Tunisia: Bardo Museum

The last time we came to Tunisia, the Bardo Museum was closed because of political tension. Though the overall political situation may now be worse, Tunisia is open for tourists and so is the Bardo, home of the largest and finest Roman mosaic collection in the world. It was the first thing on our Tunis agenda.

While there is no doubt as to the size of the Bardo collection, we both thought the museum at El Jem may have an even finer collection. Nevertheless Tunisia certainly has the finest Roman mosaics in the world.

On our first full day in Tunis we headed straight to the Bardo Museum by suburban train.






The Islands Mosaic is a Roman mosaic found in the ancient city of Ammaedara, Tunisia. It represents islands and cities of the Mediterranean Sea of the 3rd or 4th century CE.


Typical room in the museum = mosaics from floor to ceiling, on all four sides.


Marine Mosaics Room.




Roman Mosaic showing the personification of the "Days of the Week" with Saturn (Saturday) in the middle.


Roman Mosaic of "Virgil and the Muses". It is the most famous piece in the Bardo; that is, the Mona Lisa of the Bardo. ;-)


Previously, the Bardo building was a sumptuous palace, thus many of the exhibition rooms are exquisite themselves.






This mosaic of a typical country farm villa caught our attention.


Portion of a Roman Mosaic of Three Cyclopes: Brontes, Steropes and Pyracmon Forging Lightning. Found at the Dougga Archaeological Site.


Birds.


More Maritime Scenes including Ulysses Tied to the Mast of his Ship to Resist the Sirens.




The Triumph of Dionysus of Acholla


Video: Roman Mosaic of Many Fish in the Sea

Tunisia: El Kef

Located 100km inland, like Bulla Regia, El Kef was also a Roman colony, but remains a town to the present day. The town perches on a small hill topped by two forts, mostly of Ottoman origin. There are remains of Roman baths, fountains, and aqueducts.

Even though we were in town on a Friday,the mosques didn't seem particularly busy. We had expected otherwise. We did run into a few restaurants that were not tightly shut, but they only served a single set menu. We are beginning to think that while Ramadan iftar "break fast" in other countries may be a feast, Tunisians are more restrained, maybe like observing Lent, which makes more sense to me.

Our hotel room was above a vegetable street market and had a view towards the Fortress.




Though the El Kef Fortress (Kasbah) is free to visit, boys will be boys.


View from the Fortress to a northern section of the city wall (1st below) and a video of a similar view (2nd)




The Fortress Parade Grounds.


Video: Walking by the El Kadiria Mosque During Friday Prayers


Remnants of the Roman Aqueduct.


The tourist office was closed but there was a helpful ceramic tile map outside.


The Art Deco CIRTA CINEMA


Two views of the Streamline Moderne Art Deco CTAMA Building.




Inside the Medina.


Walking through the souks (shops) inside the medina.


The Fish Market.


The amazing arches of the Roman Baths.


John in the Medina near the Madressa.


Corner fruit and vegetable market.


View to the Fortress at Night

Tunisia: Roman Dougga

On our way from El Kef to Tunis, we stopped at Dougga, a UNESCO archeological site. The last time we came to Tunis we were not confident enough with using the louage. We are finally checking it off.

Dougga is a good size site. It has preserved public as well as private buildings. The crazy thing is villagers were living among the ruins until the 1950s when the Tunisian government created Novelle Dougga and relocated everyone to it. The best of the mosaics were moved to museums.

Without the mosaics in situ, I wasn't particularly impressed with Dougga, but I realized the significance of Dougga lies in the 2nd century BCE mausoleum, a rare example of the confluence of Egyptian, Greek, and Punic/Libyan, and bore a stone plaque (now in the British Museum) in both Punic and Libyan scripts, a "Rosetta Stone" for the ancient Libyan script.

House of the Trifolium


12-Seat Public Latrine at House of the Three Cyclops. Later in the trip, at the Bardo Museum, we will see the mosaic of the Three Cyclops that was removed from here.


Standing on the road to Carthage is the Eastern Gate: Arch of Septimius Severus




Check out the Greek Columns on the 1st level, and the 4-horse chariot on the 2nd on the Libyco-Punic Mausoleum.


The view from the Temple of Saturn.


We take a rest on the top row of the Theatre ruins.




Ourselfies at the Forum Complex with the Capitol building behind.


The Capitol Pediment depicts an eagle carrying the emperor up to godhood.


The View through the Capitol's Columns (1st below) and the iconic view (2nd below) from a spot that was a habitation until the 1950's.




Temple of Juno.


The Western Gate is the Triumphal Triumphal Arch of Alexander Severus.


The view to the surrounding countryside from near the Licinian Baths.


Licinian Baths




Another view back to the Capitol as seen from the Licinian Baths.


Walking to the exit along a field of fava beans.


Panoramic view of the site with Theatre at left, and Capitol at right.