Sardenia: Sassari

From Castelsardo, we went back to Sassari, the second largest city in Sardinia, an inland city, a university town, not so many tourists. On the Holy Tuesday and Wednesday there was a procession each evening - they were rather similar. We noticed those processions in Sardinia very much involve children, definitely a way to pass on the tradition. On Wednesday there were concerts at two different churches. I think it was the same for Tuesday.

We took the bus to Porto Torres on the coast, a rather sleepy place, though it was a Roman colony and still has remnants of a big bath and a bridge (we couldn't really see). In both Corsica and Sardinia, I found the changing fortunes of the different towns rather interesting. The top attraction of Porto Torres is Basilica di San Gavino, the largest and rather unique 11th century Romanesque church. For example:

Massive Scale: The structure is roughly 58 meters long and 19 meters wide, dominating the hilltop of Monte Agellu.

Recycled Roman Materials: The interior features 22 marble and granite columns taken from ancient Roman and Byzantine buildings.





Dual Apses: It is the only church in Italy with two apses facing each other, meaning there is no main front entrance.





Entrances: Access is through side portals, including a 15th-century Catalan Gothic main door on the south side (below).

Porto Torres is on the sea and boasts a fine Aragonese Tower (2nd below), an eye-catching 1960's modern lighthouse (3rd), and Roman Baths (4th).








Procession of the Sorrowful Madonna














Holy Tuesday Procession of the Mysteries in which 16th-Century wooden statues are carried through the streets and into the churches.
























Sun-Ling and Shadow.


Concerts

Sardinia: Castelsardo

On Holy Monday we headed to Castelsardo, another town founded by the Genoese as Castelgenevese. Its dramatic hilltop setting rivals (or surpasses) Bosa.

Castelsardo is famed for its Holy Monday procession, lit only by candles. Because it was rather windy, instead of waiting outside, we found ourselves inside the cathedral, which was rather dumb luck. We got to see how the procession is really made up with pods of a handful of people, dozens meters apart, as the historic center consists of tiny streets and cannot really handle processions and spectators crosswise, only lengthwise. Some groups of the procession performed polyphonic singing inside the cathedral and along the route. It was quite an experience.

View of Castelsardo from the bus.


View of the Lower Town from the Castelo.


Heading up to the Castelo for the procession.






The procession starts at the Cathedral of Sant'Antonio Abate. First, is a man with a big glove which represents the physical abuse and humiliation Christ endured.


Man with Chains.


Man with Spearpoints.


Procession.






Polyphonic Singing Videos.




Night view of the Lower Town.


Blue Moon


A video of the Castelsardo on the windy day we left for Sassari.

Sardinia: Bosa

Another daytrip from Alghero is to the town of Bosa. The bus went on a coastal road that is regarded as the most scenic road in Sardinia. There isn't even a single village along the road.

Bosa is yet another hilltop town topped with a castle, and particularly photogenetic. It was bigger than we had expected, until we read that it used to be the leather capital of Italy.

The views of the coastal road.




Our first stop was San Pietro Romanesque Church, about 1 km west of town, with great views on the walk back.






Next, to a view point that directly faces the Castelo.


The Temo River meets the Mediterranean at Bosa. On the far left, first below, are the "now unused" tanneries that supplied leather to the rest of Italy.




We walked through the narrow, uphill, medieval streets to the base of the Castelo. More views.






And the scenic coastal road in the reverse direction.