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Sunday, June 07, 2026

Crete: Sougia

One of the top activities for Crete is the Samaria Gorge walk which opens May 1st. Suspecting overhyping and we are still before May 1st, we opted for Agia Irini Gorge walk. We really had to work around the bus schedule, which runs only Monday/Wednesday/Friday. So on Monday we first took the bus from Heraklion to Chania, went to leave our big bags at our Chania hotel, got on the 13:45 for Sougia, got dropped off at the top of the Agia Irini Gorge, and started walking down.

For the first four kilometers there was a running stream, and a number of water crossings. Luckily, we survived with only one wet sock and partially wet boot. Then the water was diverted, it became a dry canyon for another three kilometers. The gorge is a super enchanting place. As a result, we went extra slow. When we finally emerged on the final four kilometer road to Sougia, the sun was beginning to set. Some time later, a nice lady picked us up and saved us a couple of kilometers of walking, and she told us all about the very striking dragon lilies. When we reached Sougia, we were relieved to find our beachfront room was still waiting for us.

Sougia is a tiny village on the south coast of Crete facing the Libyan sea. John loved it. We spent the next day walking west through the Lisso Gorge to the Lisso Archeological site. On Wednesday we walked east on the E4 a little bit before returning to Chania on the 15:30 bus, trying to rest up for more walking in Chania.

We arrived in Chania with an hour to kill before our bus to the trailhead of the Agia Irini Gorge Walk. So we grabbed a couple of super tasty falafel wraps at Falavela, and admired the snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Falafel Wraps at Falavela - Chania, Crete, Greece

Chania, Crete, Greece

The trail started out easy and well marked.
Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

But then a series of switchbacks took us down into the heart of the gorge, and to the first of many stream crossings. .
Switchbacks - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

The deepest, most narrow section was amazing, and slow going.
Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

The Gorge introduced us to the amazing Dragon Lily. First below, no flowers yet.
Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

As it was getting dark, we tried to pick up the pace, but that was NOT easy walking over makeshift bridges, and through the rocky, but dry stream bed.
Bridge -  Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

We popped out of the Gorge and still had to walk 2 kms to the main road, and 2 kms more to Sougia and our hotel. Once we hit the main road we started hitch-hiking and soon had a ride, and were in our "sea view" room at Zorbas just after sunset.
And We Are Finished! - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

View from our Room at Zorbas - Sougia, Crete, Greece

And the same view for breakfast!
View from our Room at Zorbas - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The path to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site was well marked, and we easily navigated through a small canyon.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

More Dragon Lilies. Woohoo!
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

A steep uphill led to a seeming never-ending trudge in the sun across a scrubby plateau.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Then a break for lunch with views down to the old port and the Lisson archaeological site. There is a temple, not visible from here, and a small odeon/theatre which can easily be spotted.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The ruins of the ancient temple.
Temple Ruins - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The Odeon up close.
Odeon/Theatre - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The water was very clear at the small, pebbley Lissos Beach.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The return-the-same-way walk back to Sougia.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Baby Goat - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Lissos is west of Sougia, on our last morning we walked to the east on the E4 trail to catch some great views, and more Dragon Lilies. The first view is down to Sougia, the second is the other way.
Sougia, Crete, Greece

Sougia, Crete, Greece

Sougia, Crete, Greece

And we left Sougia on the afternoon Friday bus.
The 3:15 pm Bus  from Sougia to Chania, Crete, Greece

Thursday, June 04, 2026

Crete: Heraklion and Knossos

From Istanbul (see a photo of the spiffy Istanbul Airport first below), we flew to Heraklion, Crete.

Istanbul Airport - Turkey

We arrived in Herakion in a light rain, and in the next 60 hours we had more than 10% of their annual rainfall. So we scrapped our plan to visit the archeological sites of Minoan Phaistos and Roman Gortyna.

We did manage to begin to learn about the Minoans at the Heraklion Archeological Museum (photos below) and the partially reconstructed site of the Palace of Knossos. I really struggled at Knossos. Halfway through the visit, it dawned on me - this is my first Minoan site (see photos way below). These unfathomable Minoans had multi-story buildings, making it more difficult for me to comprehend, let alone for archaeologists to reconstruct.

There was amazing stuff at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum; for example, this beautiful 2000 BC pottery..
Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

A ceramic vessel showing the Minoan Cult practice of "bull-leaping". The Minoans deified and venerated the bull.
Bull Leaping - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Ivory Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BC, Palace of Knossos, and Minoan Cult Model of a Chariot Drawn by Bulls (from Karphi).
Ivory Bull-Leaper (1600-1450 BC)  - Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Minoan Cult Model of a Chariot Drawn by Bulls - Karphi - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Bull-Head Rhyton (Vessel) from the Palace of Knossos.
Bull's-Head Rhyton - Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The "Ancient Minoan Board Game" found at Knossos. Notice how the pieces at far right "fit" the circles on the board.
Ancient Minoan Board Game - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The Phaistos Disc is one of the great unsolved mysteries of archaeology. The symbols are a text in an unknown script and language.
Phaistos Disc - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Minoan Ceremonial Double Axes.
Minoan Ceremonial Double Axes - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The "Harvester Vase" was discovered at the ancient Minoan site of Hagia Triada.
The Harvester Vase - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

This Limestone Hagia Triada Sarcophagus was found at Hagia Triada.
The Limestone Hagia Triada Sarcophagus - Found at Hagia Triada - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And some painted stone reliefs uncovered at Knossos, and moved to this museum: Prince of the Lilies (1st), La Parisienne (2nd), Ladies in Blue (3rd).
"Prince of the Lilies" Minoan Relief Fresco from Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

"La Parisienne" Fresco from the Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

"Ladies in Blue" Fresco from the Palace of Knossos - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Sculpture Hall of ancient Greek and Roman statues.
Sculpture Hall - Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Heraklion Archaeological Museum - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

We stayed near Heraklion Port (1st below) and one night wandered down to the Venetian Shipyards (Arsenali - 2nd), and Fort (3rd below).
Old Port - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Venetian Shipyards aka The Arsenali - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Koules Fortress - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Then to Saint Titus Cathedral and Morosini Fountain
Saint Titus Cathedral - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Morosini Fountain - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And our short stroll ended at Veganato Restaurant with a Top Ten Tasty Falafel Wrap with Fries.
Falafel Wrap with Fries = Top Ten Tasty - Veganato Restaurant - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

The Palace of Knossos is about 15 minutes by bus south of Heraklion Port. The site was "discovered" and excavated between 1900 and 1905 by Arthur Evans. His subsequent disputed restoration of the site continued until 1931.
Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Throne Room Video.
Video - Thone Room - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase (1st and 2nd below) and a courtyard at the lower level (3rd and 4th below).
Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Courtyard - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

Grand Staircase - Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

North End of the site.
Knossos Palace Archaeological Site - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

And finally, we returned from Knossos to find ourselves in the middle of the celebration of OFI Crete F.C. winning the 2025–26 Greek Football Cup!
Celebration the Day After OFI Crete F.C. Won the  2025–26 Greek Football Cup - Heraklion, Crete, Greece

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Crete: Sougia

One of the top activities for Crete is the Samaria Gorge walk which opens May 1st. Suspecting overhyping and we are still before May 1st, we...

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