Greece: Santorini

When we first came to Greece 30 years ago, we opted not to visit Santorini, then again no in 2015. This time we decided to brave the crowds and finally see it for ourselves.

Conceptually it is a very interesting place. The island is formed by the caldera of a volcano, with villages perched on the edge. The 1956 earthquake more or less leveled much of the island. Rebuilding has fashioned the island into an Aegean Disney. 800+ cruise ships call on the island each year. New accommodations are built with individual pools, their weight stressing the fragile slopes of the caldera. The tiny island has multiple desalination plants. If there is ever a tourist zoo, Santorini would be the picture on the billboard.

Strangely we had fun wallowing in the tourist zoo. One day we walked from Fira to Oia along the caldera cliff. Another day we rode the bus to visit Ancient Minoan Akrotiri aka the Greek Pompei. We liked the site so much, when we got back to town, we beelined to the Prehistoric Museum, which was not in our original plan, to see the Akrotiri frescos. I had not expected to come to Santorini to learn about Minoans.

Also, we had plans to visit Ancient Thira, at the highest point of the island, we had to abandon our efforts 100 meters from the entrance. Over the years I have grown more accustomed to wind, but this wind was so strong, we had to hold onto each other to not be blown over by a gust, we didn't fancy being blown off the mountain.

The early morning Seajets Ferry experience from Herkalion, Crete to Fira Port, Santorini was smooth. Fortuitously our assigned seats were adjacent to a Chinese tour group, and the tour leader (in orange, 2nd below) would shout out in Mandarin helpful information, "toilets back and to the left" and "get ready to disembark" for her group, and for us.






Immediatley after checking into our hotel, we set out on the Caldera Trail to Oia.












There were swanky hotels right on the Caldera Trail. Take a look!






Lunch break view on the Caldera Trail.


And about halfway to Oia there is a sharp left-hand turn onto several hills with amazing views.






As we get closer to Oia, it's time for a break to savor the view.








When we reached Oia, many tourists were walking along the famous Central Marble Road.




Not to mention the queues at the 3 or 4 famous Instagram Photo Spots, conveniently marked on Google Maps. The first photo below is the queue at the Three Blue Domes Viewpoint. The second is a selfie of SL and I with the Three Blue Domes behind us, taken about 10 meters away from the IG spot. Look for the action at the IG spot to the lower right of the frame.




More Oia viewpoint photos.




As we were headed to catch the bus back to Fira, this guy rode by on his mule. Check out the 2nd video below.




Some photos from our failed attempt to visit Ancient Thira on a very windy day.




The amazing Akrotiri Archaeological Site.






"Blue Monkeys Fresco - Museum of Prehistoric Thira - Found at the Akrotiri Archaeological Site.


Young Fisherman Fresco - Museum of Prehistoric Thira - Found at the Akrotiri Archaeological Site.


A few more Oia Viewpoints shots.

Crete: Chania

Chania is a rather attractive city, with its cozy harbor, city walls, and hilltop fort. Between 1851 to 1971, it was the capital of Crete. The Old Town suffered less heavy bombing than Heraklion did during WWII. Vestiges of Venetian and Ottoman are still visible.

For example, Agios Nikolaos was Roman Catholic with a bell tower, then Islamic with a minaret, now Orthodox with both (1st below). While the hilltop was badly damaged from bombing, excavations revealed Minoan remains (2nd below).





On our one whole day in Chania we had a hike on the Akrotiri Peninsula (see photos farther below). To start we took the bus to Stavros Beach, walked to the Gouverneto and Triada monasteries, originally established by Catholic monks during Venetian rule. We returned to Chania by walking to the airport to catch the Airport Bus. Whew, a long but rewarding day.

The Old Town is busy in the evenings with folks strolling on the main drag. And later the whole area around the harbour turns into one big seafood restaurant.






The Cozy Old Harbour in daytime and at night.




Here are some photos from our walk which started at Stavros Beach and ended at the airport. Stavros was easy to reach by bus and there was a useful map at the trailhead.


We circled around the big hill, found a spot with a view of the mountains, sat down, and ate our packed breakfast.


As we continued following the red trail markers we were happy to come across many dragon lilies, some of which had been "trimmed"by goats.




After ascending through a gully (1st and 2nd below), and continuing on a pleasant downhill (3rd), we turned sharply right, leaving the trail, and bushwacking (4th) up past the abandoned Monastery of St. Anthony (5th) to the Gouverneto Monastery (6th below).












The Gouverneto Monastery was very beautiful. And the faces in 3D relief near the entrance were amazing.


After passing more dragon lilies and a vineyard or two, the airport was in view. And a few kilometers later we were on the Airport Bus back to Chania.






A few more views of the old Venetian Harbour. The lighthouse (1st below) and the Arsenali (Shipyards) second.




Bonus panorama of the Old Harbour.