Sardinia: Santa Teresa Gallura

The shortest ferry from Corsica to Sardinia landed us in Santa Teresa Gallura from Bonifacio. Santa Teresa Gallura wasn't founded until the 1800s, and much of the buildings date back to only the 1960s' tourist boom, and it shows. The town is almost the antithesis of Bonifacio. Santa Teresa Gallura is as mundane as Bonifacio is dramatic. In fact, we could hardly think of less interesting Italian towns we have overnighted in, maybe the couple of towns near Rome airport. The thing it does have is the sea. In the summer, the town's population swells tenfold.

Originally we had ambitions of walking around Capo Testa. The strong winds kept us near town. We ended up scrambling among the granite rocks below town.

A sunny day on the ICHNUSA ferry.




Looking back to Bonifacio from the ferry.




First below, Santa Teresa Beach as seen from the ferry. Second, a video taken from the beach.




We took a short walk along the rocky coast.




We first spotted Longonsardo Tower from the ferry (1st below), then again on the coastal walk (2nd), then from the Belvedere (3rd).






City Center


A cat at the ticket window.


The Thursday Fruit and Vegetable Market.

Corsica: Bonifacio

From Ajaccio, we continued south to Bonifacio at the southern end of Corsica where we took the ferry to Corsica. Even if it were not for the ferry, we would have visited Bonifacio for its dramatic setting; perched on white limestone cliffs by the sea.

As our luck would have it, all ferries for our planned crossing day were canceled due to high wind, and the half day before and after as well. We had to put our heads together and make some quick decisions. We cut our Bonifacio visit short, and crossed on the second to the last ferry.

During our 20-hour visit, we walked the Phare de Pertusato trail, then scurried to the sunset point. We had a morning sunrise stroll, and we even stumbled upon polyphony singing practice (maybe?) in preparation for Easter.

In the end, the 20km crossing was rather calm. We spent the whole 50 minutes on the deck, enjoying the sea (1st below). I realized 15 years after our near Titanic moment on the Navimag I can finally feel ease again on a boat.



The buses from Ajaccio to Bonifacio were uneventful even though we had to stop for sheep.


Our first sighting of Bonifacio. Wow!


And then the walk up to our hotel at literally the second highest point in the city.


The walk to Phare de Pertusato starts with some beautiful views of the town citadel, the harbor, the limestone cliffs, and the sea.








And the views get better as we get closer to the lighthouse. Eventually there is nothing between us and the coast of Sardinia except the sea.










Sunset.








The streetlights come on as we turn for home, and approach Saint-Dominique Church with their Palm Sunday images on display (2nd below is the 6th Station of the Cross). And a choir is practicing - maybe Sardinian Chanting.








The Citadel walls are flood lit with purple lights. Hmmmm.


The Bell Tower of the Église Sainte-Marie-Majeure with the half-moon in the sky behind it.


Before catching the 9:00 ferry, we headed out to catch some just-after-sunrise views of the Citadel.

Corsica: Ajaccio

From Corte, we took the train to the southwest to Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, birthplace of Napoleon. There was so much Napoleon reference, John thinks they should just rename the city "Napoleon". While most of the businesses in city center are open, the tourist oriented pedestrian street is mostly closed.

We walked to the west of town a couple of times. First, the beginning of Sentier des Crêtes in Bois des Anglais, and enjoyed views to the city. Later, we took the bus to the headland, Pointe de la Parata, where the Sentier des Crêtes ends, and walked around the Pointes, and the beginning of Sentier des Douaniers, and enjoyed views of the Sanguinaires Islands.

SL et moi arrive at Gara di Corti; and soon we are underway.






We get our first view of the Ajaccio Ferry Terminal as we arrive on the train.


We walked up to the Grotto Napoleon above Place d’Austerlitz for some great views back to town, and the sea and mountains beyond.




On the way back we passed the monumental Grand Hotel Continental, Lycee Fesch, and the modernist, so-called Twin Buildings.






Ajaccio Cathedral - Where Napoleon Bonaparte was baptized on July 21, 1771.




Model ships abounded inside the Church of Saint Erasmus, aka Fishermen's Church,


For many years, trendy seaside resort towns in France have typically had a casino. The one in Ajaccio has just been refurbished.


The market hall in Ajaccio with signage in Corsican.


One day we walked a loop in the Bois des Anglais (English Forest) with great views of the sea and town, and we took the best selfie of the trip so far






Lunch at Green Farmer's.


We love to visit library reading rooms. Below is the reading room at Bibliothèque Fesch, founded by Lucien Bonaparte. The entrance is guarded by two lions.




And as SL said above: Later, we took the bus to the headland, Pointe de la Parata, where the Sentier des Crêtes ends, and walked around the Pointes and the beginning of Sentier des Douaniers, and enjoyed views of the Sanguinaires Islands.