Uzbekistan: Elsewhere in Tashkent

We spent some extra time in Tashkent, because we wanted to catch the Persian New Year, Nowruz, in Tashkent, known as Spring Equinox to the rest of the world.

We went by the Orthodox Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin, when they were having Sunday services, very active (1st and 2nd below). We visited the Museum of Applied Arts (3rd and 4th below) - the 19th century building that houses the museum was more interesting than the exhibits. John got his hair cut.











The Nowruz celebration took us to Milliy Bog (National Park) which is really a large city park, with an open entry amusement park, Magic City (1st below), at the one end. It was a beautiful spring day. The park drew a good crowd. The activities included "stick-pulling" wrestling, dancing, a highwire troupe, and a "feats of strength" demonstration. Not to mention the making of traditional sumalak, a sweet paste made entirely from germinated wheat and is cooked over a fire in a large pot.

Tashkent: Old Town

One day we went to see the old town. Not that I had much expectations, what we found was that they were rebuilding the "old" town. Furthermore, a lot of the old town had been torn down to construct the ginormous Center of Islamic Civilization - "to show that Islam is the religion of intelligence, peace and enlightenment — not the religion of terrorism or fundamentalism," funded entirely by a Russian oligarch. As much as I admire the splendor of the place, I couldn't help wondering what other good could have been done with all that money.

We went around looking at mosques, madrassas, and mausoleums. The highlight was the visit to the central market, Chorsu. The bustle of the market convinced me that Tashkent's population actually is 2.5 million, since the rest of the city is so chill - I find myself wondering - where is everyone?!

Rebuilding the Old Town




Kokaldash Madrasah (left), Hoja Ahror Valiy Mosque (right)


The Chorsu Central Market sprawls out in front of the Kokaldash Madrasah, as in centuries past.


The Kokaldash Madrasah (Islamic School) has been renovated, and there's a landscaped garden courtyard. The students lived onsite in cells that face the courtyard.


The Dome of the Chorsu, as seen from a distance. Additional market buildings spread out in all directions.




After 5 or 10 minutes of walking we were inside the blue dome. Wow!










The under-construction Islamic Civilization Center.




The Hazrati Imom Mosque Complex.

Uzbekistan: Tashkent Soviet Modernism

Tashkent, Uzbekistan is our entry into Central Asia. The Silk Road had been a destination for us for decades. Besides the usual concerns for accommodation and transportation, the prevalence of bribery makes my stomach churn. In recent years, having met more people who have traveled to Central Asia and Central Asians travelling abroad, we are ready to give it a try. This is sorta like a continuing east from our Caucasus (Spring 2023) trip. A further bonus is that Uzbekistan is visa free for Americans 55 and older, my first major benefit for turning 55.

Tashkent, capital of Uzbekistan, may have been a post centuries ago on the Silk Road; however, now it is foremost a Russian/Soviet city. It grew to be the largest city in Central Asia under Russian/Soviet control. We went around all over town looking at Soviet Modernist buildings and metro stations.

From the window seat on our flight from Abu Dhabi to Tashkent, there were great views to (1st below) a housing project in Abu Dhabi, the northern tip of Oman, and Tashkent- Railway Station.






Tashkent has a 4-line metro. The stations of the 2 oldest lines, built in the 1970's and 1980's, feature never ending Soviet Modernist art and architecture. Below are a few of our favs.




































And some of the Soviet Modernist Architecture from the 1970's and 1980's starting with the State Museum of the History of Uzbekistan.


National Information Agency of Uzbekistan (UzA).


Panoramic Cinema by Vladimir Beryozin, 1964




Hotel Uzbekistan, 1974


SIRK - State Circus by Genrikh Aleksandrovich and Gennady Masyagin, 1976


Chorsu Market by Vladimir Azimov and Sabir Adylov, 1980




Mural / Mosaic Panel created by V. Kutkin - School #110


Zhemchug Residential Tower by Ophelia Aidinova, 1985




Academy of Arts


Friendship of the Nations Palace (1981)