Greece: Kavala

From Thessaloniki, we were on our way to Istanbul. In order to break up the trip, we first stopped at Kavala, which turned out to be a much bigger town than we expected. Kavala was under Ottoman rule for a long time, and it was during this time that Muhammad Ali Pasha, the founder of modern Egypt, was born. There are a number of buildings from that era, including a large complex funded by the Pasha, the Emerit, once a soup kitchen feeding the poor, now the exclusive five (or six) star Imerit Hotel, tightly shut when we walked by.

During different wars in the 20th century, Bulgarians occupied Kavala three times. Now they just pay their way with money by buying Greek real estate. We even met such a Bulgarian-Swedish couple and were invited for a view from their balcony.

From Kavala, we visited the UNESCO Philippi, founded by Philip II, though everything visible is almost all from Roman times. While the site is not particularly impressive, it is historically significant, particularly because of Apostle Paul's visit, which draws a good number of Christian groups.

Beautiful bus ride along the coast from Thessaloniki to Kavala. We departed from KTEL Macedonia Bus Station, the largest bus terminal in Greece.










Fisherman and Nets in Kavala Port


The 16th-Century Aqueduct of Kavala


View from the Apartment Balcony of our New Friends from Bulgaria and Sweden


View of the Thracian Sea from near the Kavala Lighthouse.


The Port and Ferry Docks.


Cats on the Mercedes


The former "Imaret of Kavala", a charitable organization providing a madrasa (school), soup kitchen, hospital, hammam (bathhouse), and market to the community. It's now an exclusive hotel.






One day we rode the bus to Ancient Philippi.


The ruins of the theatre with snow-capped mountains in the distance.


There were some reliefs on the stage end of the theater with scenes from plays. Looks like a sword cut off someone's head in this play (see below)


The huge and very pleasing, symmetric, Agora; with wildflowers












John at the Agora Podium.


Just above the Agora is a cave or room in the rock labeled "Prison of Saint Paul".


A tour group praying in the Agora near the "Prison of Saint Paul".

Greece: Vergina Royal Tombs

On Easter Monday we went to Vergina. Vergina was the original capital of the Macedonian until the 4th century BCE, later the burial grounds of royalties. It was a major event for the archeological world, when the tomb of Philip II, Alexander the Great's father, was unearthed in 1977, previously unlooted, certainly not for lack of trying. The finds are very fine. I was particularly impressed with the vessels, present by whole sets, metal, not ceramic, and inlay benches, though not preserved, the richness I have not previously encountered, regardless of age.

We also walked to the nearby small theater, where Philip II was assassinated 336 BCE. There is also the palace, partially restored, considered the largest building from Classical Greece.

On the way back while waiting for our bus, we also looked around in Veria, a rather interesting place. It looks to have been quite a cultural crossroads of Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews.

The super cool and 20th-century futuristic KTEL Macedonia Bus Station.


The Museum of the Royal Tombs is located inside the Great Tumulus (burial mound), adjacent to the actual tombs! See photo below of Sun-Ling entering the subterranean entrance.




One of the amazing artifacts found in the tomb of Philip II was this gilded quiver.


We walked right up to, but not inside, the tomb of Philip II and admired the frieze.




The bones of Philip II were found inside this funerary urn. Check out the beautiful star on the lid.


Ceremonial Iron and Gold Armor and Shield of King Philip II




Ceremonial Silver and Banquet Vessels


After the museum, on to the ruins of the ancient theater and Palace of Aigia.


Palace of Aigia.








And finally to the Polycentric Museum of Aigai which tries to give some context to Ancient Macedon.




Notes to fellow travelers: We spent what seemed like countless hours deliberating whether to take a tour or bus, since bus info was not easily forthcoming. We finally concluded a tour simply would not give us enough time. Taking the bus was not easy. First you take a city bus to the Macedonia KTEL station https://maps.app.goo.gl/jxodmH5sqH1h3SZ97, not to be confused with KTEL Thessaloniki at the train station. From Macedonia KTEL there are at least hourly buses to Veria (schedule available online). The hard part is Veria to Vergina. There are no schedules online. When we had our hotel call the Veria station, we were assured they would do a normal schedule on Easter Monday. Of course when we arrived in Veria, there was zero bus on Easter Monday to Vergina, so we taxied, rather painless. While at Veria KTEL, we convinced ourselves there normally is bus service between Veria and Vergina. From Veria to Vergina, the schedule is at the bottom of the page, https://ktelnimathias.gr/?page_id=1376. From Vergina to Veria, the schedule is in the middle of the page under ALEXANDRIA-MELIK-VERIA, the missing Sunday schedule is MELIK-VERGINA-VERIA 9:30, 14:00, 18:30, in other words, on Sundays the bus turns around at Melik.

Greece: Thessaloniki

From Athens we took a train north to Thessaloniki with occasional views to snow-capped Mount Olympus (first below) as we approached Thessinliki. This year Orthodox Easter is one week later than Western Easter. Being Holy Thursday, the train was pretty full with folks returning to their villages and cities for the long weekend.



Thessaloniki kept us busy with Easter activities. Friday morning we made the rounds to check out the churches, filled with people attending services and admiring the Epitaphios (decorated bier of Christ). Friday early evening Saints Menas started its procession of its Epitaphios. Later Friday evening, there was a convergence of five Epitaphios processions at Aristotelous Square.









Saturday evening we went to the midnight celebration in the Agia Sophia courtyard. Right before midnight, all the lights in the church were turned off; then the priests appeared with candles, supposedly from the Eternal Flame in Jerusalem. The flame is then passed on from candle to candle. Being the pyromaniac, I was ready to show up with a candle, John vetoed it - too much religious connotation associated with it. There were some minor fireworks and many joyful faces. Some people were really serious about taking the flame home, others went to bars to celebrate. On Sunday, there was nothing, aside from church services. Maybe less than 10% of the restaurants opened.











In between all the Easter activities, we went to the very fine archeological museum, we admired the Roman ruins right in the middle of the city, and enjoyed the vibrant restaurant scene. I had thought we'd be kicking back in Thessaloniki. I was so wrong.

Holy Friday Churches and Processions








Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki








Sun-Ling's birthday dinner at Tarantoúla Vegan Restaurant. Tasty!


On Easter Sunday we walked up to the Old Town for some great views of the city, then down along the City Walls to the Roman Ruins.






Roman Ruins: Rotunda (with a minaret from the Ottoman Era), Arch of Galerius, Palace of Galerius, and the "Roman Agora" with compelling bathtubs.












ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL - Aristotle Square


Allegra Ergas Mansion