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Wednesday, November 04, 2026

Croatia: Split Revisited

25 years ago we arrived in Split on a bus from Dubrovnik. Underwhelmed by our quick look, we got on an overnight bus to Zagreb without sleeping in Split. This trip, thinking we shortchanged Split, we made a point of overnighting in Split.

Split's change in the last 25 years is astounding. Each day there are two or three cruise ships in port. The day we arrived there was a trade fair, and Macron was in town. The place was a zoo. I was in shock.

To the west of city center is Marjan Hill where there are several popular viewpoints; however, there is also a huge park with high coastal paths. We ended up walking there two days in a row, and loved it, such an oasis, such an escape!

We left Zadar just after sunrise on a green FlixBus. ;-)
Sunrise from our Apartment in Zada Dar,lmatia, Croatia

On the FlixBus from Zadar to Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The view from the bus of a picturesque small bay in the village of Bilo.
A Small Bay in Bilo Village - On the FlixBus from Zadar to Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Welcome to Spilt - Cruise ships in town!
Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Cruise Ship in Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The highlight of Split is Diocletian's Palace, constructed as a retirement residence for Roman Emperor Diocletian and completed in 305 AD. And the center-of-the-univers of the palace is the Peristyle (Peristil), the central Roman Square inside Diocletian's Palace. Most visitors enter the palace through the Underground Cellars (below).
Entrance to the Cellars - Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Then into the amazing Peristyle, watched by a 3500 years old black granite sphinx Diaocletain imported from Egypt.
Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

My only memory of Split from 2001 is sitting in the shade on red cushions in the Peristyle.
Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Walking to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower was our fav activity in Split; we did it twice. To get fueled up, we stopped at Ela's for ice cream.
We Stop for Ice Cream at  Ela's Gelateria Artigianale - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Many folks were walking to the first several viewpoints.
Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

But not as many continued to Telegrin Peak, the highest point on the hill, and with great views back to Spilt Old Town, the Adriatic Sea, and to the Stadium.
Telegrin Peak - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

View from Telegrin Peak - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

View to the Stadium - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

A chilly wind blew at the top of the newly opened Observation Tower,
Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Observation Tower - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The cruise ships are here!
Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Art Nouveau buildings in the Old Town: Nakic Palace (1st below), Sulphur Baths (2nd)
The Art Nouveau Architecture of Nakic Palace - Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The Art Nouveau Architecture of the Sulphur Baths (Zgrada Sumpornih Toplica) - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split is more quiet after sunset as the cruise ship passengers are back to their boats. And maybe the ship has pulled out of port.
Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Looking to the Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The SPAR Supermarket Inside Diocletian's Palace!
The SPAR Supermarket Inside Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Passion Fruit (L) and Pistachio (R) Ice Cream - Gelateria aMare.
Passion Fruit (L) and Pistachio (R) Ice Cream - Gelateria aMare - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The Massive Bronze Statue of Gregory of Nin (1929) by Ivan Meštrović. The statue is a local icon!
The Massive Bronze Statue of Gregory of Nin (1929)  by Ivan Meštrović  - Golden Gate- Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

(2026) Sign of the Statue of  Statue of Gregory of Nin Playing A Left-Handed Red Hollow Body Guitar - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Trg Republike (Commonly Known as The Prokurative)
Trg Republike (Commonly Known as The Prokurative) - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Sunday, November 01, 2026

Croatia: Plitvice National Park

Plitvice (PLEET-veet-seh) escaped our 2001 Croatia visit. It's one of our major destinations this time, and we were NOT disappointed.

From Zadar, we took the first direct bus to the park and came back on the last one, so we didn't feel rushed at any point. The park has 16 terraced lakes in a canyon. Water flowing down from one to another forming waterfalls. This time of the year, the waterfalls are not particularly big, but the emerald green pools are mesmerizing. Each pool is a different shade depending on the flow and depth. Plitvice is quite a site.

This is the main viewpoint in the park, just inside Entrance 1. Amazing!!! Note that the boardwalk (better seen in 2nd below) is full of people. When I first saw this I thought it was a tour group. But it's not. It's just the neverending flow of many visitors.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

The next two photos are from the last viewpoint we visited. I moved them towards the top of the post as they are physically close to the first viewpoint (photo above), but at the end of Route C.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

The park has good maps and signage to smoothly control the large numbers of people. We followed route C which is a walk, boat, and bus route (2nd below). The large tours follow the shorter routes A or B.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Route C starts at the lowest falls and pools (below) and ends at the highest.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

There are miles of well-maintained boardwalks that allow very close access to the waters.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

We ate half of our picnic lunch on the boat ride that took us to the upper falls. This is the point where Route C diverges from routes A and B and is not crowded. .
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Upper Falls and Pools.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Signs explain water levels.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

We completed Route C with plenty of time for more exploring before catching the last bus back to Zadar. So we walked up to an observation deck with a panoramic view of the uppermost lakes.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

The very sturdy bus takes us back almost to Entrance 1.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Sunset from the bus window.
Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

Bonus waterfall reflection video.
Plitvice National Park - Day Trip From Zadar, Dalmatia, Croatia

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