not see a happy ending for Sri Lanka, as I do with Vietnam.

An unexpected bonus of staying in a hotel near the Full Moon Festival was disembarking after a long train ride from Kandy at Kollupitiya Station (1st below), right on the Laccadive Sea, and maybe our fav train station disembark ever. And then later riding the train from Kollupitiya into Colombo Station (2nd, 3rd, and 4th below).








Not to mention the hotel (Cinnamon Red Colombo) pool on the 26th floor.


Walking around the Cinnamon Gardens neighborhood: Elephants, City Hall, National Theatre, Rugby Stadium, futuristic Planetarium, and the modernist Clock Inn building.














Our day trip to Colombo Fort was very disheartening as SL describes above, although I did my best to make it look good in the photos below. First is the Unfinished Ritz-Carlton.


Clock Tower and Mosque


Former National Mutual Insurance Building .


Whiteways Building


Cargills, which is not the same as Cargill, the American Company


And the adjoining Pettah neighborhood is also a bit worn down. We did however become familiar with the Mawatha Bus Station, finding the platform/terminal and confirming the fare for bus No 48 which we will take to Pollonnuarwa. Yes!






Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque




There are also Hindu Temples and Christian Churches (it's Lent btw) in Pettah.




We had a very relaxed, tasty lunch at Arunthathee Pure VVegetarian Restaurant.


Pettah is a market neighborhood. So loads of green carts. "Sky of blue, Sea of green" ...