Sardinia: Iglesias

On Holy Thursday we went from the north to the south of Sardinia, to Iglesias. Many people were traveling home for the holiday weekend. There were processions on Thursday evening, Friday morning, and Friday evening. While they were mostly the same, Friday saw a lot of spectators. We have grown to be used to not seeing crowds in the last couple of weeks in Corsica and Sardinia.

Iglesias (Spanish for "churches") derived its wealth from mining, as far back as Roman time. We took the bus to the coast at Nebida, walked to Masua, then returned by bus. The walk turned out to be a stage of the 500km Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara. We realized the hills around Iglesias must be rich in minerals. From the bus and along the walk, we saw a number of abandoned mining sites.

The transportation from Sassari to Iglesias: bus -> train -> train ->bus.






For Holy Week in Sardinia, church altars and chapels are decorated with flowers and su nenniri (sprouted grains).








And there are special Easter pastries, pardulas or casadinas, in shop windows. Not sure which is shown below as the difference is in the cheese fillings; both have the "small sun" shape.


In addition, these large, gift wrapped, chocolate Easter eggs with a surprise inside, were very popular. Sometimes it seemed that everyone walking on the streets was carrying one.


Most processions, including this one, Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows, were led/announced by 2 or 3 pairs of young men swinging noise-making "ratchets", followed by a solitary, solemn drummer. Check out the videos below








The narrow streets were crowded with onlookers so we circled around to the Duomo to rejoin the procession.














We were not sure at first, but there were both men and women under these enormous white hoods and "puffy shirts" outfits with black gloves.


One day we rode the bus to Nebida, walked to Masua, the site of a huge mine, and returned to Iglesia by bus. Below is the view from the Nebida Belvedere.


On the very, very scenic walk to Mausa we ran into folks walking the blue-signed CMSB (Cammino di Santa Barbara)










The mine.


Another evening, we followed the Procession of the Descent from the Cross. The narrow streets were packed with people. Check out the men with fake beards and turban-like headgear. Notice the soldiers. And look for the photos where women in street clothes are carrying the large cross.


















City Hall lit in the Italian colors; and we walk around the narrow streets of city center. Look for the blue moon rising just over the buildings at upper left.

Sardenia: Sassari

From Castelsardo, we went back to Sassari, the second largest city in Sardinia, an inland city, a university town, not so many tourists. On the Holy Tuesday and Wednesday there was a procession each evening - they were rather similar. We noticed those processions in Sardinia very much involve children, definitely a way to pass on the tradition. On Wednesday there were concerts at two different churches. I think it was the same for Tuesday.

We took the bus to Porto Torres on the coast, a rather sleepy place, though it was a Roman colony and still has remnants of a big bath and a bridge (we couldn't really see). In both Corsica and Sardinia, I found the changing fortunes of the different towns rather interesting. The top attraction of Porto Torres is Basilica di San Gavino, the largest and rather unique 11th century Romanesque church. For example:

Massive Scale: The structure is roughly 58 meters long and 19 meters wide, dominating the hilltop of Monte Agellu.

Recycled Roman Materials: The interior features 22 marble and granite columns taken from ancient Roman and Byzantine buildings.





Dual Apses: It is the only church in Italy with two apses facing each other, meaning there is no main front entrance.





Entrances: Access is through side portals, including a 15th-century Catalan Gothic main door on the south side (below).

Porto Torres is on the sea and boasts a fine Aragonese Tower (2nd below), an eye-catching 1960's modern lighthouse (3rd), and Roman Baths (4th).








Procession of the Sorrowful Madonna














Holy Tuesday Procession of the Mysteries in which 16th-Century wooden statues are carried through the streets and into the churches.
























Sun-Ling and Shadow.


Concerts