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Thursday, June 04, 2026

Crete: Heraklion and Knossos

From Istanbul (see a photo of the spiffy Istanbul Airport first below), we flew to Heraklion, Crete.

Istanbul Airport - Turkey

We arrived in Herakion in a light rain, and in the next 60 hours we had more than 10% of their annual rainfall. So we scrapped our plan to visit the archeological sites of Minoan Phaistos and Roman Gortyna.

We did manage to begin to learn about the Minoans at the Heraklion Archeological Museum (photos below) and the partially reconstructed site of the Palace of Knossos. I really struggled at Knossos. Halfway through the visit, it dawned on me - this is my first Minoan site (see photos way below). These unfathomable Minoans had multi-story buildings, making it more difficult for me to comprehend, let alone for archaeologists to reconstruct.

There was amazing stuff at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum; for example, this beautiful 2000 BC pottery..
Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

A ceramic vessel showing the Minoan Cult practice of "bull-leaping". The Minoans deified and venerated the bull.
Bull Leaping - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Ivory Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BC, Palace of Knossos, and Minoan Cult Model of a Chariot Drawn by Bulls (from Karphi).
Ivory Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BC)  - Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Minoan Cult Model of a Chariot Drawn by Bulls - Karphi - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Bull-Head Rhyton (Vessel) from the Palace of Knossos.
Bull's-Head Rhyton - Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The "Ancient Minoan Board Game" found at Knossos. Notice how the pieces at far right "fit" the circles on the board.
Ancient Minoan Board Game - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The Phaistos Disc is one of the great unsolved mysteries of archaeology. The symbols are a text in an unknown script and language.
Phaistos Disc - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Minoan Ceremonial Double Axes.
Minoan Ceremonial Double Axes - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The "Harvester Vase" was discovered at the ancient Minoan site of Hagia Triada.
The Harvester Vase - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

This Limestone Hagia Triada Sarcophagus was found at Hagia Triada.
The Limestone Hagia Triada Sarcophagus - Found at Hagia Triada - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And some painted stone reliefs uncovered at Knossos, and moved to this museum: Prince of the Lilies (1st), La Parisienne (2nd), Ladies in Blue (3rd).
"Prince of the Lilies" Minoan Relief Fresco from Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

"La Parisienne" Fresco from the Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

"Ladies in Blue" Fresco from the Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Sculpture Hall of ancient Greek and Roman statues.
Sculpture Hall - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

We stayed near Heraklion Port (1st below) and one night wandered down to the Venetian Shipyards (Arsenali - 2nd), and Fort (3rd below).
Old Port - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Venetian Shipyards aka The Arsenali - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Koules Fortress - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Then to Saint Titus Cathedral and Morosini Fountain
Saint Titus Cathedral - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Morosini Fountain - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And our short stroll ended at Veganato Restaurant with a Top Ten Tasty Falafel Wrap with Fries.
Falafel Wrap with Fries = Top Ten Tasty - Veganato Restaurant - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The Palace of Knossos is about 15 minutes by bus south of Heraklion Port. The site was "discovered" and excavated between 1900 and 1905 by Arthur Evans. His subsequent disputed restoration of the site continued until 1931.
Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Throne Room Video.
Video - Thone Room - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase (1st and 2nd below) and a courtyard at the lower level (3rd and 4th below).
Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Courtyard - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

North End of the site.
Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And finally, we returned from Knossos to find ourselves in the middle of the celebration of OFI Crete F.C. winning the 2025–26 Greek Football Cup!
Celebration the Day After OFI Crete F.C. Won the  2025–26 Greek Football Cup - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Monday, June 01, 2026

The New Istanbul: "If things were dusty 30 years ago, they are certainly glitzy now."

One of the days we took the ferry up the Bosporus to see the tulips at Emirgan Park. We were told tulips are not as good as previous years, but there were certainly very, very many. After a brief visit to the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, we took the bus to Taksim Square, and walked back to Saltanhamet. We had the same walk 30 years ago, but hardly anything is recognizable today. If things were dusty 30 years ago, they are certainly glitzy now.

As usual, our day starts with breakfast on the 6th floor.
Breakfast  With A View - Istanbul, Turkey

Below are views from the ferry.
On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

View to Sultanahmet - On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

View of Galata - On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

Rumeli Fortress - On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

And we arrive at the Emirgan Ferry Dock after 45 minutes or so.
On the Ferry to Emirgan - Istanbul, Turkey

From the ferry dock it's a short walk to the Sakıp Sabancı Museum, located in the former residence of the Sabanci family
Sakıp Sabancı Museum - Istanbul, Turkey

Sakıp Sabancı Museum - Istanbul, Turkey

Sakıp Sabancı Museum - Istanbul, Turkey

Sakıp Sabancı Museum - Istanbul, Turkey

Sakıp Sabancı Museum - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park. Not only are there tulips, but also many locals enjoying the nice weather + tulips.
Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

Tulip Festival - Emirgan Park - Istanbul, Turkey

We rode the bus from Emirgan Park to Taksim Square where we found a bench with a great view of the Taksim Mosque and ate our lunch.
Taksim Mosque - Taksim Square, Istanbul, Turkey

Then walked mostly downhill to Galata on Istiklal Avenue, checking out the architecture, and then across the bridge to Sualtahameth.
Istiklal Avenue - Istanbul, Turkey

This is the Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) arcade. Elegant.
Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The Art Nouveau Mısır Apartmanı (Egypt Apartment)
The Art Nouveau Mısır Apartmanı (Egypt Apartment) -  Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The Church of St. Anthony of Padua.
Church of St. Anthony of Padua - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

Church of St. Anthony of Padua - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

This is the ceiling of the very POSH Kubbeli Lounge in the Pera Palace Hotel. High tea is 80 USD per person. I was a little bit surprised they let us in just to look around - no tea for us. ;-)
Ceiling of the Kubbeli Lounge - Pera Palace Hotel - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The Art Nouveau Casa Botter, complete with Art Nouveau "heads".
The Art Nouveau Casa Botter - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

The Art Nouveau Casa Botter - Istiklal Avenue, Istanbul, Turkey

Istiklal Avenue ends in Galata and we walked by the iconic Galata Tower. And down the photogenic Kamondo Stairs.
Galata Tower - Istanbul, Turkey

Kamondo Stairs - Galata - Istanbul, Turkey

And across the legendary, vibrant Galata Bridge.
Galata - Istanbul, Turkey

Galata - Istanbul, Turkey

Galata - Istanbul, Turkey

Galata - Istanbul, Turkey

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