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Wednesday, October 08, 2025

Iguazu Falls

From the Pantanal, we flew to our other major destination, Iguazu Falls. We spent the first day visiting the falls from the Brazil side, and the second day on the Argentina side. In general, best views of the falls are on the Brazil side, and the falls are experienced more intimately on the Argentina side.

Photos cannot do justice to the falls. It has to be experienced, an incomparable experience at that. In September water is considered to be at 40-50% of top volume, forming countless individual falls, very scenic. It's a good thing we didn't visit Iguazu until now. All waterfalls we are likely to encounter will seem underwhelming.

The free bus from the entrance to the falls.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

We stepped off the bus at the Cataract Hotel stop and 30 meters later ....
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

The walkway continues for about 1 km and the views keep getting better. And we can see the boardwalks on the Argentina side that we will be walking tomorrow.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Rainbow.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

More waterfalls upstream.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

There are several viewing platforms.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

After an hour or so we reached the walkway out towards the so-called "Devil's Throat".
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

The experience on the walkway is great. Everyone is having fun. There was a bit of spray, but we stayed dry. The 360 view is amazing.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

We took the elevator back up to the main path and ate our picnic lunch. More amazing views.
Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

Iguazu Falls, Brazil

We rode the free bus back to the park entrance, picked up our bags from the hotel, rode bus #120 to the border, crossed into Argentina, and took another bus to the Puerto Argentina Bus Terminal. From there it was a short walk to our apartment. Whew!
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Then we had to change money to get some Argentinian pesos to buy groceries.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

The next morning, we took a bus from the terminal to the Argentinian Iguazu Falls.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

There's a mini train to take you directly to the beginning of the boardwalk to the Devil's Throat. We did two less exciting walks before catching the train.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

The boardwalks are literally right over the tops of the falls.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Can you spot Sun-Ling (with the hat)?
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

From one of the longer boardwalks we spotted a toucan.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

On another loop we spotted nesting Great Dusky Swifts on the rocks next to a raging waterfall.
Great Dusky Swifts - Iguazu Falls, Argentina

After lunch we rode the train to the Devil's Throat Station and walked out.
Walking out to the Devil's Throat - Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Devil's Throat - Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Devil's Throat - Iguazu Falls, Argentina

And finally made our way back to Puerto Iguazu bus station.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina




















Sunday, October 05, 2025

Brazil: Pantanal Part Two - The Boat Tour

John says: The Pantanal Boat Tour from Porto Jofre exceeded our expectations and deserves its own post. We pushed off from the dock at 7:15 am, a few minutes late as there was a problem with the pilot's lunch - ;-) - and did not return until sunset at 5:30 pm.

Sun-Ling adds: While about a couple thousands of jaguars live in the Pantanal, all the jaguar tourism is centered around Porto Jofre, in the Cuiaba River and its tributaries - there are 50 some jaguars that star in the enterprise. They may be habituated, if jaguars can ever be. Nevertheless, seeing jaguars is very exciting business. We were super excited to see our first jaguar on the road to Porto Jofre. It turned out to be a very fortuitous occasion. The jaguar is not one of the usual suspects. It was the first reported sighting for that jaguar. In fact our guide Dani got to name the jaguar and have her added to the next edition of the Jaguar Field Guide. Of course, individual Jaguars are identified by the pattern between the eyes and the top of the nose.

And we're off (first below). The lodge next to ours had a dock made from old tires (2nd below). See the video (3rd) from our guide Dani (@ddanirc) of our boat speeding upriver. Woohoo!
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Dock Built with Old Tires at a Lagoon on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Northern Pantanal Wetlands Videos Courtesy of @ddanirc

A group of boats filled with camera-toting tourists means "wildlife spotted". In this case, a group of giant river otters who are fishing together.
Watching  Giant River Otters - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

SL Watching  Giant River Otters - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Giant River Otters (Pteronura brasiliensis) - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

And minutes later we came across the first jaguar of the day, hanging out in a tree, not oblivious to the people in the boats, just not caring.
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jaguar in Tree - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Jaguar in Tree - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Video: Jaguar in Tree - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Ringed Kingfisher (1st below) and Amazon Kingfisher (2nd).
Ringed Kingfisher - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Amazon Kingfisher - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

Jabiru Stork, Nest and Chicks. Check out the enormous crop of the "fishing" Jabiru in the video first below.
Jabiru Storck - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jabiru Stork - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jabiru Stork Nest and Chicks - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Jaguar #2; not so many boats at this spot.
Jaguar (Panthera onca) - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Video: John and SL with Binoculars -> Zoom to Jaguar - Northern Pantanal Wetlands Videos Courtesy of @ddanirc

More Giant Otters spotted.
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Giant Otters - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Is there a more beautiful bird than the Rufous-tailed Jacamar?
Rufous-tailed Jacamar - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

The tiny white-winged swallow shimmering in the sunlight. Thanks @ddanirc for the photo!
White-Winged Swallow - Northern Pantanal Wetlands Video Courtesy of @ddanirc

In one of the narrower channels of the river (1st below), we pulled right alongside a Wattled Jacana (2nd below) and watched it walk on top of the water plants.
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Wattled Jacana  - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Wattled Jacana  Video - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

The elusive jaguar #3, reported to be nursing one of her 2 cubs, was hard to spot in the bushes
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Mid-afternoon, the caimans came out to sun themselves with mouths open, ready to swallow prey.
Caiman - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

More giant otters. These two were more interested in napping than in us.More video of the napping giant otters.
Giant Otters - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

The giant otters in the short video below were NOT resting.
Giant Otters - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre,  Brazil

Our guide Dani spotted a jaguar #4 walking in the water. No other boats were around. Nice. We watched this jaguar swim a bit, then come out of the water to the bank, and climb onto some tree roots to rest.
Jaguar - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Swimming Jaguar - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jaguar - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jaguar - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Jaguar Video - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, Brazil

Northern Pantanal Wetlands Videos Courtesy of @ddanirc

On another small tributary we watched a Capybara Family Outing along the river (video third below).
Capybara Family - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

Capybara Family - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

Capybara Family - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

More relaxing cruising.
Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

Northern Pantanal Wetlands Videos Courtesy of @ddanirc

Full speed ahead back to the lodge at sunset.
Northern Pantanal Wetlands Videos Courtesy of @ddanirc

My Birthday Cake - Thanks Dani!
My Birthday Cake - Thanks Dani! - Boat Tour on the Cuiabá River in the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, near Porto Jofre, Brazil

On the way back to Cuiaba we saw a Yellow Anaconda crossing the road, and followed it into the bushes. Not to mention a stray water buffalo, local cowboys, and a beautiful big sky.
Yellow Anaconda (Eunectes notaeus) - Pantanal Wetlands - Cuiaba, Mata Grosso, Brazil

Water Buffalo - Pantanal Wetlands - Cuiaba, Mata Grosso, Brazil

Cattle and Pantaneiros - Pantanal Wetlands - Cuiaba, Mata Grosso, Brazil

Pantanal Wetlands - Cuiaba, Mata Grosso, Brazil

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