Italy: Udine - Cividale di Friuli

From Kranjska Gora, we headed to Trieste, which had been a "bucket list" item for John after reading Jan Morris's Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere. Our original plan had been to bus back to Jesenice, train to Nova Gorica, bus across to Italian side Gorizia, then train to Trieste - 90% of the journey would be a repeat. We opted to go the other way, mostly through Italy.

To make the most of our time, we started early by first taking a bus back to Ratece, and walking through the village (1st below) to the border. We realized the other day we missed the village - it's a substantial one too. I was a little surprised the border was actually staffed, by a couple of young guards, no checks. The bus stop is 10 meters from their hut (2nd below).





The bus was right on time. We made the change in Tarvisio, and by 11:00, we were in Udine. We dropped off our bags and caught the train to Cividale di Friuli, UNESCO 2011, established by the Lombards in 568 as their first capital in Italy. The militant Lombards were Germanic speaking people who hailed originally from Scandinavia. They left the very unique 8th century Lombard Temple, which among others, earned Cividale the UNESCO World Heritage designation.

Leaving Tarvisio on the Bus to Udine


A farmer raking hay near Bottenicco as seen from the train to Cividale.


Arriving at Cividale, we first stopped at the Cathedral (Santa Maria Assunta) featuring a painting with San Sebastian tied to the column, and the more famous 12th-Century silver-plated "Pala di Pellegrino II" Altarpiece".








Before visiting the town's two major museums we walked on the Devil's Bridge over the Natisone River to eat our picnic lunch and admire the views.




The National Archaeological Museum of Cividale del Friuli is internationally renowned for housing one of Italy's most important collections of Lombard art, gold jewelry, and weapons from the early Middle Ages.






We were fascinated by the Lombard grave goods, particularly from the female tombs. In addition to jewelry and domestic items, each woman was buried with her dagger. Warrior women!






John was mesmerized by the grave of a young Lombard male (Tomba del Cavaliere -Tomb 43) and his horse, displayed in front of an illustration of an early medieval ritual procession from the town gates of Cividale.


The museum also housed The Bronzes of Zuglio.


Next, on to the unique 8th century Tempietto Longobardo (Lombard Temple), located inside the Monastery of Santa Maria in Valle whose Refectory Hall is shown below.


What makes the Tempietto Longobardo (Lombard Temple) unique? For one, six nearly life-size, standing female saints on the west end. And the mix of architectural styles: classical, medieval, and byzantine.








Adoration of the Magi - 8th-Century Altar of Duke Ratchis - Christian Museum and Treasury.

Slovenia: Kranjska Gora, Day 3

Today we are exploring the Soca River, known for its emerald green color. In the morning we got on the same free Kranjska Gora to Bovec bus, and rode beyond the Vrsic Pass, bypassing the Soca Source stop, to the Soca (village) stop to start our walk. The trail is the Alpe-Adria again, as well the Soca Trail, following the river, along the Greater Soca Gorge. Our original ambition was to walk to Bovec, but we spent too much time gazing at the river, only making it to Kršovec before catching the bus back.

Before we go to the video, let's talk about the Vrsic Pass, and the famous 50 Hairpin Road road to Bovec.

The AI Says: The Vršič Pass (pronounced vur-sheech) is the highest mountain pass in Slovenia and the Eastern Julian Alps, reaching an elevation of 1,611 meters (5,285 feet). Located within the spectacular Triglav National Park, it connects the alpine resort town of Kranjska Gora in Upper Carniola with the remote Trenta and Soča Valleys.

The pass is legendary for its dramatic, twisting The 50 Hairpin Road (Route 206) which spans 24 kilometers. It features exactly 50 numbered hairpin turns—24 on the northern ascent from Kranjska Gora and 26 on the southern descent toward the Soča Valley.

It's standing room only on the Bovec bus. We were lucky to get seats.


A cyclist on the 50 Hairpin Road


We got off the bus at Soca Village, intending to walk to Bovec, about 12 kms west on the Soca Trail. The Soca River is beautiful, and we see a couple of guys fly fishing for trout.




The Soca Trail runs right along the river with steep rocky walls on each side.








Then the river plunges down into the rocks, becoming a gorge within a gorge, 20 to 30 feet deep.


Check out this video.


And this gorge within a gorge continues for several kilometers.




We pick a great spot to eat our picnic lunch; and have some photo fun




After several kilometers the gorge flattens out. Conveniently, or maybe not, there is a big parking lot. Thus, many people are enjoying the water, rocks, and sun.






Look for the man at the right in the speedo who is ready to dive in (1st below). Not me (2nd below).




A very pleasant day along the river = everyone is happy.




John crosses one of the more-than-expected foot bridges over the Soca. This one is near the village of Lepena.




The valley widens. The river is shallow here. We walked along a road, seeing the occasional fly fisherman, and picnickers. Not to mention a small herd of milk cows headed to the barn (see video way below).






And it's an uneventful bus ride from Kršovec back to KG knowing there is a cold beer in the fridge.








Bonus video from the return bus stop.