Slovenia: Lake Bohinj Part One

From Dobbiaco, we took OBB Austrian trains to reach Jesenice, Slovenia at the edge of the Julien Alps. We had wanted to head directly to Kranjska Gora, 24km away, except they are hosting a big international series of trail runs this weekend. There was not a room to be had. So, we are spending the weekend at Lake Bohinj.

Normally there is a train between Jesenice and Lake Bohinj, but there is work on the tracks this week, so we ended up on the "replacement bus". They didn't send enough buses - a few folks had to stand - plus it ran behind schedule. I'm not impressed with Slovenia so far. We were in Slovenia 25 years ago. It seems they could have made more progress in the intervening years. I may be judging them too harshly....

The upside to the replacement bus was we went by Lake Bled. We were there 25 years almost to the exact date. I wasn't impressed then, now I know it was because I saw it on a cloudy day. The lake is a completely different color in the sun. The other thing I noticed is that 25 years ago Lake Bled had been shut down for the season. This time we saw all manner of water activity: sunbathing, swimming, paddleboarding, etc. I attribute the difference to climate change. John thinks maybe there are just in general more people traveling, resulting in more activities.

Lake Bohinj is quiet and serene. We based ourselves in Stara Fuzina, just north of the lake. The village still has a traditional feel; that is, you can smell the barns. The first day we rode the train to Most na Soci where the Soca river is dammed for hydroelectric before it is joined by the Idrijca river (this post). The Soca is known for its turquoise color, and we plan to explore its upper part later in a few days (next post).

We board the spiffy RED OBB Austrian Train at Lienz.


Then change to a blue Slovenian train at Vallach.


Buying the "Replacement Bus" tickets from Jesenice to Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia


The Replacement Bus stopped in Lake Bled - an unexpected bonus as it slowly moved around the lake perimeter.


Once settled in Stara Fuzina, we strolled down to Lake Bohinj (bowHEEN) to check out the sunset.










On the way back to our guesthouse we passed a traditional hayrack.They are all over the place in rural Slovenia.


Our end of Stara Fuzina was more of a rural village than a tourist village.








At Bohinjska Bistrica Station, waiting for the train to Most na Soci.




While we were waiting the novel-to-me "car train" arrived. All the cars drove off the far end, several cars drove onto the train (first below), and the sturdy green locomotive moved from one end of the train to the other for the return trip (2nd below).




The Station Master at GROHOVO Station is cranking away.


While walking from Most na Soci Railway s\Station into town, we foraged the best tasting fig ever.


Soca River confluence.




In Most na Soci, one can see ruins of a Roman house, at least one traditional hayrack, and a vintage three-wheeled light blue Piaggio Ape work vehicle.

Italy: Dobbiaco, Day 3

This is our last day in the Dolomites. John's cold is not getting better and the weather is cloudy, so we decided to go joyriding on our Sudtirol Guest Pass. Our destination was the Pordoi Pass. From Dobbiaco we first took the train to Brunico, then bused through Val Badia to Corvara. Val Badia is a major ski destination. It has even more lifts than Val Gardena.

From Corvara, we got on Bus 472 up the Campolongo Pass, down to Arabba, then up to the Pordoi Pass, at which point we jumped off the bus, before backing out the same way. This is the same Bus 472 we took from Ortisei to the Sella Pass. What an incredible route - it connects four valleys by going to three passes.

Even though today the high peaks are cloaked in clouds, we're rather pleased with our visit. We had long looked forward to the Dolomites. It's a place of amazing scenery with amazing infrastructure. No wonder it attracts so many people. I hope this was only a reconnaissance trip for us.

Cloudy Morning in Dobbiaco as seen from our hotel room window.


Catching the Train to Brunico from Dobbiaco Station


Catching Bus 460 in Brunico.


On Bus 472 from Badia to Corvara


We twice passed through the ski village of Covara.




Just below Pordoi Pass is the striking German War Memorial.


Pordoi Pass


Roller Skier at Pordoi Pass


The clouds clear just a little at Pordoi Pass.


The Sass Pordoi Cableway / Funivia at Pordoi Pass goes up into the clouds.




On our way back to Dobbiaco we stopped in nearby San Candido to check out the "Creation Dome Fresco" circa 1250 in the historic 13th-Century Romanesque Duomo




A finally a few pics from the historic center of our home base of Dobbiaco: Parish Church of St. John the Baptist and Castel Herbstenburg

Italy: Dobbiaco, Day 2

The weather turned out to be better than the earlier forecast. We set out early for Lake Braies, a popular destination, though I didn't think it was particularly photogenic. It looked better in person. We did a counterclockwise loop, before it got too crowded. By the time we got back to Dobbiaco, we missed the bus to Cortina d'Ampezzo.

After a two-hour gap, we took the 1pm bus towards Cortina, back to Misurina. Since it's afternoon, there were only a handful of people waiting for Bus 50, contrasting our experience the previous day. This time we walked along Lake Misurina towards Bus 51 stop for Cortina, hoping to hitch a ride for Cortina. (Notes to fellow travelers: Cortina is in Veneto. Its buses are not covered by the Suditirol guest pass, but the pass does cover 445 between Dobbiaco and Cortina).

We didn't have the same luck as the day before with hitchhiking. We ended up taking bus 51 to Cortina, reaching Cortina just in time for bus 445 back to Dobbiaco. Our tour of Cortina thus was a bus tour only. The town is bigger than Ortisei, and much busier, quite a bit of construction projects going on, but I had the impression it's a place to be seen, therefore I don't think we'll be basing here for future Dolomites visits either.

Misty Morning view from the bus on our way to Lake Braies.


When we arrived at Lake Braises the rowboats were not officially ready to rent but somehow one couple was out there taking photos.




The sun was up, but not yet shining on the very still surface of the lake. Chilly!








The lake water was super clear; in fact, the combo of 1) the reflections of the green trees, rocky mountains, and blue sky, with 2) the clearness of the water was almost disconcerting at times.








We walked counterclockwise on the trail around the lake.


The first sunlight to hit the lake struck on the beach full of small rock towers/cairns at the south end of the lake


When the sun finally landed on the water, a beautiful mist flowed off the beach.


And in a few minutes most of the lake was lit.






When we returned to the boat dock, all the boats were rented; many photo sessions in progress. ;-)


There is only one road into the huge parking lot at the lake. The traffic backup (below) caused our bus to be late, so we changed plans and rode the bus to Lake Misurina.


The bus dropped us off at the same spot where 200 people queued yesterday; now just a few.


We walked along Lake Misurina enjoying the views, then failed to catch a ride to Cortina and took the bus instead.


Cortina, as seen from the bus window.