Greece: Vergina Royal Tombs

On Easter Monday we went to Vergina. Vergina was the original capital of the Macedonian until the 4th century BCE, later the burial grounds of royalties. It was a major event for the archeological world, when the tomb of Philip II, Alexander the Great's father, was unearthed in 1977, previously unlooted, certainly not for lack of trying. The finds are very fine. I was particularly impressed with the vessels, present by whole sets, metal, not ceramic, and inlay benches, though not preserved, the richness I have not previously encountered, regardless of age.

We also walked to the nearby small theater, where Philip II was assassinated 336 BCE. There is also the palace, partially restored, considered the largest building from Classical Greece.

On the way back while waiting for our bus, we also looked around in Veria, a rather interesting place. It looks to have been quite a cultural crossroads of Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews.

The super cool and 20th-century futuristic KTEL Macedonia Bus Station.


The Museum of the Royal Tombs is located inside the Great Tumulus (burial mound), adjacent to the actual tombs! See photo below of Sun-Ling entering the subterranean entrance.




One of the amazing artifacts found in the tomb of Philip II was this gilded quiver.


We walked right up to, but not inside, the tomb of Philip II and admired the frieze.




The bones of Philip II were found inside this funerary urn. Check out the beautiful star on the lid.


Ceremonial Iron and Gold Armor and Shield of King Philip II




Ceremonial Silver and Banquet Vessels


After the museum, on to the ruins of the ancient theater and Palace of Aigia.


Palace of Aigia.








And finally to the Polycentric Museum of Aigai which tries to give some context to Ancient Macedon.




Notes to fellow travelers: We spent what seemed like countless hours deliberating whether to take a tour or bus, since bus info was not easily forthcoming. We finally concluded a tour simply would not give us enough time. Taking the bus was not easy. First you take a city bus to the Macedonia KTEL station https://maps.app.goo.gl/jxodmH5sqH1h3SZ97, not to be confused with KTEL Thessaloniki at the train station. From Macedonia KTEL there are at least hourly buses to Veria (schedule available online). The hard part is Veria to Vergina. There are no schedules online. When we had our hotel call the Veria station, we were assured they would do a normal schedule on Easter Monday. Of course when we arrived in Veria, there was zero bus on Easter Monday to Vergina, so we taxied, rather painless. While at Veria KTEL, we convinced ourselves there normally is bus service between Veria and Vergina. From Veria to Vergina, the schedule is at the bottom of the page, https://ktelnimathias.gr/?page_id=1376. From Vergina to Veria, the schedule is in the middle of the page under ALEXANDRIA-MELIK-VERIA, the missing Sunday schedule is MELIK-VERGINA-VERIA 9:30, 14:00, 18:30, in other words, on Sundays the bus turns around at Melik.

Greece: Thessaloniki

From Athens we took a train north to Thessaloniki with occasional views to snow-capped Mount Olympus (first below) as we approached Thessinliki. This year Orthodox Easter is one week later than Western Easter. Being Holy Thursday, the train was pretty full with folks returning to their villages and cities for the long weekend.



Thessaloniki kept us busy with Easter activities. Friday morning we made the rounds to check out the churches, filled with people attending services and admiring the Epitaphios (decorated bier of Christ). Friday early evening Saints Menas started its procession of its Epitaphios. Later Friday evening, there was a convergence of five Epitaphios processions at Aristotelous Square.









Saturday evening we went to the midnight celebration in the Agia Sophia courtyard. Right before midnight, all the lights in the church were turned off; then the priests appeared with candles, supposedly from the Eternal Flame in Jerusalem. The flame is then passed on from candle to candle. Being the pyromaniac, I was ready to show up with a candle, John vetoed it - too much religious connotation associated with it. There were some minor fireworks and many joyful faces. Some people were really serious about taking the flame home, others went to bars to celebrate. On Sunday, there was nothing, aside from church services. Maybe less than 10% of the restaurants opened.











In between all the Easter activities, we went to the very fine archeological museum, we admired the Roman ruins right in the middle of the city, and enjoyed the vibrant restaurant scene. I had thought we'd be kicking back in Thessaloniki. I was so wrong.

Holy Friday Churches and Processions








Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki








Sun-Ling's birthday dinner at Tarantoúla Vegan Restaurant. Tasty!


On Easter Sunday we walked up to the Old Town for some great views of the city, then down along the City Walls to the Roman Ruins.






Roman Ruins: Rotunda (with a minaret from the Ottoman Era), Arch of Galerius, Palace of Galerius, and the "Roman Agora" with compelling bathtubs.












ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL - Aristotle Square


Allegra Ergas Mansion

Greece: Athens

At Cagliari we conclude the first loop of our trip - the straight line distance between Tunis and Cagliari is less than 300km. From Cagliari we flew to Athens to start our second loop. Our cheap flight connected in Amsterdam. The flight over snow covered Alps and other mountains was pretty amazing. And an unexpected spotting of tulip fields in bloom before landing in Amsterdam.







The last time we were in Athens was 2014, we didn't discern a lot of change from 1996. This time Athens seems very different. It's shiny and spiffy. Before, one went to the Acropolis, then you scooted out of town as soon as possible. Now Athens is a place where one goes to see and be seen.

The view from our apartment window.


Bubble Tea has come to Athens!


We walked up the famous Mnisikleous Street Steps (1st below) to the Anafiotika neighborhood for some great views of PLAKA (2nd below), and popped inside theChurch of Agioi Anargyroi (3rd below) for a look at the Palm Sunday decorations.






The weather was great so we took a leisurely stroll around the Acropolis, enjoying as many hilltop viewpoints as possible, including one to the sea from Mouseion Hill.










Bonus: Panoramic View from Anafiotika