Uzbekistan: Samarkand

Samarkand more than any other city evokes the splendor of the Silk Road, with its gigantic monuments. We were glad that we were going up stream on the Silk Road. Not that Khiva and Bukhara do not have their own merits, Samarkand is breathtaking, nevermind they are largely the results of recent restoration and reconstruction; originally constructed during the zenith of the city when Samarkand was the capital of the Timurid Empire, one of the largest Empires in the world.

• The Registan had to be the most beautiful square in the known world in its heyday. Its beauty is hard to resist.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The monumental Bibi-Khanym Mosque, the largest mosque, built in 1400, is largely in ruins, nevertheless extraordinary.
  
  
  
  
  
  
• The Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum complex has the most superb tile works, anywhere.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• There are four dome ceilings around town that have been meticulously restored. If my neck didn't hurt from craning, I could look at them forever.
  
  Amir Temur Mausoleum
  
  
  Registan Square
  
  
  
  
  Aksaray Mausoleum
  
  
  
  

We decided to skip Shakhrisabz. Having been thoroughly dazzled by Samarkand, we didn't want to be underwhelmed, especially considering the travel time and expense.

Uzbekistan: Bukhara

Bukhara was a major city on the Silk Road. It had been the capital of various dynasties. Many of the buildings we see today originated during the time of the Silk Road. It was a major religious and commercial center. Hundreds of mosques and madrasas dot the place as well as many caravanserais and market halls.

• The early 10th century Samanid Mausoleum is the oldest example of brick on brick decoration that we are getting exposed to in Central Asia, as we are yet to visit Iran. See the short video below.
  
  
  
  
• We also got introduced to the kosh layout which consists of two large buildings - a mosque/madrasa or madrasa/madrasa — which face each other across a street or square, and are now wondering whether this is the reason we noticed so many twin towers in Dubai. Below is a mosque/madrasa combo, with the Kalon Mosque on the right and the Mir-i-Arab Madrasa on the left.
  
  
  
  
• The non-geometric decoration on the Nadir Divan Beghi Madrasa is a riot. The Madrasa was originally built as a caravanserai. Its splendor caught the khan's eye, therefore it was appropriated as a madrasa. Apparently it is more important to have a madrasa, even a sacrilegious madrasa.
  
  
  
  

Most of the preserved buildings are being used to sell souvenirs. John - the city has been restored to their old purpose - trading of goods.

On the 8-hour train ride Khiva to Bukhara, with older sleeper cars, and an ancient samovar. The final destination is Tashkent, and our compartment companions are settling in for the long trip. The fruit and nut trees are blooming outside adding some color to an otherwise bleak landscape. At one point we spotted a small herd of camels (6th below).












The Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress made of earthen walls. First below is the iconic main gate. There are great views from atop the walls to the Old Town (2nd and 3rd below). The walls are being rebuilt using the old material and methods (4th below).








The Bolo Haouz Mosque is directly opposite the Ark. Its large, colorful, wooden iwan was very impressive. We were there just as noon prayers concluded and able to step inside the more modern prayer hall for a few minutes.






Bukhara is more than monumental buildings such as the Ark and the Kalan Complex. There are small, cozy, neighborhood mosques as well. Architecturally they follow the same plan as the large mosques - wooden iwan outside; and carpets, chandeliers, and fantastic ceilings inside - on a smaller scale.






The Kalan Complex was amazing. A 46-meter minaret, a mosque with a large courtyard, and colorful decoration.












Across the square is the active Mir-i-Arab Madrasa with over 100 male students. Visitors are not allowed, but one can look through a grill to the inner courtyard.




All that remains of the Chor Minor Madrasah is the gate.


One morning we are out walking in Bukhara near the Lyabi-Hauz Pond (2nd and 3rd below) and a guy asks me to help him set up his restuarant tables (1st below). OK?!






Veg dumplings from our "goto" Bukhara resto.

Uzbekistan: Khiva

Khiva is really the first stop on our upstream tour of the Silk Road. An important post on the Silk Road, Khiva was razed and rebuilt many times throughout history. Much of what we see today was built/embellished in the 18th & 19th century, long after the decline of the silk trade. By them Khiva was thick into the slave trade. If it were not for the labors of the slaves, Khiva would not have the multitudes of tourists descending upon it today.

Walking around Khiva is like being on a movie set, it is exactly like what one might imagine what a Silk Road post would look like. The core of the inner city consists of palaces, mosques, madrassas, and mausoleums, surrounded by the inner city wall (~3km). There is one marketplace (tim) and one bath (hammam). I imagine most plebeian activities would have taken place between the inner and outer wall, however nothing survived there, save for part of the outer wall.

Just inside the Northern Gate, a former madrasah is now an upscale hotel. Its unfinished Kalta Minor Minaret is more than amazing.








The main street.
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A glimpse inside the old mosque.


People live inside the old city, concentrated around the so-called White Mosque and the Southern Gate.










The main square.




Mausolum and tombs.






The 57-meter tall Islom Hoja Minaret.






The market in front of the former Russian school.


Inner City Wall. Some portions of the inner wall contain tombs. Some parts are indergoing repairs. Our hotel had a city wall view.










Outer City Wall.