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Wednesday, October 21, 2026

Italy: Archaeological Area of Aquileia

From Trieste, we made a day trip to Aquileia by train and bus. Aquileia didn't get on our radar until I looked around for things to do around Trieste. Today Aquileia, UNESCO 1998, is a small village of a few thousand people. In the 2nd century CE, Aquileia was estimated to have 100,000 people, and was considered a "Second Rome." Aquileia was sacked and destroyed by Attila the Hun in 452. The migration of refugees from Aquileia is often linked to the founding of Venice.

Aquileia isn't particularly well preserved and excavated. The major thoroughfare thru town bisects the Forum. The most prominent features were the rather uncommon river harbor, and mosaics. Mosaic was popular during Roman times, and was deployed in early Christian churches, as in the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. While many of the mosaics were geometric, there were acres of them.

We arrived at Aquileia by bus. We spotted a sign with a reconstruction of the Roman City, passed a pile of cremation urns and a relocated mausoleum, then headed straight to the Roman Road.
Domus Area (Roman Houses) - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Urns - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Roman Mausoleum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Roman Road - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

We happened to visit on one of the two "Archaeology Days" of the year when archaeologists give tours. So we headed over to the Roman Forum.
Roman Forum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Free Tour with Local Archaeologist - Roman Forum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Then we walked on the mulit-purpose trail to the Paleochristian Museum, housed in the ruin of a Roman Christian Basilica with a mosaic floor, the second best church mosaic floor in Aquileia. Keep reading. The museum also houses the floor of the Basilica of Fondo Tullio on a mezzanine level modern addition. This is early Christian symbolism.
Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Mosaic from Basilica of Fondo Tullio - Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Mosaic from Basilica of Fondo Tullio - Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Mosaic from Basilica of Fondo Tullio - Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

And down into the floor of the basilica.
Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Museo Nazionale Paleocristiano (National Paleochristian Museum - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

There was a Roman Port on the 48 meters wide Natissa River, but the river is now silted up.
The Port - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

The Port - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

The Roman House of Titus Macer was cool. To conserve the site, a roof was built in the presumed shape of the original.
Titus Macer's House - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Titus Macer's House - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Titus Macer's House - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

We took a break at the lunch hour and visited the weekend Roman Encampment.
Aquileia Splendida Civitas Roman Festival - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Aquileia Splendida Civitas Roman Festival - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Aquileia Splendida Civitas Roman Festival - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

The 11th century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta Complex has 5 key components.
  • The Baptistery and adjacent halls/li> The Paleochristian Floor Mosaics of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

  • The 11th century Basilica and its 4th century Christian 4th-century floor mosaics depicting the story of Jonah, the Good Shepherd, and moire.
  • The Paleochristian Floor Mosaics of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

    The Paleochristian Floor Mosaics of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

  • TThe 12th century Crypt of Frescoes
  • Crypt of the Frescoes  of the Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

  • The Crypt of the Excavations where a section of the 4th-century mosaic floor was destroyed when a massive bell tower was built in the 11th century /li> The Crypt of the Excavations of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

    The Crypt of the Excavations of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

    The Crypt of the Excavations of The Aquileia Basilica Complex - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy

  • The 11th century bell tower.
  • Aquileia Splendida Civitas Roman Festival - Archaeological area of Aquileia, FVG, Italy


The site museum was excellent. In the entrance hall, a pair of telemons / atlantes.
1st Century BCE Telamons / Atlantes from Panigai   - National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Medalion.
National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Cremation Urns.
National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Ancient Roman Portrait Heads and Busts
Ancient Roman Portrait Heads and Busts - National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Abduction of Europa Mosaic
"Abduction of Europa" Mosaic - National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

The coolest part of the museum was the series of Visitable Storerooms. Reminded me of the penultimate scene of Raiders of the Lost Ark.
Visitable Storerooms - National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Visitable Storerooms - National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

National Archaeological Museum of Aquileia - Aquileia, FVG, Italy

Tuesday, October 20, 2026

Italy: Trieste

The terrible history student I've always been, realized some time during our trip, the first part of our journey, up to when we fly to France, is about visiting the parts of Italy they gained after WWI, some of which they lost after WWII, and some they held on to such as the Dolomites and Trieste.

Julius Caesar granted the ancient town of Trieste, then known as Tergeste, the status of a Roman colony around 46 BC. In the Medieval Period, the name gradually evolved from Tergeste to Trieste.

Trieste was the one and only port city of the Habsburgs, and it was a free port 1719–1891 during which huge quantities of commodities came from the colonies and plantations. Trieste prospered. Even today, 40% of all green coffee entering Italy comes through Trieste; illy caffè is from Trieste.

Thus, Trieste has a lot of grand buildings, public and private. One of them we visited was the house of Pasquale Revoltella who was instrumental to the Suez Canal. Though the canal did not open until 1869, it greatly benefited Trieste.

Another grand building was Miramare Castle, built for Maximilian I around 1860, and where he accepted the crown of Emperor of Mexico in 1864. Three years later he was executed in Mexico 1867. However the content of the Palace fared much better, surviving displacements during both WWI and WWII. In fact, Miramare is a rare European palace that remains intact. Did they have some nice stuff!!! We rarely pay to go inside palaces anymore. We happened to have bought the tourist pass for Trieste that included Miramare - dumb luck.

Another legacy we experienced was the Opicina Tramway which opened in 1902. It climbs from sea level up to 329 meters in Opicina on the Karst plateau in 5 km. The climbing part is a steep 26% where the tram is hitched to a funicular "sled" pushed from behind. Quite a unique system!

We arrived at a lively Trieste Centrale Station after a short train ride from Udine.
Trieste Centrale Station - On The Train from Udine to Trieste, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

Trieste Centrale - Welcome to Trieste, FVG, Italy

In the evenings folks stroll and hang out at the Grande Canal, Piazza Unità, and the adjacent pier to watch cruise ships depart.
Canal Grande - Sunset - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Sunset - Palazzo del Municipio (Trieste City Hall) - Piazza Unità d'Italia, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Sunset from Molo Audace - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Sunset from Molo Audace - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Also on Piazza Unità is the Palazzo del Governo with its shimmering mosaics.
Palazzo del Governo - Piazza Unità d'Italia - Trieste, FVG, Italy

One day we rode the Hop On Hop Off bus to Miramare Castle and Gardens, passing the cement beaches that make up the so-called Trieste Riviera (first below) on the way.
We Visit The Trieste Riviera and Miramare Castle - Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Visit Miramare Castle - Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Visit Miramare Castle - Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Visit Miramare Castle - Trieste, FVG, Italy

The Museo Revoltella Gallery of Modern Art was filled with memorable works including an excellent painting of the Suez Canal (1st below) as Revoltella was an enthusiast. Compare his painting to my 2022 photo from the airplane when we flew from Alexandria, Egypt to Amman, Jordan.
Museo Revoltella – Gallery of Modern Art - Trieste, FVG, Italy

The Southern End of the Suez Canal - Our Air Cairo Flight from Alexandria, Egypt to Amman, Jordan

And: The Last Leaf (1910) by Giovanni Giani. Grandmother's Story (1875) by Pietro Saltini. Lady Walking with her Dog (1878) by Giuseppe De Nittis. After First Communion (1892) by Carl Frithjof Smith.
Ultima Foglia (The Last Leaf) - (1910) by Giovanni Giani - Museo Revoltella, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Grandmother's Story (1875)  by Pietro Saltini -  Museo Revoltella – Gallery of Modern Art - Trieste, FVG, Italy

"Lady Walking with her Dog" (1878) by Giuseppe De Nittis - Museo Revoltella, Trieste, FVG, Italy

After first Communion (1892) by Carl Frithjof Smith  - Museo Revoltella, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Here are photos and short videos from our journey to Opicina and back on the historic tram. And the great view from the Opicina Obelisk Belvedere (3rd below).
We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

View From The Opicina Obelisk - We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We Ride the Historic Tram to Opcina And Back -Trieste, FVG, Italy

We passed the ruins of the Roman Theatre (1st Below), and the Roman Arch (2nd below) on the way up to the Cathedral (3rd and 4th below) on Monte Saint Guisto.
Teatro Romano - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Roman Arch - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Cathedral of San Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Cathedral of San Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Monte St Guiuto was the site of the Roman City. There are the ruins of the forum and a basilica (with the existing Cathedral behind). Not to mention a great view down to Triest.
Cathedral and Ancient Roman Civil Basilica and Forum - Saint Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Saint Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

View from Saint Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

There is also a War Memorial (1st below), Habsburg fort (2nd below), and an Archaeological Museum of Roman Mosaics and Inscriptions (3rd).
Monumento ai Caduti (Monument to the Fallen) - San Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Castle of San Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy br>
Lapidario Tergestino Archaeological Museum - Saint Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

From San Guisto we rode the Autobus Elettrico to Trieste Centrale, then walked up Via Commercial to check out the Liberty Style Art Nouveau Architecture with Casa Pietro Valdoni (3rd and 4th below declared the winner.
Autobus Elettrico - Saint Giusto - Trieste, FVG, Italy

Liberty Style Art Nouveau Architecture - Via Commercial, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Casa Pietro Valdoni - Liberty Style Art Nouveau Architecture - Via Commercial, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Casa Pietro Valdoni - Liberty Style Art Nouveau Architecture - Via Commercial, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Bonus Museo Revoltella works. Beethoven (1900) by Lionello Balestrieri. The Blue Veil (Il Velo Blu) by Triestino Painter Glauco Cambon (1875–1930).
Beethoven (1900) by Lionello Balestrieri - Museo Revoltella, Trieste, FVG, Italy

The Blue Veil (Il Velo Blu) by Triestino Painter Glauco Cambon (1875–1930) - Galleria d'Arte Moderna - Museo Revoltella, Trieste, FVG, Italy

Thanks for reaching the end of this long post! - sun-ling and john

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