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Thursday, October 08, 2026

Slovenia: Kranjska Gora, Day 2

Our goal today is the Slemenova Spica Hike. During the summer season, there is a free hourly bus from Kranjska Gora to Bovec over the Vršič Pass. This time of the year the free bus still runs on a reduced schedule. The hike ascends from the Vrsic Pass, the highest pass in the Julian Alps at 1,611 meters elevation, to Slemenova Spica at 1,911 meters. One of our guide books says if you only do one walk in Slovenia, this is the one. We could not agree more. It's like we are back in the Dolomites.

On the way home we got off the bus at Lake Jasna and walked back. John felt slightly better today.

We hopped off the bus at Vrsic Pass, and our task was clear; the blue sign verifies the elevation, and the red sign points 1hr 30 minutes to Slemenova Spica.
Vrsic Pass - Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

And soon we've gained some altitude.
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Sun-Ling hates scree but makes the crossing in good shape.
Scree - Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

The sign says 55 minutes!
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

And across a forest.
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

And then an amazing view down to Ratece where we walked yesterday. Wow!
View Down to Ratece - Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Even though we are in the highest pass in the Julian Alps, the peaks are still high above us.
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Then unexpectedly, just before the Slemenova Spica Viewpoint, we crossed a dry high meadow with sheep. Lots of sheep droppings. It smelled like a barnyard. The sheep tried to eat the food of two hikers who were heating a can of beans (or something) on a small stove (2nd below). Chaos for a few minutes. ;-)
Meadow with Sheep - Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Summit at 1,911 meters elevation. 2nd and 3rd below are views down to Ratece and its ski lifts. Notice the large parking lot.
Slemenova Spica Summit at 1,911 meters - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Summit at 1,911 meters - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

View Down to Ratece - Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Panorama
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

The summit was too barnyard-like to eat lunch, so we headed down a bit.
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

And with a good lunch in our bellies we made good time down to the bus stop.
Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

Sun-Ling Powers Through the Scree Crossing
Sun-Ling Powers Through the Scree Crossing - Slemenova Spica Hike - Vrsic Pass (1,611 meters), Julian Alps, Slovenia

We got off the bus one stop before Kranjska Gora at Jasna Lake.
Lake Jasna -  Julian Alps, Slovenia

Wednesday, October 07, 2026

Slovenia: Kranjska Gora, Day 1 (And it's John's Birthday!)

After the weekend, we left Lake Bohinj to backtrack to Kranjska Gora on the other side of Triglav National Park. Now that the trail run was completed, we could get a room. Getting there was not too easy. First, we had to take a bus towards Ljubljana to connect with a bus from Ljubljana. Slovenia has bus schedules, but when the routes are so long and intercity buses also double as village buses, you might as well not have them—and be like other developing countries. I have to remember that not everyone judges countries by their public transport systems.

After arriving in Kranjska Gora in the afternoon, we rode the bus to Rateče, the first/last village on this side of the Italian-Slovenian border, to walk back to Kranjska Gora. The valley walk started on the Alpe Adria Trail, a 750 km long-distance trail through Austria, Slovenia, and Italy that is very popular with bicyclists. Around here, one of the Caminos to Santiago de Compostela also coincides with it. The trail took us by the Zelenci Nature Reserve, which looked like a wetland on the map but turned out to be pretty dry. Surely there must be more water in the spring, except for the small lake formed by the underground spring. Nevertheless, the setting is very scenic.

We veered off the trail to look at the village of Podkoren, yet to be infected by mass tourism, before plodding our own way back to Kranjska Gora. John had a hard time on the walk. His cold is still not getting better, and it was his birthday, too; however, when we went out for dinner, he still had his usual good appetite.

On the bus towards Ljubljana.
On the bus from  Bohinjska Bistrica to Radovljica to  Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Passing Lake Bled.
The Bus Passes by Lake Bled on our way to Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Streets of Kranjska Gora
Cyclists Pass Sun-Ling - Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

The bus dropped us off in Ratece and we started walking back to Krankjska Gora.
Ratece, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Holy Spirit Church, and a barn in Rateče
Holy Spirit Church  - Rateče, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Barn - Ratece, Julian Alps, Slovenia

More Ratece: Giant Cabbages and Custom-Painted Beehives
House, Garden, Cabbage!! - Ratece, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Custom-Painted Beehives - Ratece, Julian Alps, Slovenia

We loved the turquoise waters of Zelenci Natural Reserve..
Zelenci Natural Reserve - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Zelenci Natural Reserve - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Roller Skiers and Cyclists on the Alpe Adria Trail at Podkoren.
Roller Skiers on the Alpe Adria Trail at Podkoren - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Cyclists on the Alpe Adria Trail at Podkoren - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

The City Center of Podkoren and a view of the Julian Alps.
Podkoren - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

View to the Julian Alps from Podkoren
View to the Julian Alps from Podkoren - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Ostriches in Podkoren?
Ostriches in Podkoren - near Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

John's Birthday Dinner: Pizza, Eggplant, and Mushrooms
John's Birthday Dinner:  Pizza, Eggplant, and Mushrooms - Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

The Streets of Kranjska Gora as we head home from dinner.
Kranjska Gora, Julian Alps, Slovenia

Tuesday, October 06, 2026

Slovenia: Lake Bohinj Part Two

Lake Bohinj is quiet and serene. We based ourselves in Stara Fuzina, north of the lake. The village still has a traditional feel; that is, you can smell the barn. The first day we rode the train to Most na Soci where the Soca river is dammed for hydroelectricity (see previous blog post) before it is joined by the Idrijca river. The Soca is known for its turquoise color, and we plan to explore its upper part later in a few days.

After we got back to Stara Fuzhina, we set out to walk the Mostnice Gorge (below). We continued to where the trail comes out in the Voje Valley. It was a rather enjoyable walk. There weren't so many people as it was late afternoon.

The next day we found a bus route that took us 550m above the lake to Vogar Blato, then ascended another 300m to a viewpoint of the lake on a combination of wooded trails and logging roads.

After visiting Most na Soci, we arrived back in Stara Fuzina with enough time to walk the Mostnice Gorge Trail before dark. Some of the water from the gorge was diverted into a small channel centuries ago for mills, small factories, and town drinking water.
Water Channel - We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We paid 5 Euros total to walk the gorge - cash only.
Cash Only - We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

The gorge was narrow with rushing clear waters that reflected the blue sky and green trees.
We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

There were many waterfalls.
We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Not to mention Elephant Rock, which we took in from both sides.
Elephant Rock - We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Elephant Rock - We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We turned around at a viewpoint to Voje Valley.
Voje Valley - We Walked in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

And our efforts are rewarded with a beautiful view of Stara Fuzina on the way home.
Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

The next morning we hopped on the Vogar Blato bound bus to take us up, up, up the hills behind Stara Fuzina for some views of Lake Bohinj
Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

At one point the walking was sharply uphill, but not a goat path.
Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

This stone marks the side trail to the viewpoint.
Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Our Selfies above Lake Bohinj! And we spotted a paraglider!
Our Selfies above Lake Bohinj - Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Paraglider Above Lake Bohinj - Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

We followed a logging road for about half the return to the bus stop. The first part was steep, otherwise like a highway.
Sun-Ling Descends - Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Logging Road - Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Logging Road - Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Logging Skidder- Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

And eventually we joined the paved road.
Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Cheers to Stara Fuzina!
Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

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