Slovenia: Kranjska Gora, Day 1 (And it's John's Birthday!)

After the weekend, we left Lake Bohinj to backtrack to Kranjska Gora on the other side of Triglav National Park. Now that the trail run was completed, we could get a room. Getting there was not too easy. First, we had to take a bus towards Ljubljana to connect with a bus from Ljubljana. Slovenia has bus schedules, but when the routes are so long and intercity buses also double as village buses, you might as well not have them—and be like other developing countries. I have to remember that not everyone judges countries by their public transport systems.

After arriving in Kranjska Gora in the afternoon, we rode the bus to Rateče, the first/last village on this side of the Italian-Slovenian border, to walk back to Kranjska Gora. The valley walk started on the Alpe Adria Trail, a 750 km long-distance trail through Austria, Slovenia, and Italy that is very popular with bicyclists. Around here, one of the Caminos to Santiago de Compostela also coincides with it. The trail took us by the Zelenci Nature Reserve, which looked like a wetland on the map but turned out to be pretty dry. Surely there must be more water in the spring, except for the small lake formed by the underground spring. Nevertheless, the setting is very scenic.

We veered off the trail to look at the village of Podkoren, yet to be infected by mass tourism, before plodding our own way back to Kranjska Gora. John had a hard time on the walk. His cold is still not getting better, and it was his birthday, too; however, when we went out for dinner, he still had his usual good appetite.

On the bus towards Ljubljana.


Passing Lake Bled.


Streets of Kranjska Gora


The bus dropped us off in Ratece and we started walking back to Krankjska Gora.


Holy Spirit Church, and a barn in Rateče




More Ratece: Giant Cabbages and Custom-Painted Beehives




We loved the turquoise waters of Zelenci Natural Reserve..




Roller Skiers and Cyclists on the Alpe Adria Trail at Podkoren.




The City Center of Podkoren and a view of the Julian Alps.




View to the Julian Alps from Podkoren


Ostriches in Podkoren?


John's Birthday Dinner: Pizza, Eggplant, and Mushrooms


The Streets of Kranjska Gora as we head home from dinner.

Slovenia: Lake Bohinj Part Two

Lake Bohinj is quiet and serene. We based ourselves in Stara Fuzina, north of the lake. The village still has a traditional feel; that is, you can smell the barn. The first day we rode the train to Most na Soci where the Soca river is dammed for hydroelectricity (see previous blog post) before it is joined by the Idrijca river. The Soca is known for its turquoise color, and we plan to explore its upper part later in a few days.

After we got back to Stara Fuzhina, we set out to walk the Mostnice Gorge (below). We continued to where the trail comes out in the Voje Valley. It was a rather enjoyable walk. There weren't so many people as it was late afternoon.

The next day we found a bus route that took us 550m above the lake to Vogar Blato, then ascended another 300m to a viewpoint of the lake on a combination of wooded trails and logging roads.

After visiting Most na Soci, we arrived back in Stara Fuzina with enough time to walk the Mostnice Gorge Trail before dark. Some of the water from the gorge was diverted into a small channel centuries ago for mills, small factories, and town drinking water.




We paid 5 Euros total to walk the gorge - cash only.


The gorge was narrow with rushing clear waters that reflected the blue sky and green trees.




There were many waterfalls.






Not to mention Elephant Rock, which we took in from both sides.




We turned around at a viewpoint to Voje Valley.


And our efforts are rewarded with a beautiful view of Stara Fuzina on the way home.


The next morning we hopped on the Vogar Blato bound bus to take us up, up, up the hills behind Stara Fuzina for some views of Lake Bohinj






At one point the walking was sharply uphill, but not a goat path.


This stone marks the side trail to the viewpoint.


Our Selfies above Lake Bohinj! And we spotted a paraglider!




We followed a logging road for about half the return to the bus stop. The first part was steep, otherwise like a highway.








And eventually we joined the paved road.






Cheers to Stara Fuzina!

Slovenia: Lake Bohinj Part One

From Dobbiaco, we took OBB Austrian trains to reach Jesenice, Slovenia at the edge of the Julien Alps. We had wanted to head directly to Kranjska Gora, 24km away, except they are hosting a big international series of trail runs this weekend. There was not a room to be had. So, we are spending the weekend at Lake Bohinj.

Normally there is a train between Jesenice and Lake Bohinj, but there is work on the tracks this week, so we ended up on the "replacement bus". They didn't send enough buses - a few folks had to stand - plus it ran behind schedule. I'm not impressed with Slovenia so far. We were in Slovenia 25 years ago. It seems they could have made more progress in the intervening years. I may be judging them too harshly....

The upside to the replacement bus was we went by Lake Bled. We were there 25 years almost to the exact date. I wasn't impressed then, now I know it was because I saw it on a cloudy day. The lake is a completely different color in the sun. The other thing I noticed is that 25 years ago Lake Bled had been shut down for the season. This time we saw all manner of water activity: sunbathing, swimming, paddleboarding, etc. I attribute the difference to climate change. John thinks maybe there are just in general more people traveling, resulting in more activities.

Lake Bohinj is quiet and serene. We based ourselves in Stara Fuzina, just north of the lake. The village still has a traditional feel; that is, you can smell the barns. The first day we rode the train to Most na Soci where the Soca river is dammed for hydroelectric before it is joined by the Idrijca river (this post). The Soca is known for its turquoise color, and we plan to explore its upper part later in a few days (next post).

We board the spiffy RED OBB Austrian Train at Lienz.


Then change to a blue Slovenian train at Vallach.


Buying the "Replacement Bus" tickets from Jesenice to Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia


The Replacement Bus stopped in Lake Bled - an unexpected bonus as it slowly moved around the lake perimeter.


Once settled in Stara Fuzina, we strolled down to Lake Bohinj (bowHEEN) to check out the sunset.










On the way back to our guesthouse we passed a traditional hayrack.They are all over the place in rural Slovenia.


Our end of Stara Fuzina was more of a rural village than a tourist village.








At Bohinjska Bistrica Station, waiting for the train to Most na Soci.




While we were waiting the novel-to-me "car train" arrived. All the cars drove off the far end, several cars drove onto the train (first below), and the sturdy green locomotive moved from one end of the train to the other for the return trip (2nd below).




The Station Master at GROHOVO Station is cranking away.


While walking from Most na Soci Railway s\Station into town, we foraged the best tasting fig ever.


Soca River confluence.




In Most na Soci, one can see ruins of a Roman house, at least one traditional hayrack, and a vintage three-wheeled light blue Piaggio Ape work vehicle.