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Saturday, September 19, 2026

Italy: Val di Funes

On our day of departure from Bolzano, the weather was better, so we went for a planned hike. The idea is to head up Val di Funes by (valley) by bus to the Zannes parking lot. Then walk a part of the Adolf Munkel Weg which is a trail at the southern base of the Odle Group, along the edge of the scree. There are numerous permutations. We opted for one going by the three farmsteads(alms)/mountain huts/refugios.

On the way back to Bolzano, we stopped in Brixen to switch from bus to train. While Brixen shared a similar fortune as Bolzano, Brixen was the seat of the bishopric and has more medieval vestiges than Bolzano, therefore more atmospheric. We could have based ourselves in Brixen.

Beginning the day at the Bolzano Railway Station. We will ride this very red OBB Austrian Railway train north to Brixen, then bus east to Zannes.
Bolzano Railway Station - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

In this part of Italy, there are many small, industrial sawmills like this one we spotted from the bus.
Industrial Sawmill - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

And more than several modern commercial apple orchards.
Modern Commercial Apple Orchard - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

At the Zannes bus stop we see some high jagged stone peaks in the distance. Woohoo!
Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

And in a few minutes the southern face of the Odle Group is right above us.
Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

At Malga Glatsch Mountain Hut we turn left towards the Odle Group.
Malga Glatsch (Glatschalm) Mountain Hut - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

View to Odle Group from Malga Glatsch Mountain Hut - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

View to Odle Group from Malga Glatsch Mountain Hut - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Fairy tale mushrooms.
Bright Red "Fly Agaric" Mushrooms - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

The trail along the edge of the scree.
South Face of the Odle Group - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

South Face of the Odle Group - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Near the Malga Gschnagenhardt Alpine Hut
Near the Malga Gschnagenhardt Alpine Hut - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Malga Gschnagenhardt Alpine Hut - Day Trip from Bolzano to walk the Adolf Munkel Trail (Via delle Odle) - Val di Funes (Villnöß valley), Italy

Cathedral of Brixen with frescoes and cloister. Look for an ostrich in the one fresco.
Cathedral of Brixen - Bressanone (Brixen), Italy

Bressanone (Brixen), Italy

Cathedral of Brixen Cloister with 14th and 15th-century frescoes - Bressanone (Brixen), Italy

Check out the Ostrich - Cathedral of Brixen Cloister with 14th and 15th-century frescoes - Bressanone (Brixen), Italy

And we headed home to Bolzano via the Brexin Railway Station (below).
Brixen Station - Bressanone (Brixen), Italy

Wednesday, September 16, 2026

Bolzano, Italy (Gateway to the Dolomites)

From Dublin we flew to Venice - as luck would have it, in the middle of an Italian train strike - and ended up spending half of a day busing from Venice to Bolzano, managing to reach Bolzano before dark. If I hadn't happened to notice the strike two days before, I don't know where we would have spent the night.

First morning in Bolzano it rained all morning. Our trip is having a rough start. When the rain stopped and the sun came out, everyone was in the streets, as if there was a festival going on. Bolzano seems rather prosperous. Having come through the Adige Valley on the bus, we could see the area has many other commercial and agricultural activities, in addition to tourism. Historically Bolzano was the trade link between the Italian speaking world to the south and the German speaking world to the north. Even though Bolzano is supposed to be more German than Italian, the highlight for me was 100% Italian; that is, St John's Chapel in the Dominican Church, modeled after Giotto's Scrovegni Chapel in Padua which we missed (needed a reservation) when we were there.

The second day in Bolzano = more bad weather. I stumbled upon a short program at the last minute. We took the bus up the Ega/Eggental valley to the beautiful Lago di Carezza with the backdrop of the Latemar Group, and had a short walk. I was so pleased - I finally felt I was in the Dolomites.

Waiting for the 4:30am Bus 24 to take us to the Dublin Airport.
We Take a 4:30 AM Bus to Catch an Early Aer Lingus Flight From DUB (Dublin) to VCE (Venice)

We Take a 4:30 AM Bus to Catch an Early Aer Lingus Flight From DUB (Dublin) to VCE (Venice)

We Take a 4:30 AM Bus to Catch an Early Aer Lingus Flight From DUB (Dublin) to VCE (Venice)

Great view of the Corbassière Glacier as we fly over the Austrian/Italian border on our way to Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE). Plus,just before we land, a view of the canals outside Venice.
Corbassière Glacier - We Take An Early Aer Lingus Flight From DUB (Dublin) to VCE (Venice)

Canals of Venice - We Take An Early Aer Lingus Flight From DUB (Dublin) to VCE (Venice)

Our flight left Dublin 30 minutes late, but lucky for us we made up 15 minutes in the air, jumped to the front of the EU immigration line by mistake (really), spotted our bags on the conveyor belt as we walked up, and got on the Flixbus with one minute to spare. The bus was mostly empty when it left the airport, but after stopping at Venezia Santa Lucia, and then Venezia Mestre, we were full.
We Take FlixBus from Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to Bolzano, Italy

We Take FlixBus from Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to Bolzano, Italy

The double-decker Flixbus headed west to Verona, and then up the amazing Adige River Valley to Bolzano.
We Take FlixBus from Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to Bolzano, Italy

We Take FlixBus from Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to Bolzano, Italy

Arriving at Bolzano Sud Railway Station, we took local bus 10B towards our accommodation. See below the view of Bolzano from 10B below.
The View from City Bus 10B - We Take FlixBus from Venice Marco Polo Airport (VCE) to Bolzano Sud Station, Bolzano, Italy

The next day we strolled around the very busy-with-tourists Bolzano. Below is Piazza Walther and the very German Cathedral.
Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Next door to the ho-hum Cathedral sits the Dominican Church. Inside is the narrow St John's Chapel with amazing 14th-century Giottesque frescoes; the figures show movement and the faces show realistic emotions. And the stars in the blue sky!
Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

"Triumph of Death " (lower right), Annunciation" (lower left)  - Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Streets in the city center were busy each time we walked through town.
Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

One day we made a day trip to Lago di Carezza at 5000 feet elevation. The skies started out sunny when we boarded the bus in Bolzano, but soon turned cloudy with drizzle soon after we arrived at the most beautiful lake. We walked the 4km loop trail and then headed back to Bolzano.
Day Trip to Lago di Carezza from Bolzano, Italy

Day Trip to Lago di Carezza from Bolzano, Italy

Day Trip to Lago di Carezza from Bolzano, Italy

Day Trip to Lago di Carezza from Bolzano, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Take-out pizza for dinner.
Pizza - Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Bolzano, Gateway to the Dolomites, Italy

Thursday, September 10, 2026

Ireland: Dublin Revisited (We Walk to Bray Head)

After Glasgow we spent two weeks in Ireland, we didn't have time to blog that part of the trip, which also happened to be the least remarkable part of our spring trip. We went home for July and August on a roundtrip ticket from Dublin. Now we are back in Dublin for one night before going to the Dolomites. As our flight arrived in Dublin in the early morning, we had time to take the suburban train to Bray, built in the 1800s that was supposed to rival Brighton, though it reminded me more of Llandudno, Wales.

We ascended the hill at the end of town. The coast walk to Greystones was mostly closed. They were fixing a rock slide; nevertheless, a very good outing. Back in town, Dublin seemed much busier than when we were here at the end of June/beginning of July. For one thing, all the university students are back, though Dublin remains underwhelming for me.

After an uneventful direct flight (with a tasty Veg Meal) from RDU to DUB, TFI Bus 24 brought us right to Dublin city center, just a 10 minute walk from our room.
TFI Bus 24 Brings Us From DUB Airport to City Center  - Dublin, Ireland

We Walk Across River Liffey Towards Our Room - Dublin, Ireland

Sun-Ling walk across Capel Street Bridge towards Sunlight Chambers with friezes by Conrad Dressler - Dublin, Ireland

As we walked from our room to Tara Street Railway Station, there was still evidence in the Temple Bar district of last weekend's UNC vs TCU NCAA football game.
UNC vs TCU Flags - Gogarty's Temple Bar Hostel - Aer Lingus College Football Classic - Dublin, Ireland

The DART train, in a retro olive card livery, delivered us to Bray (Daly) Station.
TFI DART - Bray Daly Railway Station - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

And we headed directly over to the Bray Seafront Promenade.
Bray Promenade at Bray Seafront - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Bandstand - Bray Promenade at Bray Seafront - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Bray Seafront and Bray Beach - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Soon we were walking up to the Stone Cross atop Bray Head.
Bray Seafront and Bray Beach - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

View to Bray from Bray Head - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Almost at the Stone Cross at the Summit of  Bray Head - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

After a short rest and admiring the view from the Stone Cross, we plunged/scrambled down a "rogue" trail to the Bray Greystones Cliff Walk down below, just above the Irish Sea.
View to Bray Beach from the  Stone Cross at the Summit of  Bray Head - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

View to Irish Sea as We Walk from Bray Head Summit Down to Lord Meath's Lodge on the Scenic Bray Head Cliff Walk - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

View to Irish Sea as We Walk from Bray Head Summit Down to Lord Meath's Lodge on the Scenic Bray Head Cliff Walk - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

The scramble down to the seaside trail left us energized, dirty, and tousled. ;-)
Dirty and Tousled on the Bray Head Cliff Walk after Scrambling Straight Down from Bray Head Stone Cross - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

The Cliff Walk path was closed to Greystones, bummer, but we saw a passing train as we headed back to Bray, cool, and a ferry out at sea.
This Section of the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk is Closed - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

A DART Train Passes Below -  Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

"Isle of Inisheerm" Belonging to Irish Ferries as Seen from the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

On the way back to Bray we passed an "Elvis, Metal Storm, and Vixen" trail signpost. Haha.
Elvis,  Metal Storm,  and Vixen - Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

And soon we were back at the promenade, then over the footbridge to the station.
Bray Seafront and Bray Beach - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Bray Seafront and Bray Beach - Day Trip to Bray - Dublin, Ireland

Bray (Daly) Station Footbridge - Dublin, Ireland

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