Croatia: Hvar

We'd have been happy to take a flight to Lyon, France from Split, except the only direct flight I found was from Dubrovnik - good excuse to continue south. A one-hour ferry took us to the island of Hvar (VAR, rhymes with CAR). Much to our surprise, the place has been taken over by Spartans. Needless to say, such Obstacle Course Races (OCR) were not even on my radar. We come across all kinds of runs and races on our travels. This has to be the most exciting one to watch.

Hvar must have a lot of beds. Although there were supposed to be 3500 competitors in town, I had no trouble finding a room. Prices were higher, but Hvar is supposed to be posher... The next day's weather wasn't so good. The rain they have been predicting for a few days was finally here. We punted on our planned hike to Milna. Instead we watched the massive number of Spartans on their quest of 21 km over 30 obstacles. These are just ordinary people competing mostly against themselves. I have never been more inspired and moved.

We take the "Kolovare" TP Line Ferry from Split to Hvar, Croatia.




The Spartan events are serious business, with world class infrastructure, technology, media and video coverage. And the race starts and finishes in the Old Town. There were 2 types of events: Spartan Sprint and Spartan Beast. Spartan Sprint is a 100 meter obstacle run; with side-by-side elimination rounds; the winner advances to the next round. We watched some of the morning quarter finals under sunny skies. And then the Men's and Women's Championship Final in the afternoon rain.
















The Spartan Beast event took place on a course that starts with an uphill run to Trvdava Fortress carrying a sack of rocks; 60 pounds for the men, 40 for the women. There were "easier?" events on Saturday, with the 21km Spartan Beast Championship on Sunday.




Right before the finish line there are 6 obstacles including open water swim, various climbs and swings, and a final fire hurdle. Note that in one photo below, the guy with blue shoes climbing up rigging was staying in the room next to us in our apartment-hotel. ;-)














For most obstacles, failure to complete the obstacle cleanly means a penalty like carrying a sack or bucket of rocks on a 50 meter loop.


Our apartment had a view.




The ferry dock, adjacent to the Spartan course, was always busy.

Croatia: Trogir

From Split, we took the local bus to check off Trogir UNESCO 1997. Trogir is really not that special compared to the series of Old Towns we have visited in the past week. However, the Romanesque portal on their cathedral is indeed extraordinary, which enticed us to pay for the inside which turned out to be renaissance, while very fine, not as impressive. Oh, and the ticket got us about 3 feet closer to the portal. ;-)

From the bus stop in Trogir it's a short walk to the old city gate.


Tour groups gaze at Radovan's Portal of the Cathedral of St. Lawrence.


The first thing to notice on Radovan's Portal are Adam (R) and Eve (L) supported by Stone Lions.


Closeup of 2 of the 8 Telemons (Atlantes) holding up Portal Columns


Close up of Winter Scenes. Top to bottom: A Man Slaughtering A Pig; A Man Making Sausage; Wool Activities.


The church interior is rather ho-hum (1st below) except for the ceiling and altar in the Chapel of St. John Orsini (2nd below).




Aside from Radovan's Portal, the other attraction of Trogir is Dalmatian Coast boat touring, and luxury motor yacht cruising.








We walked by Kamerlengo Castle and the football pitch on the way back to the bus station.

Croatia: Split Revisited

25 years ago we arrived in Split on a bus from Dubrovnik. Underwhelmed by our quick look, we got on an overnight bus to Zagreb without sleeping in Split. This trip, thinking we shortchanged Split, we made a point of overnighting in Split.

Split's change in the last 25 years is astounding. Each day there are two or three cruise ships in port. The day we arrived there was a trade fair, and Macron was in town. The place was a zoo. I was in shock.

To the west of city center is Marjan Hill where there are several popular viewpoints; however, there is also a huge park with high coastal paths. We ended up walking there two days in a row, and loved it, such an oasis, such an escape!

We left Zadar just after sunrise on a green FlixBus. ;-)




The view from the bus of a picturesque small bay in the village of Bilo.


Welcome to Spilt - Cruise ships in town!




The highlight of Split is Diocletian's Palace, constructed as a retirement residence for Roman Emperor Diocletian and completed in 305 AD. And the center-of-the-univers of the palace is the Peristyle (Peristil), the central Roman Square inside Diocletian's Palace. Most visitors enter the palace through the Underground Cellars (below).


Then into the amazing Peristyle, watched by a 3500 years old black granite sphinx Diaocletain imported from Egypt.




My only memory of Split from 2001 is sitting in the shade on red cushions in the Peristyle.




Walking to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower was our fav activity in Split; we did it twice. To get fueled up, we stopped at Ela's for ice cream.




Many folks were walking to the first several viewpoints.




But not as many continued to Telegrin Peak, the highest point on the hill, and with great views back to Spilt Old Town, the Adriatic Sea, and to the Stadium.










A chilly wind blew at the top of the newly opened Observation Tower,






The cruise ships are here!


Art Nouveau buildings in the Old Town: Nakic Palace (1st below), Sulphur Baths (2nd)




Split is more quiet after sunset as the cruise ship passengers are back to their boats. And maybe the ship has pulled out of port.










The SPAR Supermarket Inside Diocletian's Palace!


Passion Fruit (L) and Pistachio (R) Ice Cream - Gelateria aMare.


The Massive Bronze Statue of Gregory of Nin (1929) by Ivan Meštrović. The statue is a local icon!




Trg Republike (Commonly Known as The Prokurative)